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Best 1:25 AMT '66 NOVA - 1988, 1998, or 2013 release?


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Hi,

Please help regarding 1:25 scale 1966 NOVA model kits.

Which one would you believe is the better kit? The 1:25 AMT NOVA slot car kit, hood fit to body opening, was so bad, could not finish it. My girlfriend bought the AMT model kit for me, so I must finish the car, keeping her happy, helps keep me happy.

So, need to get another 1966 NOVA 1:25. Below are four examples, there are more . . .

AMT KIT NO. AMT 6749, 1:25 1966 Chevy Nova, scale plastic model car kit from 1988

AMT KIT NO. AMT38554 1966 Resto Rods Chevrolet Nova, scale plastic model car kit from 1998

AMT KIT NO. AMT636, 1:25 1966 CHEVY NOVA PROSTREET, scale plastic model car kit from 2013

AMT KIT NO. 772-121966 Chevrolet Nova Bill Jenkins Grumpy's scale plastic model car kit from 2013

If you have some experience with the above AMT 1966 NOVA model kits, or other AMT Chevy NOVA kits. Would like to hear from you.

So, what are the better "fitting" hood, to body NOVA kits, 1988, 1998 or 2013? The AMT 1966 Chevy NOVA model kit I had a terrible hood fit to body experience, was injected in 2013. This same kit also had less than sharp, droopy like rear tail light moldings as well.

I assume 1988 would be best, from a tooling standpoint. Am I correct in that assumption? Or, did AMT create newer molds for different year releases?

Which AMT Chevy NOVA model kits are better?

Thanking you in advance for your help . . .

Jas

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They are all based on the same tooling. If you want straight sotck, either of the first 2 would be fine, I have the 2000 release, the Millinium issue, kit 30269, and the tooling is as good as the 88 or 98 versions.

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They are all based on the same tooling. If you want straight sotck, either of the first 2 would be fine, I have the 2000 release, the Millinium issue, kit 30269, and the tooling is as good as the 88 or 98 versions.

Consider this: Every issue of this AMT kit is from the very same tooling, as done way back in 1987-88. While a model company might add something new in the way of smaller parts, or "delete" a part here or there (by gating off the runners to that/those parts, the basic kit tooling almost never changes.

There was one change in the kit, however--I believe for the first reissue, and that was to eliminate the "molded-in" inside rear view mirror from the windshield--that after a chorus of complaints and the demise of a good many JoHan '62 Olds F85 kits, which windshield fit the Nova very nicely and didn't have that faux pas with the rear view mirror.

Art

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Yes,but the problem with the hood to body fit isn't affected by that, I've had releases from'98,& all the issues since & haven't had a serious problem with the hood fit on any of them that couldn't be repaired fairly easy.

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midnightprowler, "Same tooling," seems you are saying tooling carried over. As such, wouldn't 1988 might be a better go? Less wear and tear, so to speak. Have noted 2000 edition as well, just didn't include, post was long already.
Art Anderson, Okay, you mentioned mirror issue. Still, does it mean the 1988 tooled kits would have better details, and better hood to hood opening body fit? Mentioned wind screen. Isn't mirror correctable? Glass fit, is it okay?
Horsepower, Guess mine was perhaps an "operator issue," since the model I messed with was so out of "square," could never get the hood, and hood opening to even come remotely close to fitting. Just wasn't wide front, narrow rear hood issues. Was that the car hood opening was so warped, no way to get all of it to cooperate. Rear fender tail light portion was not crisp on either side, plastic there was droopy at the top of the fender. That said, it was correctable.
Chuck Most, Mirror again. Wouldn't the earlier release be better tooling, in that the molds wouldn't have suffered as much wear? Mirror, seems you guys feel the 1988 release to be, sort of untenable. I'd take better hood to body hood fit opening in lieu of correctable mirror condition. Does the mirror business interfere greatly with the glass? Appears you feel the mirror business, is sort of a show stopper.
Really appreciate your help, and take on the AMT 1966 NOVA molding issue. I just really want the best injected plastic model outcome. Fit of hood to hood opening. How about 1998 release, would that be the best go?
Thanking you all in advance . . .
Jas
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Well, like I said, my kit is from 2000, and everything is fitting fine, no flash,etc, and no rear view mirror on the windshield as in the 88 release.

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Did a red street stock back 'round '90, very nice I thought - till the side view mirror broke off at a show and my superglue bottle puked up CA all over the driver's door in my misguided attempt to fix it. Should really grab another body shell and restore it...

The latest reissue with the Grumpy Jenkins markings has those desirable added parts - steel wheels, and a bench seat with a new rear seat to match the upholstery pattern - and as far as I can tell, there isn't much it gives up in molding quality for the age of the tool.

If by droopy you mean the sink marks on the top fender surfaces just adjacent to the taillight openings, that's a characteristic going all the way back to the very first release, and it's variable from model to model. Also, the windshield was corrected mid-run with the '88 release, so there are some '88 boxes out there without any scat molded in the mirror region. Far as hood fit goes, I don't recall huge issues with my original, but I'd need to dig it out of storage to jog my memory on that one.

One characteristic of many builds I've seen that's entirely logical, but not optimal, is that the molded detents on the tops of the inner fender aprons are used as the forward locating stops at the cowl for the body shell. This tends to position the body too far forward on the wheelbase, and there is room to fudge the body backward a bit for better wheel centering in the fender arches. Also, you might want to fill and re-drill the mounting holes for the front suspension uprights; they tend to go in with too much negative camber, otherwise.

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midnightprowler, Seems the most any release is usually okay. Operator issues may be at fault. Glad your 2000 kit was fine. DirtModeler, Nova's are indeed cool rides. Once I land on the right release, if indeed it matters, will take me a long time to build, assuming I can actually build the model. Have very severe case of CTS, carpal tunnel syndrome in my left, dominate, hand. Pain is exquisite, makes doing anything most difficult, especially model building. When I use my left hand to do anything, these days, pain comes back like a storm. Chuck, Sorry to hear about CA flub, stuff, as they say, happens. Grumpy's, more goodies to be had, have noted that when at, say, eBay. Droopy, okay seems to be endemic in the release, too bad, since will make that area something to have to mess with. Won't be using the model's chassis. Still, appreciate the notation. Nice when modelers talk about model issues. As before, replies like these, are greatly appreciated, vand helpful . . .

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Recently built the blue plastic AMT #636 (2013) Nova Pro Street. Used Easy Off on quite a bit of the chrome because there were a few flaws in the plating; small portions of the plating were missing from the inside of the rear wheel hubs while some plating was very thick and obscured part details. Rear taillight demarcation is clean and crisp. Break out your favorite primer and this kit will not disappoint. Great source of hot rod parts!

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Great source of hot rod parts!

No lie there! I've been using that pro street chassis under everything BUT Novas for years...

IMG_57871-vi_zps43be2e1b.jpg

438E73B1-vi_zps6054733c.jpg

8-vi_zps34d9b00a.jpg

The Rambler actually had the wheels and tires from the Nova when I first built it, too- I added the wheels later. I think it needs a paint job too, since I've gotten way better at laying down paint since I first built it.

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I would avoid the older issues and just get the latest release.

With the way they crammed everything in the little box back then and the age of the kit, you can expect some serious warping issues with the old releases.

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One thing remember about the original issue of this kit, was my hood would not lay down flat with the stock air cleaner in place. I've been told by other builders of this kit, you just have to leave the air cleaner off when displaying it with hood closed. Other than I thought the kit was pretty good. I don't remember if mine had the mirror molded in to windshield or not. Have to take a look. I hope not.

Uncle Scott

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A little late ... had to go west, some family stuff . . .

Mr Dedo, Appreciate the post, glad you liked the 2013 car, Nova Pro Street, have seen this kit, hot rod parts, nice . . .

Chuck Most, Very nice threesome you have there, thanks for sharing. Interesting, the Nova chassis works so well for you . . .

fumi, Interesting, would have thought older release would have had crisper details. Often notice how crisp JoHan models are from way back when. Assume Chucks F85 is a JoHan model.

Bob Ellis, Ironically, the bench would be preferred, will be using metal wheels, and rubber tires, from Sakatsu.

unclescott58, Yeah, that mirror business has been raised previously about the older kit. Seems the 1988 kit had the mirror condition. From what I've gathered, it appears release date is not the big of a deal. Seems the production worker's pace may be just as important, as in cooling time, and like issues.

Some have said Grumpy's is a nice kit, have about decided to do this one, don't need the hairy scoop, this car is to be a more modest street rod.

Anyone have a take on the droopy top portion of the rear fender tail light panels? On the model decided to toss, there was a rather certain amount of plastic that didn't get up into the mold. To make a crisp body portion for the chrome taillight pieces to affix too. Or is this common? Since the bezels are fairly prominant, want them crisp, tight to the body.

My real bail out on the white 1966 Nova AMT model was the atrocious hood fit, it wasn't close to square with the body. Moreover, the end portion of the pointy front fenders to receive the chrome headlights, bumper bar, grille, was literally not there. Besides, the front fenders were not right, one went up, the other down. I'm a decent builder, and there was no way, to correct all those issues.

Anyhow, hope the next kit is far better. Some guys said, if the blue 2013 car is a mess, I can get new replacement. Is that true?

As before, appreciate the help . . .

Jas

Edited by rex
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