1934 Chevrolet Master 5-Window coupe.

[landman]

Just a few minutes at the bench tonight. Removed the engine and the X-member. I think I can do the proper K-member. Now if only I could find my styrene!

[charlie8575]

Very nice job on the 1:1 and the model. I'll watch this with great interest.

Charlie Larkin

[lowglow]

Nice project I used to have a 1934 Chevrolet Junior 4dr Sedan Hot rod (and yes I fitted a small block Chev V8 in it) Can't wait to see this one progress

[landman]

Hi Chris, there is a little of New Zealand in mine. The glove compartment door is from New Zealand. Bought on eBay.

[rustybill1960]

I am liking it

Thank You for sharing

[charlie8575]

Just for curiosity, the US/Canadian/down-under Chevies are pretty much the same car, correct?

Charlie Larkin

[Danno]

Nice.

[lowglow]

Hi Chris, there is a little of New Zealand in mine. The glove compartment door is from New Zealand. Bought on eBay.

Ah Cool

Just for curiosity, the US/Canadian/down-under Chevies are pretty much the same car, correct?

Charlie Larkin

Yes I believe so

[landman]

Charlie8575, there are some subtle differences between Canadian and American cars that most people wouldn't notice unless looking at both at once. For example, the luggage racks, dash woodgraining and spare tire covers are different. But yes, you are correct in saying that they are pretty much the same.

[lowglow]

My sedan had the luggage rack and spare wheel cover as on the right side photos and the dash the same as the left photo but right hand drive.

[landman]

Those are the Canadian version, my car and the fully grained dash.

[landman]

Couldn't find any of my plastic so I measured the frame and x-member to order the right size.

The Ford doors are 7/64" longer. Now this is where you guys come in. Do you think it would work if I sliced 7/64 off the roof to shorten it?

Also the top of the door of the Chevy is curved. What would you guys do to make that fit.

? Fill in the blank with sheet plastic or shape the bottom of the Ford window?

[landman]

I think I still want one of those R & R bodies to get the shape of the windshield and rear window. Are they still in business? No answer to emails or phone.

[charlie8575]

I think I still want one of those R & R bodies to get the shape of the windshield and rear window. Are they still in business? No answer to emails or phone.

Ray Parson died about a year ago, and from what I can gather, there has been no recent production.

However, all is not lost.

Star Models, which can be contracted via www.resinrealm.net is R&R's major dealer, and Steve will sell you one if he has it.

Charlie Larkin

Edited July 3, 2014 by charlie8575

[1930fordpickup]

I think you need to make the door on your diecast match the 1:1 you have.

[DrKerry]

But before any of this work can take place, I have to clean this up!!!!!!

Um, That's messy???????

[fractalign]

Better late than never, I finally put up a photo of one of my own versions.

Edited July 4, 2014 by fractalign

[landman]

I think you need to make the door on your diecast match the 1:1 you have.

Edited July 5, 2014 by landman

[landman]

I quoted Andy in post # 40. the quote shows but not what I wrote in. Here it is. Andy, that is what I am planning to do. I'll likely fill the gap with putty over a plastic backing. However I'm open to suggestions.

[landman]

Another thing that needs to be addressed. The diecast's front suspension is a beam axle on leaf springs.

The actual car has "Knee Action" hydraulic suspension. It looks like this. It contains both the springs and shock absorbers and is filled with oil.

[landman]

So I started taking measurements off an actual unit to attempt to recreate them in 1:24 scale. Wish me luck!

Who would have thought I'd use some of my woodworking tools on a model?

[landman]

On 7/3/2014 at 12:55 PM, 1930fordpickup said:

I think you need to make the door on your diecast match the 1:1 you have.

I started looking at how to do this. It has to be shortened lengthwise. that means sectioning the roof and taking a slice out. I'll attempt that later when I feel braver. As a first attempt at filling the gap above the door. I attempted to make a teeny sliver. A lot of work and will need much filling & sanding.

Also removed the door hinges from the Ford roof. The Chevy's are on the front of the doors.

Edited January 19, 2021 by landman

[brewsterg6]

Hey Pat, Great to see you on the model cars forum as well! (Pat and I are both regulars over at vcca.org)

If I were you, and was going to cut that roof, the place to shorten the length would be to cut at about the middle of the roof insert. You don't want to mess up any of the corners on the roof insert, or the corners of the windows. You're also going to have to put vent windows in too. An idea for getting the top to fit would be to look at how the 3 in 1 AMT '36 Ford is put together. It has an inter-changeable coupe roof/ roadster cowl that is cut along the same lines as what you are looking to do. The only problem is that you'll have to file down the metal doors. You only get one shot at getting that right! Another thing… measure the door and the gap behind the rear of the door and the rear fender. I think you'll find that the front edge of the door is in the right spot, and the rear edge has to be moved back. That may screw up your rear side window. That frame is different, not only because it is a standard, but also because it has the X member for an open car. Great job on getting the correct dimensions for your frame. That Danbury Mint model has extremely good details too. It may be easier to paint your real coupe to match it!

Edited July 6, 2014 by brewsterg6

[MachinistMark]

gorgeous car! My grandfather has a 34 Master Cabriolet and used to have a 34 Standard 2 dr (sedan)

[brewsterg6]

Hey Mark… Burt is a great guy! Tell him Bruce from the VCCA says hi! We have a picture of the hood ornament from his car that my wife took a couple of years ago in Flint hanging in our front hall...