1934 Chevrolet Master 5-Window coupe.

[landman]

The hood on the 1:1 has bright trim along the louvers. I suppose I could have BMF'd them directly on but I don't trust myself to cut them straight. So I added some very thin strips to provide a bit of relief and an edge for the knife.

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[talon63]

Incredible amount of excellent work going into this. Sure to be a eye-catcher when compete.

[landman]

There is paint on her. Somehow there is something terribly wrong with that molding below the windows. Do I rip it off and try to straighten it or do I try to apply putty to subdue it? Or do I throw the whole thing against the wall?

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[Draggon]

The rest of this is coming along so well, and you've put so much work into it, that it would be a shame to not remove that molding and do it over. 

[landman]

The molding is pulled, along with some paint. The body is upside down in the Purple Bath. I hope to get away with stripping just the upper part.

[Foxer]

It's all looking good!

I would think about a size smaller half round on the under-window molding after looking back on the 1:1.

[landman]

Back to square one. Time to remedy two mistakes.

1- Fill the valley/depression between the metal body and the plastic roof. Then the molding will sit level and straight.

2- Listen to Foxer and use a thinner half round.

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[alan barton]

it's always a brave step to have to go backwards when you have reached this stage.  But hey, that body swage mark would have screamed at you every time you looked at this model, and you would have always shown it to people as -"yeah, I'm pretty happy with it EXCEPT for the door lines".  So you did the right thing, painful as it is. (I never was good at going backwards myself!) 

Could I suggest that when you go to reapply the trim, just glue the straight middle section of the door first, let it dry, and then gently curve each end up to it's appropriate location. This will give you a greater chance of success than starting at one end and working along the model - the pressure of the original curve, say at the cowl, will fight you to the end!

I have been watching this project from the very beginning - I always wondered why no-one did a 34 Chevy and I got to speak to Ed Sexton at the 2010 Toledo NNL and suggested to him that it was a very neglected model. It could be a great series like the 32 Ford kits and there is NO competition from any other manufacturer. 

This model is a credit to you Pat and I look forward to the finished project.

Cheers

Alan

[landman]

Here is  Round 2 to use  a familiar expression.

 

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[landman]

I think this is an improvement. Thank you Mike DeRagon and Alan Barton for the tips.

The diecast's headlight buckets were painted as it is a Standard. My 1:1 is a Master with chromed buckets. So I chromed the buckets.

 

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[Eric Macleod]

This continues to be an excellent bit of craftsmanship.  You are correct, it's tough to do a model well of your own 1:1 cars.

[Lovefordgalaxie]

It's being a long haul, and congratulations on not letting frustration to get the creation of this car stopped. 

One thing is bothering me on the last pictures: The vent window frame. Don't it have to be parallel to the back of the door? It looks like it's tilted forward. The glass would not be able to be lowered. Saw plenty of vent window frames tilted BACKWARDS, but I don't think it's the case with this vintage of Chevrolet.

[landman]

On 4/20/2017 at 5:53 AM, Lovefordgalaxie said:

It's being a long haul, and congratulations on not letting frustration to get the creation of this car stopped. 

One thing is bothering me on the last pictures: The vent window frame. Don't it have to be parallel to the back of the door? It looks like it's tilted forward. The glass would not be able to be lowered. Saw plenty of vent window frames tilted BACKWARDS, but I don't think it's the case with this vintage of Chevrolet.

You are absolutely right Tulio. If you go back to Saturday's post you'll see why, it is the one where I reglued part of the window frame, crookedly of course. I'll see about remedying that. Thanks for pointing it out.

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[landman]

I had to redo one of  the hood louver trim pieces so I reshot the hood last night. The top was good, would have been better separating the side panels and shooting them individually.

 

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[landman]

Restripped the hood. the trim strips I had added didn't like the purple stuff so I redid them. This time with half round instead of flat stock. Reputtied the body as well.

 

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[Foxer]

That window molding looks very much to scale and I know it's tough doing it again. I have done the same many times and always feel great after.

I keep looking at the hood sides ... those 3 simple strips just make it pop!

[mod3l Lover]

      Hey Pat,

I'm so glad your back on this one!!  Sorry you

are having issues!

   The early Chevrolet line is not really very

available in model kit form. I wish that Revell

would jump on this problem and make us one.

  I guess even Round 2 would be ok also!

 

        David S. 

[mod3l Lover]

I keep looking at the hood sides ... those 3 simple strips just make it pop!

    That's so true, it would be a great add on for even a

Ford kit from that era!!

     David S.

[landman]

Well folks, this is as good as it'll get. 

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[Eric Macleod]

Looks great and will look even better when you get all the little accessories added. I look forward to seeing it as a whole. I really admire your willingness to start over and five it another go. Well done.

Eric

[landman]

Started adding the pinstripe and the foil.

Decided to clear the fenders before adding the running board rubber......Back to the strip tank. Or can this be sanded and reshot?

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[landman]

"Chromed" the  hood handles. Installed the wheels & hubcaps to the spare tire covers. Finished the hood foiling. Added the grille and rad cap to the shell.

Painted the roof insert.

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[landman]

Stripped the fenders.

Added hood handles, trunk handle, rear  and quarter glass.

After a couple more rounds of touch ups, the wheels should be ready.

Edited February 1, 2021 by landman

[espo]

It looks like your Clear paint was to "hot". Maybe see if the supplier of the body color coat offers a clear that would be compatible.  

[landman]

It looks like your Clear paint was to "hot". Maybe see if the supplier of the body color coat offers a clear that would be compatible.  

I am pretty sure this is what happened David. The body color was supplied by the same store who supplied the paint for the 1:1, so I assumed it was automotive paint and used an automotive clear. The rest of the car will be cleared with acrylic.