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Posted

The top surface on the hood ornament appears to have missed the polishing treatment on the tooling. I think I can correct mine by sanding smooth, and some BMF.

Posted

The trim by the rear skirts looks & feels deep enough to paint & bmf, if it's a concern, you could rescribe the lines a little deeper.

Posted

The trim by the rear skirts looks & feels deep enough to paint & bmf, if it's a concern, you could rescribe the lines a little deeper.

Agreed.......I've foiled parts with less definition before.....

Posted (edited)

How you fix the rear trim is fine guys. I'm still wondering if one need to?

Scott

In my humble opinion the answer would be no, depending on a person's ability and comfort level with BMF, hope this helps.

I'm not the greatest with the BMF, but I would go with the model asis, and my thinking is it would turn out okay.

Edited by thatz4u
Posted (edited)

This "rough" texture many have bellyached about is nothing. Seriously guys- prime and sand, like you normally would! You'll only run into trouble if you want to leave the body unpainted. ^_^

^Please allow me to clarify this statement. I haven't seen any real "bellyaching" on this forum about it- a few people who've voiced concerns and wondered if it would be a problem, which is totally understandable. But elsewhere on the internet I've seen people throwing a fit because they can't see their reflection in the plastic. Rest assured, though, it's a non issue!

The two '54s I have both lack blemishes of any kind in the chrome- no worries there so far.No flash or terribly visible mold seams on any of the plated parts either, which seemed to be an intermittent problem with the '52 and '53 kits. No sign of it here yet.

The only trim to really worry about are the "Hornet" scripts on the front fenders. They stand far enough off the surrounding surface, the problem is that there is a mold line which runs very close to them- use caution removing this mold line, as you may damage the scripts. The "HUDSON" lettering on the hood is finely done. Those could be detailed by foiling the bare plastic, then priming/painting over the foiled lettering. Knock off the paint with the edge of a toothpick between coats. The fender scripts could be done this way as well. Other than that, detailing the side trim, stone shields, and the rest should be a relative cakewalk.

Both the fender scripts and hood lettering are supplied on the decal sheet, so you can just zap them off and use the decals if you don't want to bother with detailing the engraved lettering, as I did on mine.

Edited by Chuck Most
Posted

As I said in an earlier post, I removed the "texture" with an older worn 3200 grit sanding pad, this issue is really a non-issue, the 54 Hudson is a great kit. I say buy it, build it & enjoy, it will turn out as good as your talents & abilities allow.

Posted

The only trim to really worry about are the "Hornet" scripts on the front fenders. They stand far enough off the surrounding surface, the problem is that there is a mold line which runs very close to them- use caution removing this mold line, as you may damage the scripts.

Don't have my copy, so don't know how close the parting lines are, in relation to the scrips, but what I usually do when sanding, is to put some black electrical insulation tape over the area which has to be protected.

Posted

Chuck I really like your mild custom '54 Hornet. I have a chopped '53 going. I was debating on getting the 54 until I saw yours. Now I can't wait until it comes out, time to breakout the saws.

Posted

Do all of the parts have a texture to them or is it just the body and in some instances the chrome?

Posted

Just the body and top of the hood (it's molded with a mulit-part mold like a body so they could get the lettering on the front, the front part is polished.) I didn't notice anything on my chrome tree, but I didn't really look for it. It's like they sandblasted those parts of the tooling instead of polishing it. It's not bad, just odd.

Posted

Just the body and top of the hood (it's molded with a mulit-part mold like a body so they could get the lettering on the front, the front part is polished.) I didn't notice anything on my chrome tree, but I didn't really look for it. It's like they sandblasted those parts of the tooling instead of polishing it. It's not bad, just odd.

Actually not sand-blasted. That "texture" is from the tool-cutting process, which is no longer done by milling cutters, but by a process called "Electro-Discharge Milling". This is a process, done in a bath of non-flammable coolant, by a minute pair of electrodes, which emit very tiny, hot arcs against the steel, literally burning away bits of that to create mold cavities.

]

Art

Posted

Micheal- the '54 is already out. You should be able to get it in any shop or online. :)

Thanks Chuck, I'll be keeping my eyes peeled for this.?

Posted

Got one today. I was looking at the contents and noticed no instruction sheet part break down. Has anybody else have this issue? It has the color sheet with colors but no assembly instructions.

Posted

Got one today. I was looking at the contents and noticed no instruction sheet part break down. Has anybody else have this issue? It has the color sheet with colors but no assembly instructions.

Is it blank on one side? Mine's one big sheet with 3 folds printed front and back.

Posted

Nope! I can scan one for you tomorrow at work if you want me to.

Please. I can use the 53 sheet but it looks like some new parts for the 54. Thank you so much.

Posted

Please. I can use the 53 sheet but it looks like some new parts for the 54. Thank you so much.

Pretty much the only difference between the '53 and '54 kits, besides the body & hood will be the chrome tree (pretty self-explanatory there), instrument panel and perhaps a few other very visible parts. The underpinnings, and assembly sequences will be the same as for the earlier Moebius Hudson kits. That said, a note to Moebius should get you a replacement instruction sheet.

Art

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