Latest Build: Tony Nancy's 1963 22JR AA/Dragster

[Doctordarryl]

I wanted to build this kit for many years. I could not finish it when I was a child because I lacked the skills and patience to build it. It is a well engineered kit but is fiddly with a ton of small parts. My skills have improved somewhat from when I first tried to build this kit so I gave it go. I am still stuck in the 60's dragster theme and already started another one (Swamp Rat VIb - the one that broke the 200mph barrier at Island Dragway in 1964).

Here is a detailed description of this build.

Kit: Revell Tony Nancy 22JR double kit #H1224:200, 1/25^th scale

Builder: Darryl W. Peters

Body: The body panels were cleaned up of very light mold lines. The body was wet sanded with a 4000-grit polishing cloth, washed, and dried in a dehydrator at 110° F overnight. The injector scoop was assembled with IPS Weld-On #4. The scoop and body panels were sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer and dried in a dehydrator overnight. The inside of the body panels were sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal and dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. The inside of the body panels were masked with 3M Blue Painter’s Tape then the body and scoop were airbrushed with two wet coats of Tamiya TS-76 Mica Silver, cut 1:1 with Dupli-Color lacquer thinner, using an Aztek A470 airbrush at 35psi with a 1mm (yellow) nozzle. The painted parts were dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. Dzus button fasteners on the body sides and cowl panel were simulated with photoetched large screw heads from Model Car Garage. The kit decals were cut out and placed into warm water before applying them to the body panels. They were positioned and blotted with a piece of clean dry chamois and the body panels were then placed back into the dehydrator for 24 hours. The body panels were gently washed with warm water and dish soap to remove any decal glue. They were rinsed with warm water and placed back into the dehydrator for several hours to dry. They were then airbrushed with two wet coats of Testor’s Wet Look Gloss Clear, cut 1:1 with Dupli-Color lacquer thinner. Before the second clear coat flashed off, the paint jar was filled with straight Dupli-Color lacquer thinner and a wet coat of thinner was airbrushed over the parts to level the clear and yield a high gloss. The cleared parts were placed back into the dehydrator and allowed to dry for 48 hours. The body panels were lightly wet sanded with an 8000-grit polishing cloth followed by rubbing out with Novus Plastic Polish #2. The panels were polished with Turtle Wax Clear Coat and given a final clean with Novus Plastic Polish # 1. Two gauge pods from Detail Master were added under the rear bodywork in the cockpit. The body panels were assembled to the chassis using super glue. The fire wall was drilled for a hydraulic throttle line and glued to the frame. The windshield was dipped in Future and after drying was attached to the body using Future.

Frame: The front axel, radius rods, tie rod, and steering arm were stripped of chrome using Purple Power cleaner, rinsed, and dried. The front axel parts were assembled using IPS Weld-On #4 and redone by airbrushing Alclad II Chrome over Testor’s Gloss Black. The shaft of the steering arm was replaced with 1mm OD stainless steel tubing. The rear axel was assembled with Weld On #4 and squeezed to fill the joint. Once dry, the rear end seams were sanded smooth and the rear end was sprayed with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum followed by Testor’s Dull Coat. The rear end cover was sprayed with Model Master Stainless Steel Metallizer. The frame was assembled using IPS Weld On #4 while mounted on a Micro Mark steel plate with magnets holding the chassis sides to square up the chassis. After the frame was assembled and dried, it was sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer and then dried in a dehydrator for 24 hours. It was then airbrushed with two wet coats of Tamiya TS-14 Black and placed back into the dehydrator overnight. The throttle, steering wheel, and clutch pedals were sprayed with Tamiya TS-30 Silver Leaf. The steering wheel rim was painted with Tamiya NATO Black and the kill switch was painted with Tamiya Flat Red. The seat was assembled and sprayed with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black. The seat belt decal was from Colorado Decals (DCC24007) with Simpson logos from Scale Auto Details. The front wire wheels were machined aluminum and PE parts from Machined Aluminum Specialties. Parts box motorcycle front tires were used. The kit rear wheels were stripped of chrome and redone by airbrushing Alclad II Chrome over Model Master Classic Black. The contact patch of the kit slicks was sanded with a coarse sanding stick. Valve stems were made from fine black insulated wire. Machined aluminum fittings from Detail Master were used on the main fuel lines. The parachute pack was sprayed with Tamiya TS-6 Matt Black. A cord was added along with a “Remove Before Flight” banner from an old IPMS Nationals decal set.

Engine: The kit’s Plymouth 426 Wedge engine was assembled using IPS Weld-On #4. The assembled block and heads were sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer. After drying for 24 hours, the block and heads were sprayed with Tamiya TS-49 Bright Red. The freeze plugs were simulated with Model Master Brass Metallizer. All chrome engine parts were stripped of kit chrome using Purple Power cleaner. The oil pan, valve covers, exhaust headers, assembled blower, and timing cover were airbrushed with Alclad II Chrome over Model Master Classic Black. The Enderle Barn Door injector was assembled and drilled for fuel lines and a throttle before it was sprayed with Tamiya TS-17 Gloss Aluminum. The intake manifold was sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal. The blower snout was drilled to accept a machined aluminum pulley from MAS. The blower side panels were painted with Model Master Aluminum Metallizer. The timing chain cover was drilled to accept an MAS blower drive pulley and a resin cast Enderle fuel pump from SAD. The fuel pump was sprayed with Tamiya TS-29 Semi-Gloss Black and the bolt heads were painted with Model Master Aluminum Metallizer. An idler pulley bracket was made from aluminum flashing and an idler pulley from MAS was added. The blower belt was from MAS and part number decals were from SAD. The magneto was scratch built from telescoping pieces of K&S aluminum tubing which were assembled with super glue and polished with a piece of 8000-grit polishing cloth. A tan colored cap from a Morgan Automotive Details magneto was used with a magneto top decal from SAD. The bellhousing and transmission were sprayed with Model Master Stainless Steel Metallizer. A hydraulic throttle actuator was scratch built from thin wall 1mm stainless steel tubing, drilled 0.040 inch hexagonal Plastruct Styrene rod, and a strip of printer’s aluminum sheet with black insulated wire as the hydraulic line. A photoetched throttle linkage from MAS was attached to the injector rod and linked to the hydraulic throttle with thin wire. The shop rag stuffed into the scoop opening was made from a piece of cotton Tee shirt painted with Tamiya Flat Red.

Figure: The figure was a modified Tamiya Rally Mechanic. It was assembled with IPS Weld-On #4. The seams were scrapped with a fresh #11 Exacto blade. It was thgen sprayed with two wet coats of Tamiya White Fine Surface Primer. After drying in a dehydrator for 12 hours, the body and cap were sprayed with Tamiya TS-15 Blue. The boots were painted with Model Master Aluminum Metallizer. The hands and head were painted with Testor’s Flesh. The painted parts were dried in a dehydrator for 12 hours. A Simpson logo was added to the front right of the fire suit. The figure was then assembled and sprayed with a wet coat of Testor’s Dull Cote clear. The feet were pined to attach the figure to the base.

[1930fordpickup]

Nice work.

[Danno]

Beautiful.

[cobraman]

Looks great !

[Brett Barrow]

Very cool! Great model, great pictures, and great write-up. But where's the figure you mentioned?

[Danno]

Very cool! Great model, great pictures, and great write-up. But where's the figure you mentioned?

Maybe he's already off for the long holiday weekend.

[jbwelda]

beautiful build of like you say a fiddly kit. I mean to get into this set of cars sometime soon, with the reissue out it makes a great parts kit too

jb

[TooOld]

Very , very nice !

It looks like age and patience has paid off .

[DumpyDan]

Very nice, don't see this one built very often, well that what I figure anyway. LOL

[Mike Kucaba]

Nice work and I've seen yours close up a few years ago. Darryl likes to put figures and nice display bases when he shows his builds. Somewhere in a magazine article there was pic of this car after it had been lengthened and a later model Hemi installed.

I think it was a R&C where they were featuring icons of the past.

[Daddyfink]

Nice and sharp!

[Doctordarryl]

Very cool! Great model, great pictures, and great write-up. But where's the figure you mentioned?

I skipped that picture. Here is the display base and figure.

[MikeBoyle]

Excellent build and write up on what it took to assemble.

[Chris White]

beautiful work

[peekay]

Although not much into dragsters, I've always liked the look of this one and you did a particularly fine job on it.

[slusher]

Excellent build..

[Helix]

Cool

[dragcarz]

Very nice build

[ChrisR]

Looks great!

[Terminator-Fox]

Fantastic!!!!

[PappyD340]

OUTSTANDING!