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Posted

Well…I tried the Caswell Chrome Copy electroplating system on a sample piece that was soldered together because I wanted to make sure the plating would adhere to the solder. The directions say it would stick to the brass, as well as a host of other metals, but I wanted to be sure. It appeared to be working but not with a uniform coating so I kept at it by leaving the part in the solution longer. After a minute or so, I noticed little black floaties in the red solution. After taking out the piece and examining it, I found the coating was peeling off. This is going to take a bit more experimenting and practice. It has to work better than this.

 

Stay tuned.

Posted

Brad.... which plating kit from Caswel are you using. I was looking at one of their electroless nickle sets myself. Basically putting in in a bath of solution heated to a certain temp.

Posted

Brad, check out my earlier "reports" on how I used the kit and my experiences.  I think it will help.  I only use tix SILVER solder so I can't speak to the "soot" experience on the solder itself other than it's happened to me too but I've been getting better at it with practice and get fewer "soot" moments.  Keys I've found are to move the piece in the solution rapidly back and forth and don't get it too close to the electrode or use too much solution.  It only takes a minute or less to start getting the process working on very small parts.  The other thing I did that they recommend is to heat up a cup of hot water and then to heat the solution as well to almost boiling.  Dip the piece you want plated in the hot water first and let it warm up for a few moments then put it in the hot plating solution while moving it around rapidly.  Makes a big difference I've discovered.  A little bit of experimentation and I'm sure you'll get the hang of it and good results.  But you might want to change to silver solder like I use as the joints as you've seen in the pics I've posted come across as one and the same.  If I can be of any other guidance/assistance, please don't hesitate to ask.  I just did my brass battery tray and it turned out pretty sharp. Hope this helps.  Cheers, Tim

Posted

Chris - I have the Plug N' Plate Brush Plating System although you can also immerse your small detailed parts. More experimentation is necessary.

Tim - thanks for the info. I've been using rosin core solder 60/40 so I need to get some of this silver solder you and others speak so highly of. Once I get that in order, I'll try the hot water and heated solution directions you shared. Where did you find this info because its not mentioned in the instructions? I also watched their online instructional video and he didn't mention it either.

 

Thanks for your input fellas. Back to the proverbial drawing board.

Posted

Hi Brad,  inside their pamphlet they state that the surface of the material to be plated should be warmed up for better results.  And they mention the plating solution will perform better in a "warmer" state.  So through experimentation and a bit of web search, I came across the method of using clean boiling water that I dip the part into to warm the surface while I hook up the electrodes to the container of plating solution.. By the time I heat this stuff in my microwave (don't tell my wife) and run to the hobby room, it cools off a bit so it's just very warm to the touch at that point.  The water doesn't effect the process at all.  I do NOT boil the plating solution however as I have no idea if it might cause bad things to happen...I only heat it up till I see the 1st bubble or so form and then take it out.  Hook up the electrodes and begin immediately the process.  Last suggestion, use just enough plating solution to cover the part in while you dip.  My parts are so small that I use what could be described as the diameter of a small paper cup and fill it up as far as necessary to cover the piece during the process.  You'll get soot if you're too close to the electrode or use too much solution.  A little more practice & experimenting and I know you'll get it.  Cheers

Posted (edited)

Hi Brad,

I hope you don't mind me giving in some info as well.

As long as you're experimenting, you may want to consider the degree of shine that you've applied to the joints, both the brass and the solder.  I've done electroplating and still have a unit (in mothballs though) and we always try to make the same degree of smooth and glossy shine to the object(s) being plated.  I've done no nickel plating per se. I can attest to warming the bath up too.  More professional units have built in heating elements.  Metals involved conduct heat well and it's generally not so much the high temps that are favorable, but the fact that all objects in the bath had the same warmed up temperature.  Of course if the manufacturer recommends high temps for your particular unit, then by all means.  I would say though both metals of a joint should have a good, and equal shine.  Adhesion issues appear when the metal is not smooth.  If scratch marks are visible from manipulation, then the metal is not smooth enough.

Also, some plating solutions need to have the metal objects pre-treated, some even require submerging the objects in acid.  Then another solution to neutralize the acid left on the piece.  Then it goes into the plating process.  This is just meant as some insight into the plating process,  above all, clean and free of skin oils and as clean as possible.

Michael

 

 

Edited by 10thumbs
Posted

 

I hope you don't mind me giving in some info as well.

 

 

Absolutely not Michael. I can certainly use all the help I can get. My biggest challenge at this point is finding the time for some extended bench time. Seems if I don't have a couple of free hours, I don't even start.

Posted

Brad.....Dont worry to much about bench time......Seems as though non of us Zonies are getting any....to dang hot! Paint dries before its even out of the airbrush...glue dries even before your fingers can stick together....but Hey the 90's are coming!  Then it will be to cold to be outside doing yard work or home maintenance.  So there will be plenty of bench time 4 weeks from now!

Posted

I might as well chime in too. WHAT THE HECK BRAD!!!???!!! We have to resort to talking about the weather to get an update? "Las Vegas weather today will bring partial clouds with a slight chance of rain in the Henderson area. Otherwise it's a chilly 107 degrees ........"

I know some great time management books, but I haven't had an opportunity to read them yet.

 

Posted

I know some great time management books, but I haven't had an opportunity to read them yet.

 

I don't have the time to read any of those. I know, I really need to get some bench time in. I have the desire but not the time it seems. I'll just have to get the other exhaust done this weekend. The tubes are cut and bent and I'm on my second flange since the first one's holes weren't aligned perfectly.

The weather here, you ask??? Hot with a slight chance of hotter.

Posted (edited)

Finally got my laptop back after a month, a week and three days in the shop and its second hard drive in three months. Now I can get back to the bench.  LOL

Edited by gasser59
Posted

I've got all four of the tubes cut, bent and cleaned up for the right side exhaust pipes. Since I used cheap solder and the electroplating doesn't seem to want to stick, I think I'll just glue these with CA and Alclad them. That's my plan anyway. 

Posted

Hey Brad, first I want to thank you for the custom Braille battery decals you made up for me.  They look great and will look sharp on the batteries I've no doubt.  That was a nice offer on your part and I wanted to acknowledge it "publicly".   Sorry to hear about the solder/header electroplating issue but try it on some other brass part you might fab yet.....I just don't want to see you give up on it as it does work and it makes a pretty cool addition to a build.  If you think I can be of any further assistance, send me a PM please.   Cheers, Tim

Posted

Brad... is there anywhere close by you that you could get some silver solder?? I am not sure if Hobby Depot carries it or not. Heck maybe radio shack does but I don't know where there are any more of them around. They recently closed the one that was closest to me. I know you can get it from Micro Mark but ordering it defeats the purpose I know its a little more expensive but maybe worth a shot to try for the parts you want to plate. I use a 60/40 solder myself and I think I may have to pick up some silver solder for  some joints that I know I would love to try and plate one of these days.

Posted

The fairly new True Value store up the street has it. I haven't bought any just yet since I didn't use it on the left side pipes, I saw no reason to use it on the right side pipes. I've set aside some extended bench time tomorrow to get back to this dilemma.

Posted

Brad.... that is awesome buddy. I can't wait to see them in Alclad. I am so reqdy for it to stsrt coolong off so we can start painting again here.

Posted

Well, no Alclad painted last night. Just too humid here in the NW part of the valley and its not any better today. Just wish it would rain and get it over with. We can certainly use it.

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