Old Nasty Posted August 19, 2014 Posted August 19, 2014 BEAUTIFUL!!! Takes me back to the old days of classic muscle cars.
dbbycreations Posted August 19, 2014 Posted August 19, 2014 WOW ,, what fantastic detail on motor and underneath !!
Art Laski Posted August 19, 2014 Posted August 19, 2014 There's no criticism to be had here, this thing is flawless! Incredible, awe-inspiring work. -Art
bobthehobbyguy Posted August 19, 2014 Posted August 19, 2014 You do some amazing work. Your knack for scale realism is unreal. Keep up the good work.
Codi Posted August 19, 2014 Author Posted August 19, 2014 Guys, what do I say at this point other than thank you for all of your kind sentiments and responses to my builds. It's been a blast doing them but I get great satisfation in knowing that you know what you see and that you truly appreciate my efforts. Art, I want to say thanks for you comments on all 3 builds. You've been building for a while now and I certainly respect your opinions/sentiments too. For those that are coming to appreciate the old school stance, that's good too. Slammed is the way of the day now and I can do that too I assure you, but old school nose up stance is something a bit different and I always liked that too as a kid. Lastly, here are a few pics of the chassis pieces right before I began the final assembly process. To finish a build it takes me about 2 months of actual assembly time to put the sub-assemblies together. I refuse ot rush at this phase as it can screw everything up in a hurry. We all know how hard that is since we get excited to see the finished product. I've expanded my reserves of patience regardless of what my 2 little girls think. I picked the seat frame shot as you never will get to see the time/effort that went into these simple frames/supports but they looked so good in aluminum that I wanted to be sure to share them. Most respectfully, Tim
blunc Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 hey man, your inner door handles are on backwards. just kidding. the builds you're posting are awesome, proof of what can be done without a lathe or end mill.
MADDOG Posted August 20, 2014 Posted August 20, 2014 (edited) Holy freaking cow! This is amazing! I just love the outstanding craftsmanship abilities you have! Edited August 21, 2014 by MADDOG
carcrazy19 Posted August 23, 2014 Posted August 23, 2014 This is one awesome looking Mustang. I like the the color, and great detail. Nice job.
10thumbs Posted August 23, 2014 Posted August 23, 2014 Hello Tim, Once again juat a wonderful model. How could anyone critize this detail. I asked on the 33 Willys build about the front suspension, what size nuts and bolts. Thanks, i have the proper sizes zeroed in. Question: I'm really enthused about the A arms and spindles. Do you use a self made jig or something of this nature for the construction? Also, would you think on a 1:25 model, just about any hot rod or drag car, the same suspension size and type would interchange? In other words, how much would you have to change for a different model? Thanks again, Michael
Codi Posted August 23, 2014 Author Posted August 23, 2014 A sincere thank you to each of you following the thread and I welcome the opportunity to answer your questions. For Michael, When doing a given suspension I fab and or gather those major pieces that I want to do include on the build. Especially the engine, rearend and wheels and tires. Then depending on what "flavor" of suspension I want to build I start laying it out very simply on a piece of plastic. You can see from my 33' Willys post on FOTKI that they're is a lot of notes written in detail on the plastic itself (look closely and you'll see a lot of those notes scribbled or crossed out too) Based upon those major components going in....I then lay out wheelbase and most importantly the stance I want to achieve. Everything is then derived from those simple dimensions layed out on the plastic base. You'll see on the site how I do simple front and rear axle posts/supports to keep the ride height locked in. Dave (COMP1839) does it to perfection with his angled milling plates but I'm not at his level. Check out his photobucket site for his method too. Mine is very basic but it works for me so far. Wheelbase is established left to right and length obviously on a car. Each car I build is different. But don't get hung up on a jig etc. It's not as daunting as it would appear. I DO however keep my tolerances as tight as possible and check them constantly throughout the build. 1/64" is what I strive for. Granted, when it comes to final assembly, it will can be challenging cause things simply "move around" during the building process itself. Did I answer your question(s)? If not, I'll be happy to try to clarify. My biggest advice is just delve in and enjoy the process. After you get 1 or 2 under your belt, it's actually easy & FUN! Tim
PowerPlant Posted August 23, 2014 Posted August 23, 2014 Lots has been said already... All I can say is, I'm in awe! That's one wicked mustang
Harry P. Posted August 23, 2014 Posted August 23, 2014 Obviously the amount of work put into this model, the craftsmanship, the attention to detail, the scratchbuilding skill, etc. is first rate. Very clean, almost surgically precise... that's not easy to do, especially at this scale. So I agree with all the superlatives, but... if there's one thing that sort of stands out to me, it's the fact that in real life this car wouldn't be driveable, at least not on real roads with real cracks and real potholes, because there is just about no room for the rear wheels/tires to move up and down. They would be constantly hitting the wheel openings, and it would get pretty annoying for the driver to be constantly scraping the rear tires on the bodywork. Slightly narrower rear tires, that were completely tucked in behind the fender flares, would have been a better way to go. I know, it's only a model, it doesn't have to "work." But making a model plausible in the "real world" is a goal I strive for, so those wheels just sort of jumped out at me right away.
Codi Posted August 24, 2014 Author Posted August 24, 2014 Hi Harry, your point is correct and I agree with it. When I did the stance on this car it had a 2 to 3" scale gap between the top of the tire and it was maintained throughout the build. During final mock-up & assembly, that gap shrank to 1" (trust me,there is a gap all the round on both sides but I acknowledge it is snug). After a bunch of fiddlin' with it, I accepted that it was going to be as you see it and finished the build. I didn't want to bother with adjusting the fenders or swapping out wheels/tires either. I DO however remember as a kid riding in hot-rodded muscle cars that my friends somehow had the pleasure to "own" (drive to and from school) and half the guys stuffed big tires in to the point that they rubbed every time you even hit a hump in the road or small pothole. But it didn't matter because we were "cool". Cheers to all, Tim
geetee66 Posted August 24, 2014 Posted August 24, 2014 Wow, Tim! You have got some real skill there, buddy! This is such an impressive build. It has so much realism. Worth all the sweat and cussing...! I wish my builds were even half as good as this. Truly awesome.
playzwtrux Posted August 24, 2014 Posted August 24, 2014 Really nice build. thanks for sharing and inspiring
LokisTyro Posted August 25, 2014 Posted August 25, 2014 That's one exceptional build. I'm thinking of writing a love song about it.
Codi Posted August 26, 2014 Author Posted August 26, 2014 Thanks fellas for your comments. I'm back to the bench now and I'll have something to share again in the near future. Cheers, Tim
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