CHARLIE ALLEN Dart F/C - Hobby Room Construction - Update 7/14/15

[Nitrozilla]

Two steps forward, one step back. Heads up Paul. On the down side, the glass didn't work for painting. I should have pulled the tape while wet and transfer it to plastic or something. I pulled the tape dry and more stuck to the tape than the glass.

On the alternate tentacle, I got the winch done except for decals. It will look better on the hauler bed where it belongs.

The dolly casters are glued together. The excess is for paint purposes, then will be trimmed. Just starting on tire side 1. Touch up, then the flip side. The reason I got silver on black was from laughing so hard. You know, you're in the Zone, your thoughts wander and then an idea hits you that's so mind blowing you do the Evil Laugh? It's something exceptionally cool about the casters that I won't reveal until they're ready.

Later tonite I'll cut some more strips, then shoot in the morning.

Until then, there's these things........

[vintagedragcrazy]

Hey joe I saw you were using photo etch bolt heads I got some plastic ones that are put out by meng the company that made the ford truck anyways they come molded on a flat piece and you just slice them off with an axacto and glue them on they work real nice and they have a bolt head on one side and a nut with the bolt sticking out on the other and they are not that expensive and come in lots of different sizes just an idea that worked real good for me.

Vince

[Nitrozilla]

Vince, can you give me a link? All I'm finding are models and accessories in 1/35th.

[John Teresi]

Joe......"WOW" this looks AWESOME!!!!!!.......can`t wait to see this fimished

[johnbuzzed]

Vince, can you give me a link? All I'm finding are models and accessories in 1/35th.

Go to the Ming website (just Google Ming), look around until you find "supplies", click on that and you'll see a bunch of stuff, including the hardware. Your build is looking good; should be really cool when it's done.

[vintagedragcrazy]

Hey joe the shop I deal with gets his stuff from Stevens international if you go to their web site under model kit then to meng products they are numbers MGK-SPS4 thru MGK-SPS9 they have six different sets with some having washers and such I got both the large and small and they run $8.99 a sheet and there are quite a few of them on each sheet I just slice them off a small dab of jet glue and I stick the center with my exacto knife an set it in the glue they look real nice when they are painted over you can't even tell that they were not molded there. I think you would like them and I think they look better than just a photo etch bolt head.

Vince

[Nitrozilla]

The outpouring of help on this is uber kewl y'all. It might have helped if I wasn't so zoned at 1 a. m. that I searched for "Meng photo etch bolt heads." Thank you all.

I ventured into the land of Munimula, or in layman's terms, Aluminum. I made a new spoiler, headlight covers and a plate for the chute spring. Next will be five "riveted" strips for the windshield frame.

The single piece below was just a test. Nothing is glued in place yet.

I also made new pinstripes, painted gold on glass, then transferred to plastic to dry overnite.

I'm taking a small break tomorrow to do lunch with a friend, incorporated into a hobby shop run. With any luck I'll find the Meng goodies there. In the meantime..........

[Codi]

Better be careful Joe, the "metal" can be really addictive. Glad to see that you're having fun with this build even with the challenges it recently threw at you. I've no doubt it'll be very sweet when completed. Cheers

[Nitrozilla]

Better be careful Joe, the "metal" can be really addictive. Glad to see that you're having fun with this build even with the challenges it recently threw at you. I've no doubt it'll be very sweet when completed. Cheers

It's a funny thing, but my mindset of how I approach and execute a build is changing bit by bit. After I get into a house in June, first I'll go crazy airbrushing everything in sight. After that I get a lathe. I have zero experience operating one of those puppy's. Thankfully I know a couple of guys that I can mercilessly annoy when I run into trouble.

As far as metal addiction goes, I'll stop short of having adamantium injected like Wolverine.

[Nitrozilla]

Looks like the premier of this build will have to wait until after GSL. Sob

On the up side, the dolly tires are done and only touchup needs to be done to the axles and steerable wheels. That's right, steerable wheels.

On the down side, I let the paint cure for 5 days before masking the hauler ramp and it still received a massive overdose of tape marks. I have one chance to save it before stripping it. A week or so ago, I painted a sheet of Papillo decal paper red. I plan on picking up some tracing paper for templates tomorrow and seeing if I can make 3 working decals for it. I've never used this paper before, but anything has to be better than the Testors paper that curls up on contact. If that doesn't work..........

Keep your fingers crossed.

[Chris in Berwyn]

What sort of tape are you using? There is no need to tape the big areas. You can use paper over them, then just use tamiya or frog tape to seal the edges.

[bobthehobbyguy]

Sorry to hear about the paint problems. What paint are you using? How long are you leaving the tape on for?

[Nitrozilla]

I'm truly puzzled by this folks. The only thing that is not a common denominator is that the paint, Tamiya TS-8, dried fine on the resin Dart body and the plastic Deora body, but the ramp is made from Evergreen sheet.

As far as the tape goes, I tried Frog tape previously and it leaked. I used Tamiya tape on the whole project. After the first problem, I used basic blue painter's tape from 3M this time. Both Tamiya and the blue did the same thing.

Time - wise, the tape was on for 3 days. Day 1 was taping. Day 2 was paint. Day 3 was removal.

I'm going to give the big decal I mentioned a try. After that, who knows???????

Thanks for the input guys.

[Nitrozilla]

You are The Bomb Diggity, or is it Bomb Giggity? That would be so kewl Paul. So you only painted the roof? Brilliant.

However, I changed the rear spoiler so decals weren't an option for me.

We'll see what today brings and I'm so stoked that GSL is so close now.

[bobthehobbyguy]

I'm truly puzzled by this folks. The only thing that is not a common denominator is that the paint, Tamiya TS-8, dried fine on the resin Dart body and the plastic Deora body, but the ramp is made from Evergreen sheet.

As far as the tape goes, I tried Frog tape previously and it leaked. I used Tamiya tape on the whole project. After the first problem, I used basic blue painter's tape from 3M this time. Both Tamiya and the blue did the same thing.

Time - wise, the tape was on for 3 days. Day 1 was taping. Day 2 was paint. Day 3 was removal.

I'm going to give the big decal I mentioned a try. After that, who knows???????

Thanks for the input guys.

Don't think the issue is related to the evergreen. What is your process for painting.

Did you do a heavy coat or a bunch of light coats? Sounss to me like the paint was still too soft.

[vintagedragcrazy]

I try to get that tape on and off as quick as I can moest of the time I'll untape it as soon as the paint looks dry and just be very careful not to touch it

Vince

[Chris in Berwyn]

Soooo I have been told that the right time to wait to remove tape is the amount of time it takes to clean your airbrush! So I tried it, to pretty good effect. I was using Testor's enamel, but I think you could be waiting too long. Hopefully some experts will weigh in. Probably worth checking some back issues of your favorite model car magazine to see if any painting articles provide guidance on this.

[Codi]

Joe, the 3 fellas that made suggestions above are giving you excellent advice. From what I've read and tried, you should start removing the tape in 20 to 30 minutes after you sprayed your last coat. Just enough time to allow it to set a little bit. I think the glue from your tape is having a reaction to the paint as it's beginning to gas out. At least that makes sense based upon all the research that's available on the forum. Letting the paint gas out before applying a second coat is critical if using enamels in particular and also lacquers. If you use a dehydrator, you can let it "cook" for 8 to 12 hours and then let it set a few days (at least I do, but I'm VERY cautious) and then tape and spray the next coat. Paint is just a bear to get right. I wish you luck and have nothing else to offer but to slow down your process in one regard (gassing out between coat) and speeding up (when removing your tape). Undoubtedly, you'll get others that have different experiences which are likely true as well. But someone painting in Arizona is going to get a different result than someone in Penna. like myself. The weather does play a part too......you might want to think about the paint conditions (heat and humidity) on the day(s) you painted the truck. Cheers

[vintagedragcrazy]

I just painted a 1/16 charger funny car body on Saturday with krylon paint and masked the grill and bumper today I used tamiya tape for the edges and blue painters tape for the large areas shot the testors one shot diamond dust silver on and ten or fifteen min. I took the tape off and had no problems with tape leaving anything and that's how I usually do it i don't like leaving tape on any longer than I have to most anytime I've left the tape on overnight it has left glue spots. I also want to mention I am not a professional painter just learned by trying different things.

Vince

[Nitrozilla]

Thank you all for every word of advice. I never in a billion years would have thought leaving tape on that long would be a problem.

It's usually my impatience that gets me in trouble, not the other way around.

Paint and clear and polish have always been my weak point. I'm fixing that in a month, but I sooooooo wanted this to be done for this weekend.

Thanks again all.

Edited April 27, 2015 by Nitrozilla

[Ken Gilkeson]

I use blue painters tape and wait about an hour to peel it, never a problem.

[jwrass]

Joe,

First, your build is coming along really nice with great subject matter!!! I love it!!!!

My two cent on tape tracks. I have been doing 1:1 custom paint for 40 plus years (see profile) It's not unusual for me to do multiple tape outs the same day on many projects. Unfortunately tape tracks will happen, tape tracks are related to the Murphy's law family. I always try to keep my film thickness to a minimum, paints have plastisizers and resins in them, the more material you but down the more plastic you put down, giving you a perfect surface for the tape to attack the finish. I have used every tape out there and they all do it some are just a bit more aggressive than others.

By looking at your photos it appears that you have quite a bit of material on the body which may work to your advantage, I would wet sand the tape tracks out or flatten the surface the best you can without sanding past the clear and into the color coat. Being that you use a non catalyzed clear you can reactivate (to a degree) the clear that is already on the body by re-spraying clear, when you recoat put the coats on fairly wet the clear will soften the previous clear and the old and the new will bond together and flow and flatten ( you may have to do this a few times! Sand, Spray, etc) the worst that could happen is that you have to throw it in the pond but it's worth a try to save it.

Here are a couple of what I call best practices for successful tape outs.

1) Lay down just enough color to get the coverage you are looking for.

2) Spray two medium wet coats of clear to protect your paint.

3) Tape and spray right away! Meaning: Budget your time so that you can do tape outs, spray paint and remove tape as soon as you have your colors down.

4) You can dull your tape and still get a crisp line by placing your tape on clean tight woven cotton fabric (like T-shirt material) pull it from the cotton and then apply it to the substrate.

5) Remove tape asap!!! When you reach the color you are looking for stop spraying. I remove tape pretty much after I am done with the color! Many times the paint is still wet! Not for the faint of heart! Always try to pull your tape off at 180 degrees to the surface so that the tape has a sheering effect vs just yanking the tape off. When you place your tape down to cover areas to prevent over spray try to stack it so that it comes off with one nice even pull vs picking and poking. Example: When I tape off flames I layer the tape so that I can pull the tape from the inner throat of the flame to the tips in one single pull.

In summary You cannot completely eliminate tape tracks when you are working with fresh paint. The more time you have to wait the less likely you will have tape track problems. Also keep in mind not all paint formula are created equal some have more plastisizers or softer resins in them. Some colors are more prone to tape tracks than others.

I hope this helps now and in the future.

Peace Jimmy "RASS"

[vintagedragcrazy]

Lots of good info in that post jimmy like I said too get that tape off and even worse if it sets or gets wet then you got problems but lots of great work going on in this build and boy it's aggravating to have problems at the end. Keep on it cause it's going to be awsome when it's done.

Vince

[10thumbs]

Hello Joe, sorry to read about your dilemma and your frustration. Considering all of the steps needed to finish a model, the paint gives me the most worries and I'm usually scared to the bones about getting color on something. I have lots of respect for good paint jobs.

Your work looks excellent, no way I could even attempt this level, you'll get it right.

Michael

[Nitrozilla]

I can't express my gratitude enough for all of your excellent help everyone.

Funny story. I went to Hobbytown to look for the Meng nut & bolt heads and other miscellany when low and behold I spot a bottle of Novus 3 Heavy Scratch Remover, nowhere near where it should have been. It called to me, it beckoned me to try it. I already had Novus 1 & 2 with no previous need for the Big Guns.

For the most part, it worked like a champ at bringing the paint down to an acceptable level. I've been working it with #3 and #2 for the last couple of hours and it is promising. Honestly, there may still be some minor defects, but sponsor decals will solve much of that. If that's cheating, then so be it. I'm going for the big picture here.

I'll give it another round of light polishes, but I have to be very careful because the red I'm working is trying to transfer to the silver. I found that doing a clean water buff and dry between applications has fixed that. I'll finish with the #1 even though it's plenty shiny now.

It still won't be done for GSL, but it will make a better presentation on the "In - Progress" table. Save me a spot Chris.

Speaking of the aforementioned nut and bolt heads, I did find similar items from True Detail, including some spiffy looking connector fittings.

Again you guys, forever grateful for sending me down the right path. There is a light at the end of the tunnel and it's the flashes from folks taking pictures of it in Salt Lake. Truth be told, that's all I'm really into it for even if it was in competition.

Before......

After .......

Edited April 28, 2015 by Nitrozilla