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Posted

Took my very old build 1936 Ford five window, and did some fixing and painting.

The objective was to represent a 1936 Ford with about 6 or 7 years of age. Did the job by looking at pictures of my grandfather's cars. He was a carefuller owner, and his cars were always in good shape.

I did some weathering, and included early 1950s licence plates.

Anyway, here she is.

Hope you guys like her!!!

15450386930_9faeaa49af_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15449848718_622f07d928_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15449331139_dbae1f7925_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15449995987_dac5a3dfe4_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15015803073_008d6e67f0_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15449854448_3f81a433f1_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15015805133_9a0b3c8477_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15449338029_51c21987db_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15636823322_cff0cdeaa7_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

15449344409_9c5e4ea2e5_c.jpg1936 Ford "driver" by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

Posted

Tulio, I know you are the expert on these because, you pointed out I had the spare tire hub cap on the wrong wheel on mine I think. I never did change it. :D

Posted

Tulio, I know you are the expert on these because, you pointed out I had the spare tire hub cap on the wrong wheel on mine I think. I never did change it. :D

Thanks!! That was a very small thing to fix, and easy to let pass. Only mentioned so you could fix it before taking the model to a show or something, and have a judge taking points from you because of that. When it's something on a factory stock car, and I'm positive the detail is wrong I try to warn the builder to fix it.

Now go fix that Ford already!! :P

Posted

Very nice--

I think it is important to note: this is what was originally intended by AMT for these very simple and now classic kits ---

(AND YES --- you can customize - chop - cut - channel - putty - glue - paint and otherwise bastardize the living daylights out of these kits until you have to tell us what exactly they started out as in the first place --- I get that but -----)

This is simply PURE CLASS!!!

Regards

Bill (Duntov)

Posted

Very nice work as always. Just wondering when did the cars in Brazil stop looking like the same year of car up here in the U.S. ?

That would be 1966. Until '66 the passenger cars were imported in parts on big wooden crates and assembled here, what included soldering the bodies, painting and assembly. The engines came fully assembled. Trucks were 100% built here from 1956 as was the 272 - 292 V8 Y Block. Those Brazilian engines were also installed on imported cars that were supposed to have them as original equipment.

Ford installed a assembly plant in Brazil in 1919. Originally it supplied all South America with Fords.

Thanks for your comments guys!!! Very appreciated!!!

Posted

Outstanding build, Tulio.

However, in the spirit of your advice ("Only mentioned so you could fix it before taking the model to a show or something, and have a judge taking points from you because of that. When it's something on a factory stock car, and I'm positive the detail is wrong I try to warn the builder to fix it."):

You should not leave the big, glaring ejector pin marks on the undersides of the running boards. It doesn't take much effort to remove them but it makes the undercarriage look much better. I realize you didn't put much effort into the chassis and drivetrain, but the ejector marks spoil the beauty of your model overall.

And, in my own personal opinion, I've always felt flatheads (and Hemis) look just plain wrong without spark plug wiring. Simple, easy touch to make the model look soooo much better. Just a couple of thoughts.

Posted

Outstanding build, Tulio.

However, in the spirit of your advice ("Only mentioned so you could fix it before taking the model to a show or something, and have a judge taking points from you because of that. When it's something on a factory stock car, and I'm positive the detail is wrong I try to warn the builder to fix it."):

You should not leave the big, glaring ejector pin marks on the undersides of the running boards. It doesn't take much effort to remove them but it makes the undercarriage look much better. I realize you didn't put much effort into the chassis and drivetrain, but the ejector marks spoil the beauty of your model overall.

And, in my own personal opinion, I've always felt flatheads (and Hemis) look just plain wrong without spark plug wiring. Simple, easy touch to make the model look soooo much better. Just a couple of thoughts.

I agree 100%

I built this Ford about 20 years ago, just did the weathering and some other small fixing now.

My "modern" builds of this kit are a little better on the chassis and engine department, even tough a few of the ejector pins always escape me:

13975704398_60cd14f056_c.jpg1936 Ford De Luxe Coupe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

14054473379_159925c1be_c.jpg1936 Ford De Luxe Coupe by Lovefordgalaxie, on Flickr

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