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67 Corvette Convertible Finished! Posted in Under Glass


microwheel

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Have you looked at a fabric store for Silver nylon thread, it is stranded and can be unwound to use as shielded spark plug wires, or you can use #2 detail master braided line to replicate the shielding on the plug wires, I realize its a past step, but have you looked at using wound guitar string for the rear sections of your emergency brake lines from the primary pull cable at the frame, to the calipers?

Also I'm looking forward to seeing how you connect the drag link with the idler arm on the passenger side,and the steering box and make them move with the tie rod assembly, always stumps me.

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Have you looked at a fabric store for Silver nylon thread, it is stranded and can be unwound to use as shielded spark plug wires, or you can use #2 detail master braided line to replicate the shielding on the plug wires, I realize its a past step, but have you looked at using wound guitar string for the rear sections of your emergency brake lines from the primary pull cable at the frame, to the calipers?

Also I'm looking forward to seeing how you connect the drag link with the idler arm on the passenger side,and the steering box and make them move with the tie rod assembly, always stumps me.

Hi Del thanks for the info, yes I know about silver thread, and somewhere back in this build you'll see I mentioned it. but it doesn't really scale out very well for plug scale plug wire, and to try to wrap each wire with it is very time consuming and this build is already taking a lifetime to build lol. Detail master's braided line though close to being right, would still make the plug wires seem over sized in scale, that and it doesnt thread through photo etched wire lumns very well either. As for guitar string wire for the ebrake flex lines. I've done that in the past with old used ones I've had laying around, but they have long been used up, and making them the way I did, is just as easy and cheap as going 40 miles to the closest music shop to buy more.

I plan to finish the idler arms on the front suspension soon, my process for those where first to assemble the engine and make sure that I had all my clearances for the tie rod and steering box correct around the exhaust manifolds and oil pan areas. It's will all make sense when I get that far. One thing you have to remember when researching front suspension online for these vettes, at least what I'm finding out anyways, is, the way the pitman arms and idler arms configure seems to change depending on the year.. And there is a really big difference between the power steering versions verse the non-power steering versions.

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Just a small update for this evening. A few people have commented now that they were wondering about making working pitman and idler arms with the front suspension. And though my plans are not to install these until I'm 100% sure about the clearances for the exhaust manifolds, I thought I would go ahead and scratch make up the parts so you can see how it's done. For those of you who might want to try this on your own builds. Or at least want to try my way of doing it.

To start with, the basic tools and materials I use for this process is as follows:

) Some straight pins used to pin everything together and act as pivot point rods.

) 2 different sized plastruct round rod to use as spacers and for making the idler arm. (I'm not good at keeping track of sizes here guys, but remember the round rod has to be drilled out to straight pin sized diameters so you want to use round rod at least big enough to drill through)

) A jewelers flat file for filing off the burs left after cutting the straight pins to size

) A pin vise with a straight pin sized diameter drill bit

) And some testors liquid cement (I use this because it welds the plastic)

This may take more than one post to get it all in, so bare with me.

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To start with, drill a straight pin diameter hole through the center of a piece of larger diameter round rod, giving yourself plenty of extra, (remember your making several pieces out of this. You'll need 2 short pieces to use as idler arm ends and 2 longer pieces to use as spacers.. how long depends on the gaps that will need to be satisfied from the idler and pittman arms to their mountingpoints. You'll understand later on. Cut a small length of smaller diameter round rod the same length as the drivers side pittman arm, that comes as part of the kit supplied front suspension tie rod, and using a tiny drop of cement glue the rod to one of the shorter rings you made out of the larger drilled out round rod. It should look something like the pic below:

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give the glue a good couple hours to set up and then remove the partially made idler arm from the pin and then glue the other end of the round rod to the other short ring. so when your done you should have 2 pieces like the pic below.

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Glue a flat piece of scrap plastic on one side of the longer tube like the pic below and then cut off any that sticks out below the length of the tube (you'll see in the pic below the pencil mark on where I plan to cut off mine . this will be the part that mounts on the side of the frame. Later you can cut all of your straight pins to their required lengths, but for now, your just mocking everything up so no need to cut them yet.

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This is the hole that you should have already drilled in the tie rod for the passenger side idler arm assembly. And where the parts you just made will attach.

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Next test fit the parts you just made, before painting and gluing them into place.

Here is how it should all fit if you get it right. And it should allow your new idler arm assembly to pivot with the movement of the tie rod.

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I'll be posting the steering box and pittman arm process in the following post.. so check back shortly.

Continued below......

Edited by microwheel
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For the steering box and pittman arm we use pretty much the same process as we did for the idler arm above, except the pittman arm was made from the one already supplied as part of the kits tie rod.. see my earlier post when I was working on the front suspension.

I started out by drilling a straight pin sized hole into the area of the steering box that would attach to the kit supplied pittman arm on the tie rod.

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Next another piece of the larger round rod was cut and drilled out to straight pin diameter to be used as a filler spacer. You'll see why shortly. (the pic below shows the previously made idler arm parts as well.

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The steering box was then test fitted into place to make sure the spacer and pittman arm matched up to it.

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If everything fits correctly. once the parts are painted.. just a small dab of CA glue on one the steering box side where the straight pin goes into the steering box should be all thats needed to hold it together.. and on the idler arm passenger side.. just a small drop of CA glue on the upper mount side where the pin comes through and on the tie rod side where the pin comes through the idler arm, and it should hold together as well and allow both sides to pivot with the tie rod.

That's pretty much how I make these parts to work with the suspension. You'll see them attached and detail painted when I'm ready for them on my build.

More to come as I get it done.

Edited by microwheel
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Great, now to get out the opti-visors so I can see what I'm trying to do. Thanks, super work.

Thanks Del. LOL yup it takes it's toll on these old eyes that's for sure. Thank god for magnifier lights and a wife who knows where to find them on birthdays and christmas. I go through alot of em on the work bench. The light on em is on so much on the workbench they tend to wear out and burn out all the time. And the visor type tend to irritate me when I've tried using them in the past.

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This is the part I've been waiting on after all the other detailing you've done on this build! I'll be watchin', gawkin' and learnin'!!

Thanks Joe, It seemed like I was never gonna get to the engine on this build. But, I'm finally getting to it. Now if I can just get everything done to it that I want, without alot of complications then I might just get this vette done sometime in the near future lol.

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Just a small update for today guys. Been working on the engine some.

Removed the molded on plug wire lumes from the valve covers and made slight notches with my exacto knife where they were, and in each corner of the valve covers near the back sides of them. Then added photo etched wire lumes and covered the oil cap with BMF. Drilled holes for the PVC and breather Lines.

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Next got some model masters chevy engine orange lacquer paint mixed up and gave the valve covers and oil pan a few coats. I then picked out the wire lumes with semi-gloss black and using a tooth pick dipped in lacquer thinner cleaned the paint off the oil cap exposing the BMF. I touched the bolt heads on the oil pan with metalizer aluminum using a tooth pick. I also painted the after market engine pulleys semi-gloss black, except for the one for the alternator, as well as the Air condition compressor and brackets.

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I gave the tranny a few coats of metalizer steel over coated with testors flat clear. I also gave the engine block a few coats of chevy engine orange. The Alternator got a few coats of Tamiya flat aluminum, and the brackets for the alternator got a few coats of Tamiya semi-gloss black. The engine main pulleys where then added to the block and the Alternator also got cemented to the block. The head bolts where touched with metalizer aluminum using a tooth pick and a light black wash was given to the back of the alternator. The tranny was detailed with different shades of metalizer to bring the detail out a little better. Later I'll add scratch made linkage to it.

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I'll post more as I get more done. Now that I've finally got a start on the engine, my hope is that things will move along a little faster and smoother.

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I like watching builds like this take form. Folks can learn all day long off this stuff and never have to ask a single question! Great work Jim!

Well thank you kindly Joe my friend. I hope some of my tricks help others the way so many have helped me over the years. It's nice to have a site like this where so many people share there ideas and building talents. I hope to have another engine update in the morning to share.

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Evening everyone, This vette is starting to take way to long to get completed. Here in the next few days I'm going to try to spend more time building. that means less time spent stopping every few steps to take pics.. So if I don't post as many detailed, "how it was done", shots along the way, please understand. I'm sure many of you know, when your building and trying to post a WIP here on the site, it sometimes slows your build way down. So I may end up showing more completed steps in the near future and less detailed build process pics. I hope you all understand that I really enjoy sharing my detailed build processes with you all, but I really need to spend more quality build time on this thing as well.

That being said, here is where I'm at tonight. I spent alot of time yesterday and today on the intake and carb assembly and detail. First of all let me say, the kit carbs, though nice for what they are, lacked alot of detail that Revell could have added. Soooooo, before painting and detailing the carbs and intake, I scratch made some Auto-chokes, and vacuum canisters on the passenger side of the carbs. They aren't perfect, but they show nice when the air cleaner is over the setup. I then planned out the vacuum lines and linkage and drilled the needed holes for them. Once that was done, I painted the intake metalizer aluminum plate, and the carbs were done in metalizer magnesium. I then dry brushed Tamiya's Titan gold acrylic over the carbs, and since the carbs were actually a little shallow looking on the intake, I extended the titan gold down, just a tad bit, onto the intake to make the carbs look a little taller. I then added the vacuum lines. Once that was done I turned my attention to the linkage setup. For the basic linkage, I used model car garage's photo etched linkage on all three carbs, and scratch made the linkage rods out of the core of scale detail ignition wire that was straightened and then bent to proper shapes. I made the throttle return spring with a strand of copper wire, winding it around a piece of piano wire and painted it yellow before attaching it. Various shades of metalizer was used on the scratch made parts on the carb to make them look more like they should. I also add a choke plate to the center carb . Based on the reference pics I have, this was the way most of these tri-carbs were on these vettes.

Once I had the intake and carb setup detailed, I turned my attention back to the engine itself. I installed the valve covers and then I painted and attached the Air Conditioner compressor and brackets. And finally the intake and carb assembly was set into place.

I mocked the engine up in the chassis to see how everything was mating up and to get an idea of how the engine was gonna look when completed. So far I think it's coming along pretty good. Still lots to do.

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My next update will come along as soon as get the rest of the engine detailed and ready to go into the chassis for good.

Thanks for checking my WIP out and stay tuned for more as I get it done.

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To keep picture taking from slowing you down, we could just put you on a web cam! :) Can't be any worse than the shows my wife watches!

Hahahahaha!!! Woooo hooooo! Let there be a gong strike for that!!!! I would definitely get a heck of a lot more out of it I know that. BTW it's funny that should come up about the TV. I bought a mini DVD player a few weeks back to take on trips for our son. Well it doubles for entertainment in the form of modeling how-to videos (weathering, painting and the like) while everybody else in the house is watching the "tsunami of window lickers"on TV.

Great progress on that motor Jim!

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Thanks alot guys, just so you all don't think I have been taking time off from the build. I haven't. I have been going at the engine detailing hot and heavy and havent had time to take pics and post the past few days. But I finally got most of the engine detailing done along with test fitting and adjusting a few other things and hope to have a picture posting update for you all by tomorrow afternoon if everything goes the way I hope. I would post tomorrow morning, but I have to go with my wife to her cancer doctor for a check up and a booster chemo treatment. We hope that the doc tells us that she is doing good. Will let ya all know how it goes when I post tomorrow afternoon.

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Jim, outstanding work on this project! just amazing work.

best wishes to you and wife, hope all goes well, and you get good news.

Thanks Tom, We always get a little worried when we go to her oncologist, and so far we've come out each time with good news, hopefully tomorrow will turn out the same.

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