Roadrunner Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 (edited) Not real sure if this will be an R/T or T/A (I have both), but I'll be starting one or the other very soon. In the meanwhile, I painted this base years ago, fooling myself into thinking it was something original; gloss black with multi colored flakes from a craft shop. My intent was/is to construct three inserts for the top; concrete, grass, and gravel, then use whichever one of them suits my mood, to display finished models on (display space is at a real premium here where I currently live). Edited April 13, 2015 by Roadrunner
Custom Mike Posted December 27, 2014 Posted December 27, 2014 Nice display base, but you never said what you were gonna build! I know it's a Mopar from the R/T and T/A, but is it going to be a Challenger perhaps?
Roadrunner Posted December 27, 2014 Author Posted December 27, 2014 Yes, I added a tag to that intent.
Roadrunner Posted December 28, 2014 Author Posted December 28, 2014 Minor update for sure, but today I was able to draw up the generic pattern that will serve as a basis for the three display inserts.
mustang1989 Posted December 29, 2014 Posted December 29, 2014 Got a pic of the kit boxing Kevin? It sounds like the Revell kit to me with the option for both versions.
Roadrunner Posted December 29, 2014 Author Posted December 29, 2014 Got a pic of the kit boxing Kevin? It sounds like the Revell kit to me with the option for both versions. Sort of. This photo was taken some time back. At this point I'm not sure which one to choose, Monogram or AMT. (These kits are all in a storage facility right now, or I'd get better photos.)
1/24DragAndStreetCars Posted December 29, 2014 Posted December 29, 2014 I say challenger R/T convert 1
Roadrunner Posted December 29, 2014 Author Posted December 29, 2014 To be quite honest, I'm leaning toward the T/A. I had one finished, with a Flinstone figure, but gave it to a neighbor when I moved.
Roadrunner Posted January 3, 2015 Author Posted January 3, 2015 OK, I still can't access my storage spaces yet, so I went ahead and ordered another Monogram Challenger. Today I picked up some Testors Icy Blue Lacquer for it, so do I need to spray this over white primer, or will regular light gray sandable primer be OK? It seems that since this is (hopefully) an opaque paint, the substrate color will be irrelevant?
tbill Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 Kevin, that color over gray will darken it a little, that interior tub is icy blue over gray primer.
tbill Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 icy blue over white primer, hope this helps some. 1
jaftygas Posted January 4, 2015 Posted January 4, 2015 That definitely looks metallic. If you want opaque don't use it.
Roadrunner Posted January 4, 2015 Author Posted January 4, 2015 Kevin, that color over gray will darken it a little, that interior tub is icy blue over gray primer. Interesting. I'll probably go with white primer or base coat first then. I really like the color of the hood behind the interior. That definitely looks metallic. If you want opaque don't use it. Are you saying that metallics aren't opaque? I was under the impression (perhaps incorrectly) that only candies were translucent.
tbill Posted January 5, 2015 Posted January 5, 2015 Kevin, the body behind that interior is painted in testors Nassau blue.
Ace-Garageguy Posted January 5, 2015 Posted January 5, 2015 (edited) Are you saying that metallics aren't opaque? I was under the impression (perhaps incorrectly) that only candies were translucent. "Metallics" consist of tiny metal or plastic particles suspended in a tinted clear. This is so you can actually see the particles, or flakes. If the flakes were mixed with an "opaque" paint, they would pretty much disappear. Because the flakes are suspended in a tinted clear, it can sometimes take as many as 5 coats, even when using Teasors "one coat" paints, to achieve full hiding and even color with no basecoat or primer show-through. This is why painters of real cars use "sprayout cards" with black and white squares. When you can't see the black through the paint any more, you know you have enough coats of paint to provide full-hiding. This is especially important if the color is not going to be clear-coated, but sanded and polished. It's necessary to provide additional coats of paint after full-hiding is achieved to allow for the removal of paint on high-spots that is inevitable during polishing, to avoid light spots and primer show-through. Edited January 5, 2015 by Ace-Garageguy 1
Roadrunner Posted January 5, 2015 Author Posted January 5, 2015 Kevin, the body behind that interior is painted in testors Nassau blue. It's beautiful. I'll probably end up buying a can. Thanks, "Metallics" consist of tiny metal or plastic particles suspended in a tinted clear. This is so you can actually see the particles, or flakes. If the flakes were mixed with an "opaque" paint, they would pretty much disappear. Because the flakes are suspended in a tinted clear, it can sometimes take as many as 5 coats, even when using Teasors "one coat" paints, to achieve full hiding and even color with no basecoat or primer show-through. Makes perfect sense, now that I think about it. Almost immediately after posting, I got to thinking the same thing, if the paint was truly opaque, that would probably render the flakes more or less useless. Looks like I'll be using a white (or perhaps silver) base coat under mine then.
Roadrunner Posted January 10, 2015 Author Posted January 10, 2015 Good thing I ordered another. All three of the kits above the new boxing, are missing the bodies. I have no earthly idea where they may have gotten to.
Roadrunner Posted January 16, 2015 Author Posted January 16, 2015 I was finally able to shoot some paint on the engine today. Not much of an update perhaps, but I am slowly making progress. Frame is mostly finished and awaiting paint, as is body and interior. I expect that the tires are going to be the worst problem, as they have horrible seams on them, but since I'm going box stock, I'm stuck with them.
mustang1989 Posted January 17, 2015 Posted January 17, 2015 (edited) Say....that engine block looks familiar! Lookin' forward to some parts flyin on this one. BTW Kevin: Thank you for looking in your storage in an attempt to help me out dude! Looky what I found on ebay for just under $20.00 to include shipping. And it's all molded in red too....... Just got it in the mail today!!! Edited January 17, 2015 by mustang1989 2
Roadrunner Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 Good for you, Joe. Looks like I may be going curbside with this for the show here in May. OOB rules are pretty vague, but seem to prohibit several simple things I want to do with this, whereas curbside has no such restrictions.
Roadrunner Posted January 17, 2015 Author Posted January 17, 2015 In order to give some sort of visual variety to bottom area of car, chassis has received a base coat of Tamiya Nato Black. Rear end, springs, driveshaft and some suspension components, will be painted some complimentary shades. (Lousy photo, but until I get my light box setup, it's about the best I can do.)
Roadrunner Posted January 22, 2015 Author Posted January 22, 2015 Real slow going here, but at least I was able to spray some wood colored acrylic base for the oils to follow. Once that’s done, painting the rest of the interior should be a snap (I think).
mustang1989 Posted January 23, 2015 Posted January 23, 2015 Hey there Kevin. I found out some information regarding chassis. Initially I had painted my chassis black but later found out that it was mostly body color. Here's a photo from one of my reference photos that I acquired through here: Not nit picking as you are off to a good start but just giving some info to you. 1
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