Matt Bacon Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 ...this was supposed to be a quicky! Very nice Hasegawa curbside kit of a car I nearly bought back when I was 25. The complete lack of service history, registration document and cracked windscreen put me off.... I don't know why ;-P. But I wish I had (it was only £2500 in 1990...) if it was throwaway money! Interior is simple, and easy... Primer, German Grey, then drybrushed with Citadel Shadow Gray and Necronomicon Grey. Neat dashboard with a bit of detail painting: Nice, a bit simplified, chassis goes together well with basic painting... now this to deal with: The clear coat has leached the red dye out of the plastic, through the primer and yellow base coat,. So I have to see whether isopropyl alcohol will fetch the clear-coat and base yellow coat off. I'm reliably assured that it will, so we'll see what happens next week while I soak the plastic in IPA for several days... Annoyingly, I think this would have been finished in a weekend if it hadn't been for the body screw-up! Anyway, good to have a "quicky" there or thereabouts... bestest, M.
Speedfreak Posted January 25, 2015 Posted January 25, 2015 Wow, that red plastic wasn't going to be denied!
cobraman Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Just saw them restore one on Wheeler Dealers. Old rerun I think.
rv1963 Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Wow that's really to bad, as your paint work looks pretty smooth, good luck on the fix.
Erik Smith Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 I hate that Hasegawa did the non-rally version of this car in red - they've done it on a few models. Red is the worst plastic.
DumpyDan Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Really like what you have done to the interior
Mr Stock Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 Id be interested to know if IPA works on the paint Matt, Its a nightmare finding a decent paint stripper here in the UK, Ive tried Oven Cleaner, Brake Fluid and even my old favourite Fairy power spray doesnt seem to work anymore. I do however have a bottle of IPA, if this works without affecting the plastic ......... Be good to hear the results.
dublin boy Posted January 26, 2015 Posted January 26, 2015 There should be no reason why DOT 4 from any motor factors wouldn't strip the paint, just don't use DOT 5 as it's silicone based and doesn't work. DOT 3 doesn't seem to be available anymore in the UK and Ireland.
Matt Bacon Posted January 26, 2015 Author Posted January 26, 2015 Thanks, guys. It's been in the IPA since this morning, and the clear coat is starting to wrinkle in various places. I'm away for a couple of days, so by the time I get back... I've got some Zero "Yellow Oxide Isolator/Sealer" to go on to the red plastic under the primer if I manage to get it stripped back that far... bestest, M.
Matt Bacon Posted January 27, 2015 Author Posted January 27, 2015 A bit more progress... Finishing touch for the cabin: seat belts. The belts themselves are etched brass, and nicely textured, though you can't see it. The idea is that they are "sprung" slightly outwards, and will slide up the inside B pillar and look as if they are attached as the body goes on over the chassis. That's the plan, anyway... ...and I think we can safely conclude that IPA does indeed strip Zero 2K clear and base coat! It's tenaciously hanging on in the seams where the coloured clearcoat gathered and is thicker, but I hope that if this is where we are after 24 hours, by Thursday evening when I'm back home it will have even stripped those last corners. It doesn't seem to be having any effect on the Tamiya Fine Surface Primer, mind, so my sealer may have to go on top of that! bestest, M.
Belugawrx Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Hey Matt Good luck with the next round in the spray booth! I really like that shoulder strap idea Interior looking good Cheers
mustang1989 Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Interior looks sharp!!! As others have said, "Good luck in the paint booth this time around."
ferrari87 Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Matt, when I had my DBS debacle, i soaked the body in IPA for 3 days, the lacquer paint softened up but the Tamiya Fine primer stood firm. I hope you find something that works! Right now I'm having flashbacks to the DBS body melting in my hands...
Matt Bacon Posted January 27, 2015 Author Posted January 27, 2015 Thanks, guys. If the IPA doesn't take the primer off, I shall leave it as it is. I think the issue is that both the primer and the base coat are slightly porous, and allow the solvent in the clear coat to reach through to the red plastic and "suck" the dye out of it, bringing it to the surface and into the clear coat as the solvent evaporates. If that's the problem, it really shouldn't matter whether the oxide sealant goes directly on to the plastic or over the primer layer, as long as it blocks the porosity in the primer. Actually, since it's (as far as I can see) a regular Zero Paint, I probably wouldn't want to spray it onto bare plastic anyway, since I'd then worry about the solvent in the SEALER etching the plastic! bestest, M.
Matt Bacon Posted January 27, 2015 Author Posted January 27, 2015 Well, that's the running gear all done. Not so many parts, but I think it does the job -- it certainly looks like the pictures of the "ordinary" Integrales I've found, if not the "550BHP Sprint car" which has been more than a bit "fettled..." I think this is about as far as this goes until the body is fully cooked, sealed, primed, base coated and clear coated... again ;-P bestest, M.
Davewilly Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 looking pretty good! Nice work on the interior!
LDO Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Whoa. I had to go back and read all of the first post. I thought you were stripping paint with India Pale Ale. Cool car, BTW.
Brizio Posted January 27, 2015 Posted January 27, 2015 Beautiful car! From the picture, you are making the Evoluzione, that has wider fenders that the predecessor. I drove one quit a while, a fun car.
Matt Bacon Posted February 11, 2015 Author Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks, all... This has taken a while, but now I'm back where I started! Stripped, sanded, coated with sealer (the greeny-yellow stuff), primed again in white, shut lines washed in black with Citadel wash, and finally repainted in the Zero yellow base coat. It is rougher than it would have been if I'd got it right first time, here and there, but it's a balancing act between getting it completely smooth and sanding away the surface detail you want in some places... ...and just in case anyone was wondering why I like the Zero 2K system, despite the fact that it's poisonous and a real faff to clean up after, this is it. I've done no polishing at all on the roof or bonnet here. Not even had to take out the odd dust mark... Bearing in mind that there's satin black trim to go all over the place, but especially around the windows, I'm pretty happy how this has turned out straight out of the spray booth. There's no red bleed anywhere, except for one small and inexplicable circular spot on the rear bumper... bestest, M.
fitforbattle Posted February 12, 2015 Posted February 12, 2015 Zero 2k is amazing. And I figure if you start working with it you wont mind the hassle of cleaning up, cause end result is over the top. That yellow looks great.
Matt Bacon Posted February 14, 2015 Author Posted February 14, 2015 Thanks, chaps... slow but steady progress... A couple of hours masking, ten minutes spraying, and 30 minutes clean up! And what's this interloper on the bench? One I'm saving for later... bestest, M.
Matt Bacon Posted February 15, 2015 Author Posted February 15, 2015 So, that was one of the more nerve-wracking episodes of putting the body on the chassis. Talk about "tight fit"... Now all I have to do is figure out how to dislodge the small flakes of yellow paint that have pinged off the body or chassis and static-electricity-ed themselves to the windscreen and side windows. I need a feather! bestest, M
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