Eric Macleod Posted February 25, 2015 Posted February 25, 2015 There you go. Those look just right. You are correct to have the quite long valve stems in brass. This is coming along great. On the cars at our shop, the plywood floors are painted flat black. In the Ford Shops and Methods book that was written in 1915 it mentions the black wash for the floors which was a 50:50 combination of unspecified black paint and gasoline...applied with a brush. This was also true of the paint applied to the body. Sprayed on paint came later. Now...I don't know about you but I doubt I will be able to bring myself to brush paint my model, though it would actually be more authentic if it was done that way, then rubbed out afterwards. This is looking good. E-
Art Anderson Posted February 25, 2015 Author Posted February 25, 2015 On 2/25/2015 at 10:19 PM, Eric Macleod said: There you go. Those look just right. You are correct to have the quite long valve stems in brass. This is coming along great. On the cars at our shop, the plywood floors are painted flat black. In the Ford Shops and Methods book that was written in 1915 it mentions the black wash for the floors which was a 50:50 combination of unspecified black paint and gasoline...applied with a brush. This was also true of the paint applied to the body. Sprayed on paint came later. Now...I don't know about you but I doubt I will be able to bring myself to brush paint my model, though it would actually be more authentic if it was done that way, then rubbed out afterwards. This is looking good. E- Eric, It should be easy! Just get some 1/25 scale paintbrushes, working 1/25 scale painters and paint away! Don't forget to wait about 4-5 weeks for that paint to dry, then varnish! BTW, on the '13 T, while I know the body was painted a very dark blue, some pics of a restored 1:1 show the hood and rear hood "shelf" as painted black? Was that factory practice? Art
gtx6970 Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 I am watching this one. May have to think about picking one of these kits
Atmobil Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 Really cool project. I have to get one of these kits aswell. Some years ago a model-t showed up at our local vw-show. It was a car made up of parts from many and also some parts that was not car at all (seats from bathtubs). Here is a picture of it:
Eric Macleod Posted February 26, 2015 Posted February 26, 2015 The bodies in 1913 were one of three colors, dark blue, dark green or black. Hoods, hood former (hood shelf) and wheels should be painted the same color as the body. Pinstriping should be gray for the blue cars, straw for the green cars. Black cars can be striped in either straw or gray. Hope that helps. E-
Art Anderson Posted February 26, 2015 Author Posted February 26, 2015 On 2/26/2015 at 3:46 PM, Eric Macleod said: The bodies in 1913 were one of three colors, dark blue, dark green or black. Hoods, hood former (hood shelf) and wheels should be painted the same color as the body. Pinstriping should be gray for the blue cars, straw for the green cars. Black cars can be striped in either straw or gray. Hope that helps. E- That simplifies my job a good bit. Thanks, Eric! Art
Art Anderson Posted February 26, 2015 Author Posted February 26, 2015 On 2/26/2015 at 8:59 PM, my80malibu said: Art how do you plan to do the Stripe's? As tiny as pinstriping is, it's not likely I will even attempt it. Art
Eric Macleod Posted February 27, 2015 Posted February 27, 2015 Oh come on Art! There's not a lot on the car. All you need are stripes along the perimeters of all of the body panels, one on each spoke of the wheel and a dot on each bolt, plus a bit of perimeter striping on the hood. Oh...and on the real car it is 1/8" thick. Child's play right? In complete seriousness, the more I think about trying a brushed and buffed lacquer paint job when I do my runabout, the more appealing it gets. Paint that is well thinned might come out well. Let me get the Duesey done first! E-
Art Anderson Posted February 27, 2015 Author Posted February 27, 2015 On 2/27/2015 at 3:59 AM, Eric Macleod said: Oh come on Art! There's not a lot on the car. All you need are stripes along the perimeters of all of the body panels, one on each spoke of the wheel and a dot on each bolt, plus a bit of perimeter striping on the hood. Oh...and on the real car it is 1/8" thick. Child's play right? In complete seriousness, the more I think about trying a brushed and buffed lacquer paint job when I do my runabout, the more appealing it gets. Paint that is well thinned might come out well. Let me get the Duesey done first! E- Yeah, 1/8" in 1/25 scale is a very wide 5-thousandths of an inch--far narrower than the finest paintbrush tip, and certainly tinier than the smallest available gel pen. I think I'll just say that the orginal owner polished all the striping off his new '13 T roadster! Art
jbwelda Posted February 27, 2015 Posted February 27, 2015 it would actually be in 1/24 scale, a piece of cake. jb
Art Anderson Posted February 27, 2015 Author Posted February 27, 2015 On 2/27/2015 at 2:55 PM, John Goschke said: Those tires look amazing! Well done! John, I liked the idea that ICM at least tried to do a proper tire for the era, but what most people today don't know is that prior to about 1930, in natural light such as light colored tires came off in pictures as starkly white--even the early carbon-black inpregnated natural rubber tires. Fortunately, here in Lafayette, in addition to a Michael's and a Hobby Lobby, we have several small artist's supply shops, plus two large and well-stocked college campus bookstores, all of which carry a wide variety of drawing and painting supplies. The Chartpak Light Sand ink marker I bought was a stab in the dark, frankly--there is only a 1.5 inch bit of sprue that connects the ICM tires in pairs--not much room for a test (yeah, I tried a spoon test, but those are hard plastic, and often soft plastics with a dull finish behave differently). At any rate, it was a worthwhile experiment, even though the dirty tread color isn't as even as I'd have liked--but then, who ever said that dirt is perfect anyway? Art
Eric Macleod Posted February 27, 2015 Posted February 27, 2015 I have an interesting picture on my wall showing a whole room full of brand new 1925 Ford Model T's at the end of the production line at the Highland Park plant. Interestingly, it is very clear that the tires on the open cars-the runabouts and the tourings are black. The tires on the closed cars-the sedans are light gray and the coupes are off white (like Art's tires, only with tread as by that time tire manufacturers clearly had figured out tread is a good idea). Light gray? Off white? Yup. How does one know? Because the stickers clearly visible through the windshields of the cars are even more white than the lightest colored tires, and the tires on the sedans were uniformly darker than the tires on the coupes. Pretty neat eh? I think Art has captured the essence of the tire color one would frequently see on brass cars of this era, both from a contemporary perspective and as they frequently appear today. Tires on tour cars particularly look exactly like Art has shown, though he probably should bugger up a couple rims as almost all of them have had tire changes so many times that the rims are a mess!
Art Anderson Posted March 19, 2015 Author Posted March 19, 2015 Got the fender/chassis assembly and body painted! Tamiya TS-14 Black lacquer through the airbrush for everything below the floorboards and fenders, and Tamiya TS-15 Blue (darkened with a bit of TS-14). A clear coat of Modelmaster "Wet Look" clear has been applied to all the body parts as well as the upper (exterior) surfaces of the fenders and running boards, to allow for some polishing without the danger or rubbing through the colors at the raised details. The wheels should have been the same blue as the body, but maybe the wheel department at Highland Park ran out of blue paint? (That's my story and I'm sticking with it!). One thing I did notice when mounting the wheels: ICM captured the very visible "camber" that Model T's have to the front wheels (indeed very visible on all solid front axle Fords out through 1948), which really helps make the front end.
Art Anderson Posted March 20, 2015 Author Posted March 20, 2015 I also managed to get the "wiring harness" for the ignition timer (forerunner of the later, more modern distributor) done this afternoon. Pics will happen when I get the wires color-coded and completely hooked up to the timer. Art
afx Posted March 20, 2015 Posted March 20, 2015 I'm really enjoying this build Art. I like the color choices.
slusher Posted March 21, 2015 Posted March 21, 2015 On 3/21/2015 at 12:54 AM, cobraman said: Coming along nicely. X2
Art Anderson Posted March 22, 2015 Author Posted March 22, 2015 Finished the engine last night, after I got home from work:
Art Anderson Posted March 22, 2015 Author Posted March 22, 2015 On 3/20/2015 at 1:28 AM, afx said: I'm really enjoying this build Art. I like the color choices. Dark blue body and hood was the only color available on the roadster for 1913. Art
afx Posted March 22, 2015 Posted March 22, 2015 On 3/22/2015 at 2:50 AM, Art Anderson said: Dark blue body and hood was the only color available on the roadster for 1913. Art I guess I am showing my lack of knowledge of Model T's I am a bit surprised by your choice to clear coat the paint. Are you going for a high gloss finish after you polish?
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