Lindberg Ford Crown Victoria (Advice Needed)

[av405]

Just a quick intro. This is my first serious build since I was a youngster. I first introduced myself in this topic and got an amazing response as far as suggestions and tips go, particularly from Bill Geary (MrObsessive):

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45265

A few years later and with more free time, I have decided to implement many of the suggestions that were given to me into building this Crown Vic. This kit is dear to me as, being my very first kit ever, it started my interest in this hobby back in 1999 when I was 8. As a snap kit,I figured it would make for a great first kit and learning experience. I haven't chosen what department this vehicle will represent yet, so that'll come later.

That being said, I want to include you guys in this learning experience and would appreciate more words of wisdom. For reference, I started with this:

I sanded the body down using 400 and 600 grit sandpaper. I shaved off the side door moldings and tried to smooth the doors down as much as possible. I then washed the body with dish washing soap and let it air dry in a partially open container. A day later I applied 2 light coats of Tamiya primer from a can and then gave it a wet coat at 5-10 minute intervals. Now I'm left with this:

Problem #1: Ghosting. After sanding down the doors, I applied Ambroid Pro Weld to try to erase the memory of the side molding, a tip provided by Bill Geary. I then sanded down the door again but I'm still getting ghosting, particularly on the passenger side. Should I sand down/apply more pro weld or will subsequent coats of paint help?

Problem #2: Mold lines. I tried sanding them down and trying the same weld method. Should I use a different grit?

Problem #3: I don't think the primer went on as smooth as I had hoped. Notice the spotting:

I know this was a mouthful but any advice/suggestions are welcome. I'm not aiming for perfection, especially not on my first adult build. But I think I can turn out something good with some guidance.

Edited February 5, 2015 by av405

[W-409]

That liquid glue trick usually works, but I've noticed that sometimes you need either to do it several times, or then you'll need to apply a little putty. Now since you have already painted the body, I think it's not a good idea to use liquid glue to smooth out that ghosting. What I would do would be adding a light coat of putty on a bit larger area than the ghosting and then sanding it smooth. After that a couple of very thin coats of Primer and a couple of a bit harder coats and you should be ready for paint. Same thing goes with the mold lines.

Primer doesn't always go so smooth, so I would wetsand the body with 1000 grit sandpaper. After that it will be smooth.

These are not the only possible ways to go, I'm sure, but this is what has worked for me. It's interesting to see how this will turn out - the subject is quite interesting even if it's a bit newer car than I'm usually into.

[rsxse240]

I am not sure if the plastic in that kit is polystyrene, abs or what ever kind of fancy plastic they're coming out with these days, but I do know if it's a softer plastic, you'll have a much more difficult time getting rid of that ghosting.

I would let the primer dry thoroughly then sand with probably 800 or 1000 grit and knock the high spots off of the ghosting, then re apply the primer, let it cure and sand the high spots again and just keep repeating this until it's gone. Sometimes as many as 5 coats/sanding are required. I am USUALLY able to get rid of ghosting in this manner.

Something else to think about is that when your sanding, use a very solid backing substance when you're leveling surfaces, otherwise with a soft backing, you'll be sanding the valleys as well as the peaks of the imperfections. Light pressure also helps in this process because plastic actually compresses slightly under pressure, specially some of the cheaper stuff models are being made of these days.

[Draggon]

Sometimes I use a dremel to grind down the offending area significantly wider and lower, fill the void with bondo, then block sand and feather the edges. It works particularly well on door lines.

[Can-Con]

From what I can see in your pics, the problem on the doors isn't ghosting, you just don't have all the molding completely sanded off.

It looks raised , ghosting usually leaves a shallow depression wherever something is removed and is caused from using a "hot" laquer based paint, Tamiya primer shouldn't cause ghosting.

I think you just need to do some more sanding , using something hard behind the paper like a sanding block. Hard to find one that small but wrapping your sandpaper around a popsicle stick should do the trick.

[espo]

I agree with Steve on your door problem. While all of the other information is good to have it really looks like you need some more work on the doors. Depending on what you have available you could use a simple nail sanding stick from the woman's section at the drug store. You might use a bit of tap to mask the molding on either side of the door so you don't lose that detail. Sand everything until you get almost all the primer sanded off and you will start to see any other additional body work you need to do. It is real hard to tell were your at on just white plastic. Just try light dusting of primer and sand as needed.

[Chuck Most]

What Steve said... you don't have the rub strip all the way gone yet.

That being said, ghosting is a problem with these- something I learned when I built my Michigan State Police Crown Vic. Any of the solutions others have posted will work, I've also had good luck going over the primer with a sealer. I use DupliColor primer, and then go over it with their line of primer sealer once the bodywork is finished.

[Lunajammer]

From what I can see in your pics, the problem on the doors isn't ghosting, you just don't have all the molding completely sanded off.

Yup. Keep going. You're doing all the right things, just a little more.

[av405]

Thank you all for your replies. As some brought this point up: Yes, I have been using small blocks when sanding and it has definitely helped to maintain an evenness. So if I'm understanding the consensus correctly, I should keep sanding with 800-1000 grit sandpaper and then apply bondo after to even things out if I go to far? Would Tamiya putty work in this case as well or is the bondo from an auto parts store better recommended? Also, let's say I wasn't shaving the side molding off and I just wanted to get good primer coverage but I ended up with the same result as above. So I just basically sand what I have right now with 1000 grit sandpaper and then give it another coat? I understand everybody has their own ways/methods but I appreciate how constructive this all is.

[W-409]

What I would do now, as after someone said it, it actually looks like you didn't quite sand the entire side trim off... I would sand those doors completely smooth starting with 400 grit paper and finishing it with 600 and 1000 grit papers. Then a light coat of Primer and if there still is some ghosting, then I'd apply a light coat of putty on that surface and sand it smooth.

I don't recommend Tamiya Putty, as it sinks after some time (After a year maybe). My friend built a '51 Chevy Full Custom years ago and used Tamiya Putty when smoothing out the body mods. It looked good, but after some time the putty started shrinking and then the paint job wasn't smooth anymore. I have used Bondo on my projects and there has never been that kind of a problem.

I hope this helps.

Edited February 13, 2015 by W-409

[av405]

Thank you. I'm currently smoothing down the side trim and I feel like I'm definitely making progress on that end. I think it'll turn out good.

The funny thing about what you said is that I heard the same thing said about Bondo that you said about the Tamiya putty. I've only heard good things about the putty. I think I'll stick to it so long as I only apply a small amount. For larger areas I've always heard that it's best to go down the Bondo route.

[W-409]

The funny thing about what you said is that I heard the same thing said about Bondo that you said about the Tamiya putty. I've only heard good things about the putty. I think I'll stick to it so long as I only apply a small amount. For larger areas I've always heard that it's best to go down the Bondo route.

I've never heard of that, but I guess there are different Bondos available and some of them might shrink & some don't.

Yes, when applying small amounts of that Tamiya Putty you should be fine.

Edited February 18, 2015 by W-409