Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

Posted

Can I ask how you attached the hinges? I had major problems gluing similar hinges to a Van I built ... super glue, epoxy .. nothing wanted to keep the cylinders stuck.

The truck is looking just spectacular!

Posted

HI, Mike: Was out your way yesterday in Chicopee to the Wings and Wheels show. Had a good time. I used superglue to attach the hinges but did some other things as well. When I get a chance to post the tutorial on how they were made I think it will be clear as to how it can be done.

Posted (edited)

If you check out the Tips, Tricks and Tutorial section below you will see the first of two postings on how I did the hinges.

In a nutshell the hinges are set into notches made in the edge of the door. After the door is notched, each hinge is pinned to the door using a piece of brass wire. The wire is then filed flush with the top of the flat stock that rests against the edge of the door. Superglue holds it all together. One thing I have noticed is that if the brass is dirty, the glue will not adhere well. An option would be to use two part resin as an adhesive but I like the glue.

Another thing on cutting out the doors is that you loose a little material in the process so it is necessary to add some strip stock around portions of the edge of the door to close up the opening. Doing that along the edge where the hinges are seals the brass hinge behind the strip stock as well. Trim the stock to match the shape and thickness of the door.

Edited by Chariots of Fire
Posted

Hi, Aaron. About the 8 lug wheels: I just sanded of the 10 lugs smooth. I used a circle template to locate 4 lug points as a square and then filled in between with 4 more. I used some plastruct hexagonal rod cut in pieces to glue on as new lugs.

I didn't even think about hex rod, makes perfect sense.

Posted

Today was paint day! Sometimes you just get to the point that there's no more fooling around and out comes the paint can. With this part concluded I can concentrate now on the interior of the cab, get the dash done up and get the pedals, shift, 4wd levers, low range lever and seat installed. Then it's on to the body and some details for the pump, hose reels and other firefighting stuff.

051_zpstqsg3b8d.jpg

048_zpsr2aczoei.jpg

052_zpsiumseffx.jpg

Once everything is in place the stainless pin that holds the door hinges in place will be cut and secured to each hinge.

Posted (edited)

try this posting

13658779/001-vi.jpg

Forget it! I just made up a new Fotki album and are having a bit of trouble figuring out how to transfer photos here. Photobucket is just too slow.

Edited by Chariots of Fire
Posted (edited)
post-1827-0-20312700-1428200486_thumb.jpThe cab is now secured to the frame. The engine wiring has been completed and now it's on to fabricating the brush bars that go around the front and sides to the body. The hinges are now separated and the connecting stainless steel wire was snipped and secured to each hinge. Worked out pretty well.

post-1827-0-35453200-1428200516_thumb.jp

post-1827-0-96141500-1428200540_thumb.jp

Edited by Chariots of Fire
Posted

Very nice, Charlie. Are you going to NNL-East? If so, that'll be a big hit even on the WIP table.

Whether there, Classic Plastic or LIARS, I'll enjoy seeing the end results. I always do with your projects. Some great craftsmanship.

Charlie Larkin

Posted

Got a bit more done on the F-7. The brush bars have been roughed out and attached to the bottom bumper. They are still removeable with the bumper. The vertical piece to the rear of the tire is simply pinned on the bottom but is not secured yet making it possible to take everything off for final cleanup and painting. I have to drill some holes in the fenders for bracing. That should be fun!

066_zpss2kj7e4b.jpg

068_zpsg32goqj6.jpg

069_zpspg0xwjdt.jpg

Posted

That looks great so far! Are you going to weather it or leave it as being new??

I'll probably keep it looking sort of new. If it is weathered it will only be that the paint is worn on the brush bars and along the running boards. No real distressed look.

be Well

Gator

Posted

Work continues on the F-7. With the body now painted and in position I could pay some attention to the hose reels and ladder rack. The reels, frame and rack are made of soldered brass strip stock, tubing and wire. The reel spokes were marked out on paper first to get the proper spacing and angle. They were soldered at the center and then trimmed to fit inside the outside circle. Ends were soldered. The inside tube was drilled out in 6 equally spaced points and then the tubing was cut leaving the holes at each end. The holes were notched so that the spokes would slide into place. Then all was soldered together and the center drilled out so that a small inner shaft of tubing could extend into the receiving tubes on the frame. All of this gets painted red eventually.

What a shock I got when I opened a new package of K&S 1/64 x 1/32 strip stock however! Up until now each piece has been well shaped as if it was extruded. These pieces look as if they were cut to the 1/32 width with a big knife! Edges were rough and not cleaned up. Very disappointed in K&S.

post-1827-0-21884000-1429986544_thumb.jp

post-1827-0-21154800-1429986563_thumb.jp

post-1827-0-41337900-1429986580_thumb.jp

post-1827-0-51143300-1429986592_thumb.jp

Posted (edited)

With the ladder rack and hose reels essentially done more work was done on the Wisconsin V-4 engine that powered the topside rotary gear pump. The V-4 is half of the kit V-8 that came with the Revel F-1 Ford. The rest is scratch built using various plastic stock material and some thin brass shim stock for the covers. The V-4 is air cooled by a front fan that looks a lot like jet engine turbine blades. Still plenty to do to finish the engine and get on with the pump and plumbing.

091_zpstokgurx9.jpg

092_zpsekdy7yjp.jpg

093_zpssh3vvc91.jpg

095_zpsjbog52pz.jpg

Edited by Chariots of Fire
Posted

Charles - Great Conversion!! I am converting an F-1 to an F-7/F-8. I found a build/conversion article by chance - he said 2mm fender spacers - I initially went with 2mm & it didn't look right so I went with 3mm and after looking at your build - my fenders still look narrow compared to yours. What width fender spacer did you use?

Thanks - Gregor

Posted (edited)

Charles - Great Conversion!! I am converting an F-1 to an F-7/F-8. I found a build/conversion article by chance - he said 2mm fender spacers - I initially went with 2mm & it didn't look right so I went with 3mm and after looking at your build - my fenders still look narrow compared to yours. What width fender spacer did you use?

Thanks - Gregor

I used 4 mm on each side. If you go to the first page of the post you can get an idea of where the strips were added. Edited by Chariots of Fire
Posted

Work continues. Had to get another can of Duplicolor #398 red today so I could finish up the ladder rack and hose reels. Been using that particular color a long time. Anyway with the hose reels painted I could put on the booster hose. It's just electrical wire that has the look of rubber booster hose. Nozzles are yet to be made up.

The Wisconsin V-4 pump engine is now complete with switches, gages and decals. It's ready to be installed in place once the plumbing is ready. The ladder rack still needs the hold down bracket near the back. The rack will be installed last so it will be easier to put in the plumbing and fill the hose bed.

101_zpsuztbyjlp.jpg

104_zpscyitroyp.jpg

106_zpswl73nnvm.jpg

105_zpstkj4ofrf.jpg

109_zpsx3nnvm8x.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...