Wet sanding help

[Jon Cole]

I need a tip or idea how to wet sand near raised parts, such as body side trim, etc. I can smooth out the "open" areas, but I have a hard time on the edges. Any suggestions?

[Ace-Garageguy]

Even on 1:1 cars, I'll often use a line of masking tape to protect a raised edge or sharp corner. If you tape really really carefully on a model, you can get right up close to something like a chrome spear.

It also works well for me to fold the sandpaper to a sharp crease. Makes the edge stiffer, and allows you to get close in, again, to the raised detail...and see where you're sanding. You have to keep making a new "edge" though, because it will clog fairly quickly.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Just have to be careful. If your paint is relatively smooth to start with, you shouldn't have to worry too much about the body creases & "peaks". I usually just brush over those areas very lightly with each grit. Make sure you're careful around the "panel lines" also. That's usually where I have trouble. I usually pile on between 3 & 5 coats of clear as well. You're much less likely to burn through to the paint that way. As far as trim goes, if you plan on foiling the trim. it really doesn't matter if you burn through that. it will be covered up anyway. Steve

[Guest]

I fold the sandpaper and run a bead of super glue in the V, then flatten it firmly until it dries. It keeps the edge sharp and makes it a little stiffer. Just take your time and sand slowly and carefully.

[Snake45]

I cut my sandpaper into small pieces--maybe an inch square, maybe a little more--and then fold those in half. I can get right up to the edge of a crease, emblem, or door handle.

Plowboy, if you're having trouble sanding though at panel lines, try block-sanding your panel lines flat before any paint--even primer--goes on (with #400-#600 grit). In most kits, panel lines are surrounded by a slight rim formed when they come out of the mold. Get rid of that and most of your panel line problems will disappear.

[Mike_G]

I'm also in the fold and use the edge camp.

[Guest]

Plowboy, if you're having trouble sanding though at panel lines, try block-sanding your panel lines flat before any paint--even primer--goes on (with #400-#600 grit). In most kits, panel lines are surrounded by a slight rim formed when they come out of the mold. Get rid of that and most of your panel line problems will disappear.

I don't have that problem.

[StevenGuthmiller]

I don't have that problem.

I think it was me he was talking about. It's really not a major problem for me either. Just something that popped it's head up in the past. I just take it easy now & watch myself. Steve

[Snake45]

Whoops, sorry Plowboy and Steven. I did get confused on who posted what.

[Art Anderson]

I fold the sandpaper and run a bead of super glue in the V, then flatten it firmly until it dries. It keeps the edge sharp and makes it a little stiffer. Just take your time and sand slowly and carefully.

I've been doing pretty much the same thing, with one exception: To get a truly sharp and straight edge to that fold, I scribe the back side of Wet or Dry sandpaper with an Xacto knife and a straight edge. This allows the paper to be folded without any jagged broken edge to the grit.

Art

[Jeff Johnston]

I fold the sandpaper and run a bead of super glue in the V, then flatten it firmly until it dries. It keeps the edge sharp and makes it a little stiffer. Just take your time and sand slowly and carefully.

That is a great tip.... I ave to try that. My corner always folds over.

[Jon Cole]

Great tips all! Thank you.

[crazyjim]

Put some Dawn dishwashing liquid in your water tub. Dawn seems to add lubrication to the water.