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VR6 BeelzeDub

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About VR6 BeelzeDub

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  • Location
    new york
  • Full Name
    roberto coman

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  1. what kind of "straight pin" is everyone talking about? and how do you press them in?
  2. Do you happen to have an unassembled 90 LX model on hand by any chance? I'm curious to see if theres anyway to "swap" the front out? i know the fenders are completely different and i don't have the skills to even try it...yet. Since your actually working on one I had to ask... i like the way your going with this though and ill be following
  3. im curious to see how your tweaking the suspension. I just got back into this hobby and want to do things right and am also in almost exactly the same boat with a Tamiya 993 tear down. I have two projects that im stuck on cuz I cant figure out how to lower them
  4. Agreed! I kept "deforming" the curve ever so slightly on one im building now
  5. AHHHHHHHHH! what happened? I have to see more! Any updates?
  6. Any updates? Great thread with a lot of useful info/tips! I love these detailed threads w/before and after photos. Well done, I really want to see more
  7. Nice job... Build threads like these really help me out since im relatively new to modeling on a serious level. I'm always learning from simple to the point and documented threads like these. SO THANK YOU! I'm gonna check out your other topics now btw lol
  8. I have goose bumps just thinking about doing that lol! I should have asked if i was on the right path by modifying the subframe/control arms that way first, before admitting im rubbish at tiny styrene work... thanks you did give me an idea though
  9. Hey all, ive done a lot of research on other examples of lowering cars on this site but most are classic American cars etc... im having a problem with how to "properly" lower using the existing subframe and NOT "STANCING IT OUT!" (excessive negative camber) MK1 - MK4 golfs had solid rear beams and single front A arms with no adjustable strut mounting position etc... in other words they would not have negative camber. I was thinking about heating and bending the subframe part where the control arms meet the subframe (along the point pictured below) The problem is this will completely throw off the camber b/c the pin to mount brakes and wheels will be angled upwards. SO MY QUESTION: What can I do to keep the wheel mounting position parallel at 0 camber?? IM NOT GOOD at heating, cutting, plastic welding, etc. I will be using 15" Porsche Fuchs from www.scaleproduction.de so theyre wide and staggered with a stretched sidewall (how we used to do it early 2000's until this stupid "stanced" craze took over) thanks guys, sorry for the long post. I AM OPEN TO ANY SUGGESTIONS!
  10. I've loved following this build, especially as Citroen's brilliant quirkiness never gets old lol. I would love to see you put a vinyl or fabric roof on though as the colors, finish, etc are bang on! I've recently gotten back into this hobby and still completely suck... loll, so I'm not sure if that would throw off the scale or open a whole can of (materials) worms?? In any case I cant wait to see more.
  11. deep blue with a camel beige (or even peanut butter) interior if your not going for the Corsa red!
  12. it certainly celebrates the two ugliest parts on the 300c!
  13. It would be fantastic (and slightly too "on the nose American") to see this just being a gasser around an historic British concours visitor parking... Daft, they would call it.
  14. Thanks! I am really looking forward to getting familiar with this site. I feel like the LHS are either all elitist, or way too experienced to help.
  15. Well i have more kits and other assorted 1/24 1/25 and 1/18 scale models than i know what to do with. Some are well over 20 years old and I am terrible at small scale things (Im much more of a 1/10 scale RC guy). So I hope my lurking around will help my inspiration and assure i wont ruin my kits and models. It took me a while to find a forum but ive found some pretty useful info on here thus far. so HEY!
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