The Report function of the forum works well. If you see someone acting up, acting out, or just being an okole, use the Report function. It works! I have it set up so it not only sends me an email, but that email is then marked with a flag, and get's put to the top of my email list. I will try to access/look at the report/topic as soon as possible, but remember, I'm on a six hour time delay, and other mods not only have a life, but a real job as well. k den
Here's a few more. Been kind of quite here. ----- What's brown and sticky?
... a stick! ----- A man went to a psychiatrist. "Doc," he said, "I keep having these alternating recurring dreams. First I'm a teepee, then I'm a wigwam, then I'm a teepee, and then I'm a wigwam. It's driving me crazy. What's wrong with me?" The doctor replied, "It's very simple. You're two tents." ----- My racing snail isn't doing very well in his races at the moment. I've removed his shell to reduce weight and make him more aerodynamic. It hasn't worked. If anything it's made him more sluggish. ------ I've just bought a gun from a tyrannosaurus Rex. He's a small arms dealer.
Up until probably the mid-90's, I used to be able to find them just about everywhere I went. I've found them at Williamsburg Pottery, Radio Shack, convenience stores, dollar stores, auto part stores, gas stations, gift shops, toy stores, drug stores, and on and on. I don't remember ever being in a hobby shop from when I was a teen in the 70's to the late 80's.
I wasn't saying don't do it; I was saying if you were interested in helping veterans, there are better ways. It all depends on what your goal is. Again, the American Legion, VFW, DAV or other veteran service organizations will probably know who will take your donations.
Somehow many of the unopened model kits I pick up in thrift stores seem to have some sort of veteran build program label on them. How effective are those programs to have veterans build models? Not very, from my experience. I would donate cash to legitimate veterans' organizations or volunteer your time to help veterans. Contact your nearest American Legion or VFW to determine who is legitimate. The main interest of those two organizations is the welfare of veterans. They can, and will, help you to provide useful services to veterans, or donate cash to somewhere it will do some good. Just my two cents from someone who spent 16 years punching holes in the ocean.
Unfortunately the Allison Thunderbird kit doesn't have any red taillights included. It has custom taillights molded into the body. Modelhaus had tail lights for the 69s, but that's not an option any longer. I'm considering a custom T-bird that won't require the rear valance. If I decide to do it, you can have mine but it is still only in the planning phases, so it may be a while. Out of curiosity, does your original issue 69 have the T-bird insignia on the C pillar? The Allison's C pillar doesn't.
Most of the pictures and official painting instructions I've seen of WWII submarines in general have antifouling black or dark grey on the bottom side. I don't think red showed up until the 50s for submarines. It is difficult to get reliable color information for German WWII submarines in particular. There can be a lot of variation in color due to things like weather fading, availability of paints, and care taken in application. Sometimes it's best to get it to the nearest close enough and move on. Revell has 4 colors listed in their instructions for two different paint schemes, all grays. I used Panzer Dunkelgrau Model Master 4795 for the bottom of my Revell XXIII from the waterline down.
I'd like to see the 32 finished, or at least more of it. It looks pretty interesting. Then again, the CV could probably be finished this weekend.... I've been following that one since you started it. It's my favorite of your builds.
One thing no one has mentioned so far is that the bulk of the bodywork should be done using plastic and cement. With flares for example, you need to build the basic structure out of plastic, then use the putty to cover the flaws. Most of the filler/putty should be sanded away, leaving what is required (a very thin layer) to fill seams and other flaws. Don't build your body kit of filler alone so that there is 1/4" of putty and nothing else. The first time the body flexes, it will pop off.