Love the stuff - it's all I use for plastic. I prefer the Model Master version - it has a thin metal applicator tube, and it is easier for me to be a little more precise. The Testors branded one has a thick tapered plastic tube. The cement is pretty thin, not thick like the tube glues.
I think you ought to set up a table in front of the store with a huge banner saying "THIS STORE FOLLOWS CORPORATE PROCEDURES! DON'T SHOP HERE!". Face it, you missed out,. Tough luck, try again next time.
The only plastic differences are the color, trunk lid and tail lights. No difference in the rest of the kit, except for the inclusion of lowrider parts in separate bags. Same full moon/salt flat/flat wheels and optional ground effects/aero panels.
They are basically the same car, but the red one is molded in red and has the early (89-91) tail light style (flat at the top, with a square indent over the license plate). The Lowrider one is a 92, is molded in white with the later style (92+) tail light (Crown Victoria style), and has the lowrider parts along with the stock parts. There were other releases, too, I think one was molded in dark blue, and an anniversary edition. All are pretty much the same except for the tail lights as were the real ones. One of my favorite cars and models.
I just bought a 2017 Ford Escape - the base model. When you see "starting at $....", this is what you get. The only (no cost) options are the front license plate holder and CA emissions. It is definitely not manual steering, brakes, windows, transmission, heater and no radio. It is pretty well equipped with 6-speed automatic, traction control, Sync, rear view camera, electronic power steering, power windows, power 4 wheel ABS disks, cupholders galore, and the list goes on. It's what my parents, and until very recently I, would have considered a luxury car. The options go up from there, with park assist, lane control, adaptive cruise control, a no-touch rear door, keyless entry and many, many more. I'm a fairly competent shade-tree mechanic; I've replaced clutches, timing belts, alternators, brakes/rotors, valves, brake lines, points, condensers, coil packs, and adjusted valves, carburetors engine timing and drum brakes on many cars and bikes since the mid 70s. I can diagnose most problems without too much difficulty - I was trained as an electronic technician in the Navy, and have been a computer system administrator since then. This Escape scares the bejeezus out of me. I just know I'm going to take the car in one day because it won't shift right, and the dealership will tell me the Bluetooth module will need to be replaced to fix the transmission, and they'll be right. I, for the first time ever for ANY purchase automotive or not, ended up buying the extended maintenance warranty. When that expires, the car will be traded in on the next technological wonder. No more shade tree mechanic for me with this car or very likely any in the future. Shoot, I'm not sure I can have the tires replaced without a visit to the dealership to have the TPMS reset.
Buying it. Very rarely do I build any car with an engine. I'd rather do just the body and paint, a black interior, and enough suspension to keep the rocker panels off the ground. Metal axles are great.
You're right, Fifi was the B-29, Aluminum Overcast was the B-17, and Diamond Lil was the B-24. All were there. Apparently, there were several WWII aircraft at Carroll County Regional Airport, MD today. http://www.carrollcountyairport.com/events.htm Interesting - a B-17, B-24, and B-25 were visiting. We were near there, but were too late to visit. Maybe I'm glad - 30 minute "flight training" in the TF-51D (2 seat P-51) was $2200. Yikes!
Too bad it was cancelled. I was fortunate enough to spend the weekend watching the WWII Arsenal of Democracy Flyover in DC in 2015. It was an incredible day, watching different flights of almost all WWII aircraft pass 500-1000 feet overhead on the National Mall. I was able to go out to a smaller local airport that weekend where they had several aircraft including a P-51, B-17 (Fifi) and B-24 (Diamond Lil). You could take rides in them, so there were many takeoffs, landings and engine starts. It was an incredible weekend. My wife's father was a B-24 bombardier in WWII who served in Italy. I never got the chance to meet him. He survived the war, but passed before my wife and I met. I certainly hope you get another chance to see them.
As I said, they were kind of hidden. They were on the right aisle going to the rear of the store near the Star Wars kits, in just one of the cement block shelves. There weren't more than 20 or so total when I was there. There certainly wasn't the huge display that couldn't be missed as it was in the past. The other possibility is that they were all sold.
Another thing that can be done with sprue is to fill holes such as spoiler and light bar mounts. Taper the end of a short piece of sprue, maybe ream the hole a bit with a hobby knife to match the taper, and glue the sprue in the hole. When dry, cut the excess sprue off, and file it flush with the body. Minimal, if any, filler will be required. Sometimes you can use longer lengths for plastic axles. Sprues vary widely in length and width, so sometimes it's possible to find one that works. Sometimes you'll find a piece that you can use to adapt one wheel mounting system to another with a bit of creativity and a drill bit. You can use it to create small items like coils, starter motors and other small motors, antennae and their mounts, and so on. A little cutting and shaping, and voila. It's useful as piping in dioramas. I've used it as temporary bracing when doing test fitting of bodies. As you can probably guess, I rarely throw mine out. There's often a piece I can make use of, though it doesn't make much of a dent in my "sprue stash".
The one in Jessup, MD didn't have a lot besides the Lindberg kits. There was an amt 63 Vette, some 53 Vettes, 23 T Vans, Jawbreakers, dune buggies and a few Porsche Boxster and PT Cruisers. Most of those are near the front door kind of hidden. The Lindbergs are in the back.
Exactly. The question was basically at which height does the kit ride? Low, high, or in-between? There's no indication in the instructions of which height, nor any way to adjust it. Not that adjustment would be hard, it's just not described.