Longbox55

Been a long time since I've been under on of those, but I'm pretty sure that the front one is actually plastic on the 1:1, and would be a flat to satin finish black. The one at the very rear of the frame is actually the bar that would be inside the bumper. Most of those I've seen are either gloss black or bare metal.

They also have a very nice Airstream Bambi in 1/24 as well.

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/paint/deluxe-airbrush-kit-95810.html I have one of these myself, and must admit, it's actually not a bad airbrush for the cost.

I was just looking over Jimmy's site, it isn't currently listed. However, Jimmy does have many product he does not necessarily have listed, so it might be worth contacting him to see if it is still available. http://jimmyflintstonestudios.com/?page_id=9

Yes, Modelhaus is no longer in business. In addition, the GMC conversion has not been in their catalog for some time, IIRC they were dropped not long after you got yours, Tommy. GM is very touchy about the GMC brand, not mush in the resin aftermarket for GM because if that.

I've used them on 1:1 parts, too. Not really all that different than using a spray can. Pretty much a one time use, as you would run the propellant out trying to clean it. Only real advantage over spray cans is that you can load it with whatever color you want.

That's my suggestion as well.

89% for me.

1970 and earlier 2wd Chevrolet and GMC trucks were 6x5.5 bolt pattern as well. As mentioned in my first post, using the 4x4 Rally wheel with 4 closed center caps is a very common swap on the older trucks. An example, this is my 1:1 '55 Chevrolet 2wd truck with 4x4 Rallys on it. I do admit, the centers are not the OEM 4x4 center, but rather are from a '99-'06, but it is basically what is common to see on pre '70 GM trucks.

Shawn Carpenter was the only one who made a conversion kit, but he had to stop due to getting a cease and desist letter from GM (They're very touchy about GMC). As far as anything available now, the closest is a diecast of the '58/'59 GMC from M2 in 1/24 scale. It's not perfect, it has the wrong engine and the doors are not correct, but it is a very nice piece otherwise.

You're thinking of the Field Marshal.

Very nice. Just a suggestion, you might consider offering the 6 lug version with 4 plain centercaps as an option. That particular wheel is very popular for use on '70 and older 2wd GM trucks as an inexpensive way to get a wider wheel without going aftermarket. Most vintage trucks fitted with those wheels use 4 of the closed rear caps. Also, for fitting them to the MPC '78/'79 Chevy truck kits which have the full time transfer case, which would not have the lockouts on the front.

Very interesting. If I recall correctly, Pola did several variants of this kit, including one in John Deere colors, plus some assorted implements and wagons/trailers that can hook up to it.

I'm pretty sure the grilles are the same, or any difference would be very minor. The badges on the cowl ('65) and fender ('66) would be the major difference. But that can be easily changed with parts from the '65 pickup kit.

More Suburban info. These are from the 1965 brochure, 1966 is currently not available online.

All the specs for the 1966 Chevrolet Truck line, including Suburban. https://www.gmheritagecenter.com/docs/gm-heritage-archive/vehicle-information-kits/Chevrolet-Trucks/1966-Chevrolet-Truck.pdf

Yes, the size difference is very noticeable. The cab in the back is the pow truck, the one in the front is the Revell Billy Carter truck (1/25 scale).

Another vote for the Deserter and/or any of the earlier variants of that kit. Even being the best one, it does have a few accuracy issues. Overall, the biggest accuracy problem I see is the incorrect 2bbl carb and intake. While that would be ok on the original 2wd release, the 4x4s should have a 4bbl carb. Speaking of the 4x4, that's the other accuracy issue. The transfer case is the NP203 full time version, which is correct for the '78/'79 model years, however, the '80 and up should either have the NP205 ('80) or the NP208 ('81-'8, though the 205 was a delete option). Neither issue is hard to take care of. As far as finding them, try looking at the swap meets at model shows instead of the usual online places. You can find them MUCH more reasonable at shows. I got an unbuilt '78 2wd for $35 at a show a while back, and have seen the '78 first issue 4x4 (red w/multi color stripes) at a recent show for around the same price range. Alternatively, if you go with the Plow Truck kit, or any of its Chevrolet variants, the bed from the wrecker fits right on it with little alterations. You would want to change the transmission to a TH400 or perhaps an SM465 to be more accurate to the heavier truck over the 3 speed that's in the kit. The transfer case is usable as it, as it is the correct NP205 part time case that was optional at the time.

Wrong stripper for the paint type. With the lacquers, you'll want to use rubbing alcohol, preferably 91%. In addition, lye based cleaners like Purple Power really should be kept in a plastic container, as they can be very corrosive to metals, especially aluminum.

The engine from the Ford 9N was a factory option in Ford trucks in '41. They're actually quite rare, as most buyers got the V8 instead due to the lack of performance of the 4 cylinder in a truck. Most of them went into Panel trucks.

A Ford/Ferguson would only be the 9N and 2N Fords, which were badged as such. The 8N did not have nay Ferguson badging, and the Ferguson tractors share no parts with the Ford.

The '53 Ford beds would be nowhere close to being correct. A better choice would be the beds from the AMT '55 Chevy Stepside, which would be an exact match since GM used the same stepside bed from '54-'87. The custom fenders from the AMT '53 Ford, with the indents for the custom tail lights removed, are more accurate than what comes in the '55 kit, though.

A warning for those who are interested in suing the old AMT '60-'63 pickup kits for the long bed (this applies to their SMP counterparts as well), the bed is almost 1/4" wider than the newer Revell and AMT kits. While this isn't a problem at the front of the bed, it can be an issue with the tailgate, Also, the contour of the bedsides is different, with the older kit being straighter at the lower parts of the sides instead of the gentle roll that the newer kits have. I'm not saying that they can't be used, just passing along the info so anyone wanting to get into using one knows what issues they will need to work with. Luc, while I certainly can understand what you're saying, and would love to see them do a 4x4 version, Revell would have to do some major retooling to make it a 4x4. Pretty much the entire chassis would have to be tooled up not only due to the extra parts for the 4x4, but also for the major differences in the chassis to accommodate the 4x4 system. Perhaps they will consider it someday.

For comparison, here's a shot of a TE-20

The TE20 was sold in the US and Canada as the TO20 with some changes. The TO20(Tractor Overseas 20 horsepower) used a Continental Z120 engine instead of the Standard wet liner 4 cylinder that the TE20 (Tractor England 20 horsepower) used. However, from the research I've done, it appears that the kit represents an early TE20, which would have the Continental engine. Other differences are in the brake pedals, the TO20 has both brake pedals on the right side of the tractor, where the TE20 has the left brake pedal on the left side same as the 9 and 2 N Fords. The TO20 also has platforms under the pedals like the 8 N Ford.