Cab Over Cab Forward trucks also allow for a shorter wheelbase which in turn gives a smaller turning radius. Cab over trucks are still very popular for medium duty delivery trucks and fire apparatus due to their better maneuverability on congested city streets.
The 1000 series was basically just the 900 with all the popular options made standard. The badging (American LaFrance scripts) changed a bit over the years but backdating the kit is mostly a matter of looking at photos of a specific piece of equipment.
I think a lot are unfinished metal as well, it has been a long time since I saw a manual transmission but I'm remembering just a cast iron patina, our new trucks (since 2001) are all automatics. I'd have to crawl under one to double check, but as I recall they just have unfinished cast aluminum housings.
I placed an order in mid August, and got my order this week (so 15-16 weeks). I expected a long wait and it was worth it. It is also my birthday next week so nice timing, seems I got myself a very nice present this year.
The dude by the engine is all dressed up, somebody had a fire, at least a small one. They wouldn't be in turnouts and SCBA for a medical. As there is no hose deployed, I'd guess there was either a smell of smoke, or a small fire that the home owner extinguished, but called the fire department to come and check it out.
The Dodge rims would be too small. The Dodge Power Wagon rims were 16", the larger Ford trucks (F5-F8) ran 20" rims, F5/F6 with 5 lug, F7/F8 with 8 lugs. The Italeri Opel Blitz has the right wheels with an 8 lug pattern that would be correct for an F7 or F8. The rims from the C600 could also work, they are not the "widow maker" style, but were an option on that era of truck and are the right size. I don't remember of these are 5 or 8 lug.
The 1950s is kind of a pain finding wheels. Pretty much everybody ran 16" 5 lugs on 1/2 tons, but there wasn't a standard size or lug pattern on the larger trucks like there is today. Each manufacturer had their own ideas about wheel size and number of lugs, so it isn't easy to swap wheels from one brand to another, sometimes not even the same brand year to year. Ford, Dodge and IH were pretty consistent but GM is a real pain changing lug patterns a couple of times.
You know I never did either, but people kept asking me how things work "where do you eat, can you take a shower" etc etc. So I started taking a few photos a few years ago mostly for friends and family members, then I started thinking some of these would make a neat model... so I took more.
It is the size of opening that matters, not area of the booth. A 2x2x2ft booth, requires the same fan as a 2x2x4ft booth, but a 2x4x2ft booth would require a fan twice as big. (HxWxL). It is not just CFM but also air velocity to push the fumes out, a big opening slows the air flow, just as a too small exhaust does. This is a really good article if you want to build a booth comparable (or better) than one of the commercial hobby booths. http://modelpaint.tripod.com/booth2.htm
I've got a 2x2x2 ft booth, with a 485cfm squirrel cage blower. Factoring in the loss due to ducting (6" dia metal) it is around 400-450 cfm. Works great, including the blower I built it for about $200. Based on the article above I am right at the recommended flow for a 2x2 cross flow booth. Many of the commercial booths actually fall a bit short.
Grainger is a great source for shaded pole blowers (aka Squirrel cage), kind of a pain because you have to make an account, but good selection and prices, awesome service. I had my blower within 48 hours of making the order. Most of these blowers require a separate cord / plug since they are generally used as a replacement motor, a heavy duty cord is only $10 or 15 and easy to install.
I'm not sure how seriously you are taking the eyesight issue vs using it as an ice breaker to talk about large scale kits. I've seen this come up with other genres and scales. Scale and fading eyesight really does not work. The larger the scale, the more components are broken into smaller groups for better detail resulting in more small parts, not bigger parts. The smallest parts in a 1/72 kit are not really smaller than the smallest parts in a detailed 1/8 scale kit (individual links in a motorcycle chain are pretty tiny).
I'm actually stealing the hood, grill and hood sides.
Anyway gives me a few ideas, and also supports my thought that this isn't one of those kits sought after for the bits. Seems a pretty generic kit unless you are building a '37 Ford just like the box top.
I was contemplating using the '37 or '38 grill from the Ford truck, just wasn't sure how that would work out. Googling images of '37 Fords doesn't turn up much, most of the customs being quite similar to the kit. It just doesn't seem to have anywhere near the variety of the early 30s Fords.
I forgot about this one, now that gives me some ideas, I could probably scratch a hood and grill somewhat like that which would actually make an interesting contrast the my other project.
That could work as well, I was also thinking maybe some sort of Mad Max thing.