Hard to say for sure as there are differences in resin wheels and kit mounting styles. You could get lucky and get a set of wheels that match up well, or you could get a set that require a bit of fabrication to make things line up. Also a huge variation on quality of resin parts, on the good end some are nice and crisp and can be mistaken for plastic parts from a kit, on the bad end you have to do a lot of clean up and reshaping, most fall somewhere in between. Couple different theories on prep for painting, soaking in Westleys Blech Wite (a tire cleaner) is one of the more popular methods. 5 min epoxy or CA glue (super glue) work well on resin and plastic.
KJ790 is a member here who casts truck parts, under the name Double Take Replicas. He has 2 and 5 hole Budds. http://kdhumphr.wix.com/double-take-replicas
There is a better photo of the built cab on the AITM site. I think you are correct on the issue but I think the issue is also there on the built up, just hidden due to photo quality / angle. Should be easy to fix. http://www.aitruckmodels.com/pages/ck97gmcdf7000crackerbox.html http://www.aitruckmodels.com/pages/ck98gmccrackerboxdaycab.html
Here is a short article with some photos. Looks like a rather simple scratchbuild to me. Just some tubing and flat stock with a little creative gizmology inside the tube. I bet ones of those disposable cones the doctor uses to look in your ears would work great for the insides. http://www.curbsideclassic.com/blog/cc-capsule-firestone-thermador-car-cooler-swamp-cooler/
I built the box from the floor up leaving the roof for last so I had access to the door mechanism. I don't care about working mechanisms like opening doors so I didn't bother with tape just gluing the door closed. Besides being more difficult if the door opened I would feel obligated to add some cargo. I cut along the grooves to separate the slats then glued them into place. I did this for two reasons, one the door where it curves into the top was putting a lot of pressure on the tracks, and second, the door looked kind of like a bent piece of sheet plastic, not a bunch of individual slats. Cutting the slats apart and then gluing them individually looks more like individual slats of the 1-1 doors, plus looking at the real thing is seems like they never quite match up 100% tending to get dings along the edges and a few just slightly out of whack. Still needs some detail painting and some weathering on the door, but it has been sidelined by other projects.
I had trouble getting it to sit flush the last time around. I could hold it in place with light pressure, but it would lift up leaving a gap when I stopped pressing down. Probably just a matter of getting the hinges just right. Not an uncommon problem with tilt hoods, but being a shorty it seems to be worse than some.
I've got the Ford LN going at the moment, getting the roll up door right was a pain, but other than that I didn't have any serious issues with the cargo box. The truck hood can be somewhat fiddly, I glued it down the last time I built one, I plan an building it with an opening hood this time around. Other than those two issues it is a fairly painless kit to build.
Excited about the Bronco, and share the hope for a half top "pickup" option. Curious about the engine, it would be nice to have another 6, but expect it will come with the optional 289 or 302 V8.
Side marker lights became a requirement in 1968. I don't think there were many changes during its production other than engines offered, so this could potentially represent all but the first 2 years of production, and possibly even those with a little work (removing the side markers).
Wow, based on your scratchbuilt models I have to wonder if the resin actually saved you any work. I have a pair of resin Anniversary Seagraves (one open cab, one closed sedan type) that I believe came from Uptown Automotive. These are more along the lines of the resin kits most are used to, not simply a shell more or less shaped correctly. Amazing how resin casting has advanced from the early days, the best these days are at a level equal to mass market styrene kits and the resin much easier to work with.