sportandmiah

Great idea!

Another forum also made an Off Topic section years ago because Political talk was very popular. But the owner also made it better by making the Off Topic board not appear in the "New Posts"....if the reader wanted to view off topic political rant, he would click on that thread. This allowed the majority to read new threads without having to navigate through 50 threads about George Bush. I haven't visited there in awhile but if memory serves it worked out well.

Harry, I have one suggestion, and this is in all seriousness: Retire from moderating. As you know I was a mod here, and looking back it was the worst job I've ever had. I had no time devoted to modeling. Rather, I spent my modeling time reading and arguing and editing posts and threads. I gained more enemies and headaches than ever. Nowadays I spend more time building and I am a lot more happy. The amount of cars I've built over the past 12 months totals more than I've built in my lifetime. Pass the torch on to others who will be good as Mods. Let someone else do the dirty work. Doing this will allow you to relax and build. Merely my two cents.

Maybe it's not us Harry. If so many people are screwing it up, maybe you need to change things up. People continually offer ways to update the format of this place but are shot down. You need to think outside the box once in a while. We can't all be perfect like you.

Subscribed!

Microset is applied on the body just prior to decal application. It helps the decal stick. Once decal is applied, I gently Qtip away any bubbles. Microsol is now applied ONLY if the decal doesn't sit flat. Microsol is not weak, one just has to know how to use it. An extreme example would be if you wanted to decal a golf ball. The decal obviously won't just neatly wrap around it. Apply liberal amounts of Microsol on top of the decal after its applied, and let it sit. The decal will wrinkle and will appear to be ruined...its not. The decal will rip very easily so tread very very lightly. Patience is key. After an hour or so the decal will cover the golf ball and look like it was painted on. This can be sped up by using a hair dryer, add more microsol, more hair drier. This pic of a Porsche 934..the decal above the rear wheel...Microsol was used to soften the decal to properly take the shape of the fender. I used a hair drier to speed the process.

This is a Lindberg 1/16th scale kit. It went together super easy. This was my first try at weathering and i think it went pretty well.

Be careful with duplicolor blacks, as most of them have some sort of metal or flake...not noticible on 1:1 cars but very noticible on small model cars.

Awesome! I wasnt aware SM did a transkit...was it the one with the kit included?

Hobby Lobby has the finer grit stuff. And using 400 grit sandpaper is crazy low....I start at nothing less than 1000....unless im trying to take some serious material off.

Bought mine at Harbor Freight for $15.00. Best money I've ever spent. I have put tons of bodies and parts in it from almost every major model brand and had ZERO problems. I did add a $2.00 power switch. As long as youre using it to dry model parts and bodies, theres no need for a temp control.

For an out of the box build, a few bucks for paint and clear. For a nicer build I splurge on carbon fiber decals and photo etch. On average I spend and extra $10-$20 The most money I have in one kit...my Ferrari F1-2000. Kit $30 Carbon Fiber Templates $30 Marlboro Decals $15 Top Studio Super Detail Kit $75 So total about $150.00 I have yet to build it. Waiting until I think im ready to undertake such a build.

ScratchX is great once sanding is done.

A few suggestions, as I saw no rules, guidelines, etc.posted on their website. 1. I think this is important, and that is to create one new category for the all stars, for the heavy hitters, for the pro's, for the 1%. Call it the "Professional Category". This is where contestants enter their super detailed, super modified, super painted, cars/trucks. If you think you vehicle is THE BEST around, then enter this category. ANY vehicle or motorcycle can enter. Make the "Best of Show" award come ONLY from this category. By creating this category and element of competition, it will give the other 99% of us regular model builder a chance at competing in the other categories. And it will make the 1% have to make a choice of whether they want to enter the standard categories or go for the "professional" category. 2. A 1st Place award and AT LEAST a 2nd place Runner Up award for each category. 3. A contestant can win only 1 award per category...IE...John Doe can't place 1st and 2nd in the open wheel category. But he could place 1st in each category. 4. Make available online some type of rundown of each category. I had no idea what categories were represented today until I walked into the show. From there I scrambled to decide where to put each model. 5. Almost half of the entrants looked like they were in the custom category. I suggest expanding the Custom category, say, to 4dr, 2dr, Drags, Trucks/Vans, etc. 6. Closed wheel category needs expansion. There is Lemans, Drag, GT3, GT2, German Touring, Nascar, Rally, FIA, and numerous others. These are merely my thoughts, not trying to ruffle any feathers. Regardless, I'll be there next year.

I had a great time at the show today, met some really nice guys, and scored a few kits. Kudos to the organizers! But I do have one rant: the awards. There were so many entries and they were all spectacular builds. But only 1 award for each category doesn't seem fair. Awards seemed to go only a handful of guys yet there were easily 150+ models on display and all award worthy. What I was really counting on was a chance for my 3 year old daughters entry to win an award (which was a trainwreck but i love it.) Hopefully Im not the only one bothered by this. Otherwise it was a great show and cant wait until next year.

Nicely done nacho.

I didn't see any times mentioned...what time do the doors open?

www.ipmsstockholm.org/colorcharts/stuff_eng_colorcharts_gunze.htm

Scale Production, KA Models, Aoshima, Top Studio, Fujimi...they all make BBS wheels. HLJ.com is the best and most affordable place to order.

Cool thx!

This is awesome. Thanks!

I've seen where builders use a picture of a 1:1 speedometer, livery, etc. and use it on the model. How do you shrink the picture so it will fit in the car?

I do apologize, for I am the pessimistic fool. Your work-in-progress thread proved me wrong. Beautiful work Gaurav!

I've looked at some of your other builds Gaurav and they are very nice. The pictures of those other cars are crisp and clear, and the cars look like very well built models. But this Aston Martin I am having some doubts. There appears to be a lot of Photo Shop involved. The pictures are very pixelated when zoomed in. This appears to either be the real 1:1 car, or a diecast model. Please prove me wrong. I'd like to see some clear close up shots of the interior, engine, bottom of chassis, and suspension. If I am wrong, than I apologize for making a fuss, and indeed I will be the one to look like a fool.

Interesting car. Why do some of the pictures have door handle markings and others don't?