sportandmiah

Aoshima has really stepped up their game over the past few years by producing great kits. Plus, the kits can be re released in other liveries and versions ala Fujimi. Revell and the corvette C6R comes to mind as a kit that could have been a dozen or so great race car kits, but only produced one or two. Aoshima is also very in tune with social networking and uses Facebook to its fullest extent. This is simply the best form of free advertising available. And Aoshima doesn't just show a pic of a possible future release, they give you some background AND a release date projection that is accurate.

Lovely build Jay!

Its fine. Testors lacquer is thick and yellowish. Thin it with lacquer thinner and airbrush on. But not over white.

The dehydrator had nothing to do with the bubbles. It would have bubbled anywhere.

Most likely you sprayed too much paint at once, which didn't allow the propellant to properly gas out, which causes paint to bubble. What brand of paint?

Depends. X22 can be acrylic or enamel depending what country you live in.

I believe almost all clears will eventually unless there's UV protectant in it. Mr.Clear has a UV version that I've yet to try.

Lacquer over decals will work but with many light mist coats to start off...otherwise the decals will peel off. Testors, tamiya, duplicolor will all work.

This should be in the magazine as well! Following.

I've taken a slower approach to building on limited summer time. If I find a free half hour, I'll take a few parts and scrape, sand, and completely go over the parts until they are perfect. Once those parts are done, it's back to the honey-do list. It might not be much, a little is better than nothing.

Like!

Thanks Paul. I too plan on turning some parts as well, but I need to grind my HSS bits first. I haven't used my Sherline In a few years so it will be nice to machine again. Can we see some pics of what you are makimg?

I just bought a Mr. Polisher II from HLJ for $12.99. It uses 250 grit up to 2000 grit pads.

Throwing paint away will not solve his problem. I suggest (taking any and all precautions) decanting the paint (however you feel comfortable poking a hole in the can) and storing the paint in a solvent safe container/jar. From there, you could airbrush it.

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Thanks men for the compliments. Mike, I outlined GREEN for every kit part that needed Photo Etch. This was important because I wanted to be sure I placed the etchings in the correct order. One part may need 3 etchings to complete the part, and those 3 etchings were not numerically ordered or placed next to each other on the fret. An example was etchings #3 + #27 + #18 needed to be built in that order to complete one part. With all the small parts, I wanted to keep track of each part, and to accurately place each etching. Probably a little overkill, but I strive to make each car better by avoiding past mistakes. Thanks for looking!

HLJ seems to have the best selection of Acu items. Even if it's sold out, you can still purchase and once it comes back in stock you will be charged.

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Spent the past couple days applying CF decals to the appropriate parts. Generous amounts of Micro Sol was applied to let the decals conform to the odd shapes and contours. Ironically, the most complex decals went on very smoothly without a hitch. But the 2 or 3 decals on flat surfaces gave me a lot of problems. The parts dried in a dehydrator for a few hours, and Testors Lacquer Gloss was airbrushed on to seal the decals.

Right away.

Wait a few, and check your paypal account as well. As stated, "Out of Stock" and "Backordered" items can still be purchased and will be charged once the item is back in stock. Also make sure you didn't place them in your personal warehouse.

Acrylic paint (Tamiya, Model Master, etc.) on car parts and then a dehydrator ($15.00 Harbor Freight) is typically all I use. I can paint a part and use a dehydrator or hair drier and be gluing in minutes.

That is a great find!

Joe I know of no better way than what you described.

A kit from Tamiya, and I'm going to add SM Carbon Fiber Templates as well as Studio 27 Photo Etch kit. Because there are so many etched parts and carbon fiber decals, I wanted to label and color code each one in the instructions. There are numerous etched parts that require multiple steps, and of course are not numerical in order. This has taken a couple hours but will greatly benefit when it's time to put pieces together.