Sharpen Trim Lines

[Mike Chernecki]

Working on the Revell 1957 Chevy Convertible. The side trim edges are very soft and after paint will not have a good line to foil against. Any tips of sharpening trim lines? I thought of scribing a line around the trim, but that would leave a trough around the trim that wouldn't look right.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Not only may it leave a "trough" but if the trim edges are already "soft", I can't imagine that it would be any easier to scribe & keep your lines straight than it would just to foil them.

Try the "tape" trick.

I do this all of the time with faint trim & it works well.

Even areas that have virtually no trim relief at all will look good by just laying a thin strip of blue painters tape down where you want the trim edge to be after applying the foil & then letting your knife blade ride along the edge of the tape to cut the foil.

Anybody that has built virtually any of the AMT annuals from around 1959 to 1961 with tail fin trim knows that generally the trim edges are non existent.

After applying a multi-coat paint job, they pretty much disappear entirely.

But with a little strategic tape work & a sharp X-acto blade, you will never know the difference.

 

Steve

 

 

[jaymcminn]

I'm a big fan of using a flat file to sharpen up the edges of trim... it's part of my body prep on practically every kit I build. Make sure your file has the cutting surface on the flat surface only and not the edges to keep from gouging your bodywork. Go slow and constantly check your progress. Finish with a fine sanding stick or 800 grit sandpaper. This method provides nice sharp lines to foil against and also reduces the sometimes-too-thick look of kit trim. As always, practice on something you don't care about before tackling something rare or valuable!

[Mike Chernecki]

Thanks for the tips, will try them out.

[peteski]

I'm wits Steve: I often use a strip of masking tape applied to a model as an edge for the knife to follow when I cut the foil.  This works even when there is no edge on the model to follow (since the tape acts as a nice sharp edge).  This technique works very well.

 

For example, on these 1:32 scale models that is how I trimmed the top edge of the fin on the blue Caddy

And again, the chrome on the edge of the fin.

[vintagercr]

I like to idea of the masking tape and will have to try it as I have a few annuals I want to re-do

[Zoom Zoom]

I often cut very thin strips of foil that are close if not exactly the width I need, and carefully apply it so little or no trimming is necessary, especially on trim that has poor engraved detail to use as a cutting guide. I need to try the tape trick as well, though I'm pretty satisfied w/my method, which is easy enough even if/when my hands aren't totally steady.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Zoom Zoom said:

I often cut very thin strips of foil that are close if not exactly the width I need, and carefully apply it so little or no trimming is necessary, especially on trim that has poor engraved detail to use as a cutting guide. I need to try the tape trick as well, though I'm pretty satisfied w/my method, which is easy enough even if/when my hands aren't totally steady.

I cut thin strips of foil like you do for certain pieces of trim that are completely straight, mainly for interior door trim, but that only works well for straight pieces.

If your trim is curved or tapered or oddly shaped in any way, it's difficult to get it cut to the correct shape & size.

I use the tape method for everything from side spears to window trim.

It gives you perfectly clean & straight edges on everything you foil.

If you cut your tape strips thin enough, you can even get it to bend around wheel wells to give you a nice clean edge.

 

Steve

 

 

[Zoom Zoom]

Pretty much what I do (pre-cut strips for wheel edge moldings), or line up one edge and trim another. Have you tried the new Tamiya tape for curves? It's plastic and has a good, clean edge that's more precise than regular crepe-paper masking tape. It might be ideal for making a temporary cutting edge. It's similar to 3M style masking tape for curves intended for 1:1 bodyshop use.

[StevenGuthmiller]

1 hour ago, Zoom Zoom said:

Pretty much what I do (pre-cut strips for wheel edge moldings), or line up one edge and trim another. Have you tried the new Tamiya tape for curves? It's plastic and has a good, clean edge that's more precise than regular crepe-paper masking tape. It might be ideal for making a temporary cutting edge. It's similar to 3M style masking tape for curves intended for 1:1 bodyshop use.

I have tried Tamiya tape for this purpose, but I prefer blue painters tape.

Painters tape is cheaper & a little thicker giving you a little more of an edge for the blade to ride up against.

Plus I like the darker color.

That gives you a little better contrast between the tape & the blade & makes it easier to see what you're doing.

I use a steel ruler to cut a clean, straight edge on the pieces of tape before I use them.

 

Steve

[Snake45]

21 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

I cut thin strips of foil like you do for certain pieces of trim that are completely straight, mainly for interior door trim, but that only works well for straight pieces.

If your trim is curved or tapered or oddly shaped in any way, it's difficult to get it cut to the correct shape & size.

I use the tape method for everything from side spears to window trim.

It gives you perfectly clean & straight edges on everything you foil.

If you cut your tape strips thin enough, you can even get it to bend around wheel wells to give you a nice clean edge.

 

Steve

 

 

Steve, those are both beautiful! Don't believe I've seen either one of them before. You are DA MAN!