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Jaguar D-Type XKD 606


FabbricaP

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Hi all,

Finally got started in earnest on the engine bay..

Got the distributor wired using MFH wires and spark plug boots from RB motion. The plug lead separator was made from a chopstick and painted with clear brown acrylic. Also mocked up what I will be using for the fuel injection metering unit. I just cut up a spare Holley carburetor part from a Monogram Shelby Cobra kit for this.

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Reference image for my next step - installing and piping the fuel injection.

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Also got started on the brake master cylinder.

Here is how it originally looked before some modification.

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Reference picture

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I used Detail Master compression fittings and 24-gauge copper wire for the piping.

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Thanks for looking in!

 

 

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McQueen owned an XKD sports car   it was at Amelia Island three years ago   really really really nice

random thought:   the profil 24 short note kit would make an accurate one -  just add the windshield and modify the rear deck 

with the folded top

I think more accurate than the old revel (?) kit 

I mite try it  ....

 

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6 hours ago, philo426 said:

Great job! Steve McQueen had a British Racing Green D Jag!

3 hours ago, afx said:

Impressive work Jason.

Thanks for the comments gentlemen. Trying a lot of things I’ve never done before with this one but learning much as well. 

 

3 hours ago, absmiami said:

McQueen owned an XKD sports car   it was at Amelia Island three years ago   really really really nice

random thought:   the profil 24 short note kit would make an accurate one -  just add the windshield and modify the rear deck 

with the folded top

I think more accurate than the old revel (?) kit 

I mite try it  ....

 

I’d like to try Profil24’s short nose or a Revell XKSS as well, even if it was just for the Weber carbs. I think Weber carbs look much better on this engine, but the particular car I’m building was one of the last works D-types and was fitted with the new (at the time) Lucas fuel injection.

Edited by FabbricaP
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the Profil24 kit is better in a number of respects - including - I think - more accurate body and chassis and a better engine by far 

the   Heller E jag engine and the Tamiya 6 cyl jag engines are also options but the kit engine in the Profil24 kit is quite good

 

 

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If money is tight, I'd go with the ROG Jaguar XKSS as they do build up quite nice but with a couple caveats.

I mentioned this before in an earlier comment you have to make sure you absolutely check the height of the engine in relation to the height of the cowl during assembly. Failing to do this will leave the hood sticking up in the air, as Revell didn't quite engineer this correctly in this area. It wouldn't hurt to shave the engine mounts down a bit to lower the engine as this will keep it lowered as much as possible while building it up. I believe the engine in the 1:1 was canted a bit to the side..........I believe that may be where the problem lies as ROG might have not got that detail correct.

55 minutes ago, absmiami said:

the Profil24 kit is better in a number of respects - including - I think - more accurate body and chassis and a better engine by far 

the   Heller E jag engine and the Tamiya 6 cyl jag engines are also options but the kit engine in the Profil24 kit is quite good

Yes, I had to do some modifying of the the ROG head in the kit as it was not "deep" enough to suit my tasted for a proper Jaguar straight six. It was just too shallow, and I hated the way it looked. The other kits you mentioned do have better engines but for those on a budget........get ready to do some modifying/scratchbuilding if you want it to be right.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Some more progress..

Mocked up the engine bay and test-fitted the front cowling... true to the real car it looks like it's gonna be a tight squeeze getting everything to fit under there.

Thanks.

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I also added brake lines using Top Studio and Hobby Design fittings with 28 gauge gold colored wire.

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The corrugated duct is a MFH part made of soft white metal. I'll be drilling the front end to simulate some electrical wires running to & from the ignition coil/alternator etc.

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Also tried making straps for the spare tire. I used an aluminum can, 28 gauge wire and leather sheets from MFH. Not very accurate but it was good practice for future builds for sure.

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Hi all. Posting some more progress on the engine..

Attached the fuel injection piece and added fuel lines using wire. I also got the engine fixed in place and mocked up the engine bay with the other components in place. Bonnet fit is still a problem and I've got some adjusting to do before it will close properly.. Thanks for looking 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here's my progress so far.. apologies for the many pictures..

Almost finished with the engine bay so I decided to take some outdoor pictures with a display base I made for this..

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Also finished up some hinges for the boot. I used aluminum from a can, needles and small rubber caps from a sewing kit.

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I'll be attaching rivets from Hobby Design fix the hinges.

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To secure the boot when closed, I used tiny magnets from Zero Designs attached to the body and boot lid. These magnets are small but very strong!

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This is the front subframe with brake lines and ignition coil attached with some other engine bay pieces before I attached them. I made a heat shield out of aluminum can and cigarette box foil. I also used PE header flanges from Detail Master. All the PE cable ties are from KA Models.

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Underside of the front subframe..

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Thanks for looking!

 

Edited by FabbricaP
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