JollySipper Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 I'm needing to find a cheaper alternative to the DupliColor that I've grown to love because the stuffs $11 a can now.... I'm thinking of giving Krylon a try. Does anyone have pics of models with Krylon as the final paint? I'm a slick and shiny person, so those kinds of paint jobs would be the most helpful.... Just out of the can, the enamels seem to look kinda 'rubbery' to me. Would wet sanding then clearing help with the look of it? What kind of variety do they have as far as colors go? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 I don't normally use Krylon for a final finish on model cars, but I did paint this glue bomb rebuild '68 GTO with their red. This is NOT clear-coated; it's just 3 or 4 coats of the Krylon red polished out with Wrights's Silver Cream. I tried to paint a Chevelle Wagon with a Krylon blue, but didn't like how it was turning out. I found the stuff strips right off with 92% rubbing alcohol, so, no harm, no foul. Currently I'm working on a dune buggy I just painted with Krylon Shimmer (metalflake) blue. It was pretty shiny right out of the can but I'm rubbing it out with the Wright's for a little more shine, and it seems to be polishing up nicely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobraman Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 That GTO looks good. I have not had a lot of luck with the Testors brand. I had a Studebaker I painted with the Testors yellow and it took over a month to dry enough to handle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
935k3 Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 Don't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Brown Posted January 27, 2020 Share Posted January 27, 2020 I used Krylon on a couple of recent builds. I got results consistent with the price. I decanted it so I could spray it with an airbrush. Even thinned close to 50% paint/ 50% thinner, it still dried with a pebbly finish. I was able to polish most of it out, but I still wasn’t too happy with the finish. “Rubbery” is a good description of the paint. It’s best left to painting lawn furniture. I’ve had great results with lacquers from Mr Color, Tamiya, Splash Paint, Gravity Colors-Spain, and Zero Paint. They’re more expensive than Krylon or Rust-O-Leum, but the results are worth it, IMHO. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JollySipper Posted January 27, 2020 Author Share Posted January 27, 2020 It might be my only option....... I can get a nice slick finish with them, I just don't like the rubbery look to them. unless There's a way to get cheap lacquers in a spray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenGuthmiller Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 (edited) One option, although it might not be viable for you as it requires an airbrush, is to mix your own colors using Testors jar enamels. I have used Testors flat enamel in the past and clear coated them with either Testors enamel or lacquer clear coats. Flat enamels are nice for spraying because they are less prone to running or sagging, don't hide detail, and dry very quickly. Be wary of spraying enamel clear over light colors though as it is very likely to yellow in very short order. I'm sure that you could use flat sprays just as effectively as an air brush. Just some thoughts on a technique to try. This '53 Ford was sprayed with custom mixed flat enamel and clear coated with Testors lacquer and polished. Steve Edited January 28, 2020 by StevenGuthmiller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plowboy Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 Krylon can be sanded, cleared and polished. I've sprayed TS-13 over three Krylon paint jobs. Dull Cote over another. Best advice I can give is make sure you read the directions and check the recoat window. It's usually before an hour or after twenty-four. The only Krylon I had an issue with rough texture was a satin finish. But, I was able to sand it smooth and clear over it. I polished the clear once it was dry. It was on this model. This model just got a single coat of clear. This model was the first that I painted with Krylon and how I learned about the recoat window the hard way. It has Dull Cote over it. I have a Pinto in the same color with polished clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moparfarmer Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 13 hours ago, JollySipper said: I'm needing to find a cheaper alternative to the DupliColor that I've grown to love because the stuffs $11 a can now.... I'm thinking of giving Krylon a try. Does anyone have pics of models with Krylon as the final paint? I'm a slick and shiny person, so those kinds of paint jobs would be the most helpful.... Just out of the can, the enamels seem to look kinda 'rubbery' to me. Would wet sanding then clearing help with the look of it? What kind of variety do they have as far as colors go? Any help will be greatly appreciated! Thanks.... Here is a 63 Chev I did with Krylon Fusion enamel..Cleared with Duplicolor Acrylic Enamel..Polished with 4000 wet the done with Meguiar's Scratch X2.0 then finished with Meguiar's Gold Class Paste..I was leary of the Krylon because of the bad stuff I've heard..I usually can with Duplicolor Perfect Match..$17.95 can in Canada then clear with the same as described..To me its hit and miss with Krylon..I've bought a Panther Pink look alike I'am going to try on either a Challenger or Duster using the same technique.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LL3 Model Worx Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 I've been having good luck with testors/ model master enamels... Using lacquer thinner will help with the cure time, but I still have to play the waiting game for at least a few weeks. I've heard of the dehydrator method, but I'm fairly patient (acquired over time) so I prep and paint my body colors first, so I can build the rest of the kit while it does its thing, so that helps with the waiting also. I absolutely do NOT reccomend using testors spray cans... they are absolutely junk. The paint inside is great stuff, so decanting is good, but the can itself as a delivery method is terrible, and doesn't allow for using lacquer thinner to aid in drying time. LMCPP Light mist coats, patience, polish out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JollySipper Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 Thanks for the very helpful replies.... Seeing what can be done with these gives me some assurance that I'll be able to work with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted January 28, 2020 Share Posted January 28, 2020 18 hours ago, JollySipper said: I just don't like the rubbery look to them. I don't understand what you mean by "rubbery look." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JollySipper Posted January 28, 2020 Author Share Posted January 28, 2020 1 hour ago, Snake45 said: I don't understand what you mean by "rubbery look." It's just the finish they have right out of the can, like what you have painted looks coated with 'rubber'... it's not like the look of a cleared lacquer. Your Goat looks really good, btw, I guess because you polished it....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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