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1930 Ford delivery Rod


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Been building this for a couple of weeks. It started as a monogram ford coupe but I fancied something different. I made up a new longer frame using the kit crossmembers then gave it a bit of a zee so I could use some motobitz jag rear and mustang 2 type front suspension. The lower front suspension arms both fell apart on me so i used them as a tamplate to build some stronger ones. Since I zee'd the frame I then had to modify the front fenders to suit which also had the benefit of lowering the fenders over the wheels. The wheels are also resin motobitz pieces being 18x8 front and 20x10 rear and i went with the artilery style centres. It was at this point i cut the rear from the body, and added some small wedges above the doors before chopping the top 3mm. For the seat I am using 2 clearly scale pro touyring buckets modified to be more like the modern bench seats from glide. I've made a smoothed 40 ford style dash and will be adding the stock model a gagues to it. The only engine I had available to me when I started this is the hemi from a revell charger kit mounted a little higher than normal to try and hide the scale difference, with a scratchbuilt induction. The metal pipes on the induction are electrical connectors. The box on the back of my inspiration toy was just square but I decided to make the front and rear panels follow the a profile and flow a little better. My next task is to build an interior and floor so I can cut the box sides to fit the fenders and arches. I will be modifying the rear of the box some more once this is done so the irs can be seen since its such a nice piece of kit. This was very nearly a tow truck but I think this idea will be a little more unique

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The support rods wouldn't have to be present in as much as this is a model. Bills72sj's suggestion about clearing the engine might be the best idea to follow on this. I have seen 1:1 cars where the builder has had the support rods actually bend around the engine but it just didn't look right. Depending on how high the Radiator Shell is mounted the rods might run under the Fuel Injection Stacks. 

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8 hours ago, Bills72sj said:

Quite a bit of customizing there. I would go with thin chrome rods but only if the follow the body line. If the engine is in the way I would leave them off rather than relocate them.

 

8 minutes ago, espo said:

The support rods wouldn't have to be present in as much as this is a model. Bills72sj's suggestion about clearing the engine might be the best idea to follow on this. I have seen 1:1 cars where the builder has had the support rods actually bend around the engine but it just didn't look right. Depending on how high the Radiator Shell is mounted the rods might run under the Fuel Injection Stacks. 

thanks guys, I think I'll leave them off since it will be supported pretty well by the fenders, especially since theres a lot more side support with the deeper fenders

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A little more done. I cant remember who's thread I saw this done on recently here, but after seeing their thread and how they fixed the trim on their coupe I decided to copy them on this. Until I saw their thread I hadn't noticed how wrong the trim is so I sanded all the body lines away and replaced them with half round strips. I also carried the trim around the box body  and redid the roof but i've not taken pics of it yet,

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Some more work tonight. The fenders have been putting up a fight so I made the decision to glue them to the chassis and build the rears up with tubs which I then used to get them together. Instead of using fresh plastic i used some scraps for the inner sections and will be sanding them down flush before the filler goes on. To enable me to use the jag rear end the rear is about 5 or 6mm wider than stock. No stance pics just now but it has a nice rake and is very low. Next job after the fenders are filled is to cut out the rear arches from the body. For the rear door I'm thinking to set the stock rear window into the body and scribe a single door. Still lots more to do and when its finished only the grille will be stock as literaly everything else is either scratched or heavily modded and I'm having lots of fun with it to the point I've been getting up at stupid o clock to work on it, and i'm someone that likes his sleep, lol. The frame is straight, its just a bad photo angle

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