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crowe-t

Glue for Clear Acetate?

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I need to glue a window made from clear acetate in place.  The problem is the clear window goes in from the outside so clear 5 minute epoxy might not be a good option since it eventually yellows.

Will Micro Krystal Klear, Testors Clear Parts Cement or Formula 560 Canopy glue hold the Acetate in place? 

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I use Aleene's tacky glue for all glass, dries clear....S321934.jpg.6fe2b307833944024a5b218137d958b6.jpg

Edited by SCRWDRVR

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Either of these will hold acetate?

What type of glue is Mod Podge and Aleene's Tacky Glue?

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Don't know about the Mod Podge, but I've seen Chris use that stuff in all of his videos... I plan on buying a bottle of that stuff next time I go to a hobby shop....

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The Aleene’s is similar to elmers glue holds the window’s in place nicely, also won’t damage the glass if you need to get it out later it will come out and not leave glue marks on it. 

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10 minutes ago, SCRWDRVR said:

The Aleene’s is similar to elmers glue holds the window’s in place nicely, also won’t damage the glass if you need to get it out later it will come out and not leave glue marks on it. 

Is Aleene's stronger than Micro Krystal Klear, Testors Clear Parts Cement & Formula 560 Canopy glue?

Will Aleene's hold clear acetate?

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I've used Crafter's Pick with great results. Cleans up with water.  Available at Michael's for under $7 for a bottle that will last a long while.

 

 

Edited by Watertown

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I doubt that it is actually acetate.  That is old-school. Likely it is PETE, PVA, Lexan, Polystyrene, or some other similar modern clear plastic.  But regardless of what the material is, since you aren't using solvent cement, the material is irrelevant.

 

From the glues you mentioned, ti seems to me like the Formula 560 Canopy glue will likely do the trick.  It is after all designed for gluing clear plastic canopy to a fuselage.  So, it should hold a clear windshield to a model car body.  But it might take a while to dry.

Edited by peteski

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49 minutes ago, peteski said:

I doubt that it is actually acetate.  That is old-school. Likely it is PETE, PVA, Lexan, Polystyrene, or some other similar modern clear plastic.  But regardless of what the material is, since you aren't using solvent cement, the material is irrelevant.

 

From the glues you mentioned, ti seems to me like the Formula 560 Canopy glue will likely do the trick.  It is after all designed for gluing clear plastic canopy to a fuselage.  So, it should hold a clear windshield to a model car body.  But it might take a while to dry.

I have Formula 560 Canopy glue.  I believe it's a stronger bond than Micro Krystal Klear and Testors Clear Parts Cement.  Since i already have it I'll give it a try.

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1 hour ago, crowe-t said:

I have Formula 560 Canopy glue.  I believe it's a stronger bond than Micro Krystal Klear and Testors Clear Parts Cement.  Since i already have it I'll give it a try.

I don’t think you could go wrong with any of them...

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I use the Testors on a lot of different things/materials you might think wouldn't stick.

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10 hours ago, crowe-t said:

Is Aleene's stronger than Micro Krystal Klear, Testors Clear Parts Cement & Formula 560 Canopy glue?

Will Aleene's hold clear acetate?

I've never used any of those glues so I honestly couldn't say it's not the strongest glue but your usually not pushing on glass much after the install, I'm assuming your acetate is not very thick and pretty light weight so I don't think it would have any trouble holding it in place. I use it for all my glass in kits including windows and lights, I will sometimes use it for mirrors also because it won't damage the paint and you can clean off any you get where you don't want it just wiping it. 

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I tried gluing the acetate window in the frame but had to remove it.  Glue seeped under the window and made a mess.  I cleaned it off and will try again.  The problem I'm having is the window goes in from the front, unlike most model cars where the window goes in from behind.  The glue was looking a bit sloppy.

Should I thin the glue with water?  Maybe I should make a thin frame to go around the window to cover where the glue is? 

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12834F86-09CD-4296-BB9E-47C924F8DD11.jpeg.a1afe144d3a92917e344394ee843d45c.jpeg

This is a narrow clear double sided tape I’ve used for gluing in windows. I’ve used it by itself and with glued in sides as well.

i bought it at Michael’s in the scrapbook aisle.

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39 minutes ago, Tom Geiger said:

12834F86-09CD-4296-BB9E-47C924F8DD11.jpeg.a1afe144d3a92917e344394ee843d45c.jpeg

This is a narrow clear double sided tape I’ve used for gluing in windows. I’ve used it by itself and with glued in sides as well.

i bought it at Michael’s in the scrapbook aisle.

Do you have any pictures of the windows you installed using this tape?  I'd like to see how it looks on the side where the window attaches.

The recess where the window attaches is very thin.  About 1mm.  Will this tape hold?

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9FE5A2F8-EA79-4DDC-A579-E4845343FC00.jpeg.ef52592bd89b1a37b041f4657d40974e.jpeg

I don’t think I have any photos of me using the tape, but this is the first car I did using it, maybe 7 years ago, and it’s still sticking fine. For narrow areas, put the tape on the glass, letting it get over the edge, then trim off the excess. Peel the backing off the second side and press into place. The tape is clear so it pretty much disappears under glass.

I usually use it in a hybrid method, I’ll use the tape across the top and bottom of the glass and then use canopy cement on the edges all around. It’s good for holding the glass in place while the glue dries.

Edited by Tom Geiger

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I just used Elmer's clear glue on acetate windshield glass for a Hallock style windshield frame. Takes forever to dry, but can be wiped off if needed. i will let you know how it works out.

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So far, the Elmer's clear glue is holding well, including being transported on two car rides of 40 miles each way. I didn't keep track of the drying time- maybe the next project!

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