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AK Super chrome!


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So i purchased some AK super chrome which i guess is "new" in the states.  $30 for 60ml compared too $30 for 30ml of molotow.  I can see them having this to compete with molotow, because it's a ink as well, but doesn't settle and doesn't need a black base same as molotow.  Haven't tested it but from the video i watched it looks really good and can be airbrused or brused on. 

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Wow, this looks very similar, but MUCH less expensive, than the Mirror Chrome that I have heard so much about. Theirs is only 15ml (below) is $40. What I am mostly curious about, is how much handling a piece can take after having been painted with the AK, so hopefully you can keep us updated on your experience.

 

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18 minutes ago, Modelbuilder Mark said:

Wow, this looks very similar, but MUCH less expensive, than the Mirror Chrome that I have heard so much about. Theirs is only 15ml (below) is $40. What I am mostly curious about, is how much handling a piece can take after having been painted with the AK, so hopefully you can keep us updated on your experience.

 

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Yeah there's no way i would pay $40 for 15ml lol.  I still love my alclad and spaz stix and others, but i thought i would get the AK based on the video i seen on youtube.  No idea about dry time or anything though there's no directions anywhere lol.

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Interesting to see another chrome paint come to the market. To me this sounds like the Gundam Marker XGM 100 chrome where no black base or primer is needed.

Very interested in seeing your test results. Durability will determine how good it is, followed by the reflectivity. Test on some actual parts, anyone can paint a spoon and have it look good.

Thanks for sharing.

Edited by Cool Hand
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35 minutes ago, Modelbuilder Mark said:

Looks like this website is taking pre-order for $21.  https://fusionscalehobbies.com/ 

It looks great sprayed on from what I have seen, here is a short Youtube.. IF it is durable, I am in. 

 

 

Megahobby has it already in stock for $30 it's where i got it from. $21 can't beat that either.  Also that's the video I've been mentioning as well.

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20 hours ago, Cool Hand said:

...Very interested in seeing your test results. Durability will determine how good it is, followed by the reflectivity. Test on some actual parts, anyone can paint a spoon and have it look good.

Exactly.

36 minutes ago, Dpate said:

...Also that's the video I've been mentioning as well.

Real world results please.

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For any chrome-like coating to look like a shiny mirror-like surface the painted surface has to be smooth (glossy).  If the surface is not glossy, the chrome effect will be diminished.

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20 minutes ago, peteski said:

For any chrome-like coating to look like a shiny mirror-like surface the painted surface has to be smooth (glossy).  If the surface is not glossy, the chrome effect will be diminished.

I learned this way back when I sprayed my resin mags with primer first.

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2 hours ago, peteski said:

For any chrome-like coating to look like a shiny mirror-like surface the painted surface has to be smooth (glossy).  If the surface is not glossy, the chrome effect will be diminished.

Yes the smoother the surface the better the appearance.  No glossy black base for this stuff though.

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19 minutes ago, Dpate said:

Yes the smoother the surface the better the appearance.  No glossy black base for this stuff though.

Yeah, as long as it is glossy, base coat color is irrelevant.   But the color of a base coat is not critical even with Alclad II. Some modelers do not use black.

Edited by peteski
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2 hours ago, Mike C. said:

I learned this way back when I sprayed my resin mags with primer first.

Compare what we use to a glass mirror.  It is a smooth (glossy) pane of glass with thin layer of silver applied to it.  If you instead applied that same silver coating to a piece of textured glass, it would still be silver, but instead of mirror-like reactivity, the light would be scattered and reflected image would be jumbled.

Same happens with the "chrome" liquids we use.  Then require a smooth (which by definition means "glossy") surface to make the chrome paint  give that smooth surface reflectivity.  If applied over flat or satin primer, the rough surface will scatter light and chrome will look more like silver paint.

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Last time I checked this topic was about AK Super chrome, how it works and looks.

But as per usual it goes into semantics which are pretty much common knowledge.

And still waiting for the OP to show an example of his own experience with said product.

Edited by Cool Hand
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1 hour ago, Cool Hand said:

Last time I checked this topic was about AK Super chrome, how it works and looks.

But as per usual it goes into semantics which are pretty much common knowledge.

And still waiting for the OP to show an example of his own experience with said product.

Last time I checked you didn't start this topic, and the OP and others were enjoying a conversation. Thanks for telling them they aren't enjoying the forum properly though. 

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I can wait to see the results from the OP or someone who uses it before he gets to. Meanwhile there are folks who probably gain from the general conversation. Even myself, I just assumed Alclad produces a better chrome over gloss black, didn't know any gloss would do. Course personally I've kind of settled on molotow which from personal experience goes well over any smooth gloss finish. But if something better has come along I'll be following this. Molotow can be turned dull with handling so you have to be carful with things like side body chrome etc.

I hope no one is offended I shared that lol.😗

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2 hours ago, Cool Hand said:

Last time I checked this topic was about AK Super chrome, how it works and looks.

But as per usual it goes into semantics which are pretty much common knowledge.

And still waiting for the OP to show an example of his own experience with said product.

Well Luke, this is a discussion forum. Not sure why discussing things (still related to the topic) is so bad, semantics or not.  What might be common knowledge to you might not be for others. I'm sorry that you're sorry.  If you are still anxiously waiting for the OP to post examples, maybe PM him and ask him to hurry up.

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2 hours ago, Cool Hand said:

Oh my apologies for entering the discussion asking to hear and see how the product performs for the OP.

Some times actions showing results are better than words.

Your first post when you entered the discussion was fine, other than the bit about the spoon. It's your second post when you decided to be the thread police that was unnecessary. 

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4 hours ago, Tabbysdaddy said:

Last time I checked you didn't start this topic, and the OP and others were enjoying a conversation. Thanks for telling them they aren't enjoying the forum properly though. 

 

1 hour ago, Tabbysdaddy said:

Your first post when you entered the discussion was fine, other than the bit about the spoon. It's your second post when you decided to be the thread police that was unnecessary. 


Hmmm both of your posts don’t add much creative discussion about the subject only criticism or policing if I may say.

 

I was waiting silently for @Dpate to hopefully show a test, the results and conclusion/opinion of a product I will probably buy in the future. 

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3 hours ago, Sandboarder said:

 


Hmmm both of your posts don’t add much creative discussion about the subject only criticism or policing if I may say.

 

@Dpate 

My posts are to allow the posting of creative discussion, Luke's posts stifle the discussion. 

Edited by Tabbysdaddy
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Please don't make us lock another thread because you guys take things personal, assume comments are directed at you, cannot keep yourselves from commenting, chiming in to defend someone who can usually take care of their own affairs, or just trying to get the last word in.

Read it, disagree with it and move on. You will be amazed at how quickly things are forgotten and threads get back on track.

FYI - it usually isn't the OP that gets a thread locked or removed, it's the folks that continually make of topic comments and the multiple replies pointing out the absurdity of making off topic comments.

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Posted (edited)

Alright so i took parts from a random dump bin kit to test on and the results are great and not so great.  I don't show all the parts, but they were not cleaned just wiped, and where not buffed to a gloss, and no primer or anything was used.  Sprayed some at 15PSI and 20PSI really didn't make a difference.  Also only dried for about 3 hours in dehydrator for 3 hours @ 120F.  Some pics you will see just how good the chrome is and how good it works on flat surfaces with curves.  Other pics you'll see where i tried to buff it which it does not like or rubbing with your finger or finger prints.  This is only after 3 hours drying @120F not sure how long it's suppose to dry considering it's a ink. Even with the chrome gone it still leaves a rather nice gloss metallic finish lol. It did take a tiny bit of pressure to rub off, but it is delicate after 3 hours of drying so maybe after 8 it may do better? It doesn't dust up like alclad or spazstix which i love and I'm guessing because it's a ink?  

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Edited by Dpate
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Good info - thanks!

Are all part sprayed with AK?  I'm asking because some look chrome-like wile others look  like dull aluminum.  Are the dull ones the wones you rubbed out or polished?

I'm not surprised that polishing/rubbing any of the fragile "chrome" paints or inks dulls the look.  Just like with the factory (metalized) "chrome" parts, the "chromey" layer of the metallic particles on the surface is very thin.  If you started rubbing out factory chromed pieces those would aslo get dull (or even show the underlying plastic).

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Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, peteski said:

Good info - thanks!

Are all part sprayed with AK?  I'm asking because some look chrome-like wile others look  like dull aluminum.  Are the dull ones the wones you rubbed out or polished?

I'm not surprised that polishing/rubbing any of the fragile "chrome" paints or inks dulls the look.  Just like with the factory (metalized) "chrome" parts, the "chromey" layer of the metallic particles on the surface is very thin.  If you started rubbing out factory chromed pieces those would aslo get dull (or even show the underlying plastic).

Yes all are AK and the spoon and hood is the ones i rubbed out.  You can actually buff Alclad and spazstix pretty good without it coming off.  This stuff doesn't dust up like those and really doesn't need a buffing - i was just trying it out too see if it could be buffed.  I'm probably gonna do another test run and let it dry for least 8 hours or more and see if that helps it from rubbing off like it did.  Even using your finger can take it off pretty easy.  If i don't use this for actual parts i will def use it for emblems etc.  This product does have a place in the hobby though not cause it's another chrome, but for folks who don't wanna deal with 2 separate products and save money over using molotow.  I need little more practice with the AK stuff, because I'm so use to misting alclad or spaz over a black base and with this stuff you just airbrush it like regular paint.  Also it doesn't sag and it self levels itself, but i think if i let it dry for a lot longer it may not come off as easy when rubbed.  

Edited by Dpate
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Very useful info - thanks Dusty!

I did not know what you meant about Alclad "dusting up", but now I understand.  If misted almost dry, it will create a "dusty surface.  If you apply it too wet, it will dry looking dull. I guess I figured out the right technique to airbrush Alclad II chrome heavy enough not to "dust up", and still result in the "chrome like" shine.

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