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AMT '70s Short Body R.E. Dragster (05/22/2022)


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I removed the molded-on tabs for the rear axle, and made something a bit more realistic-looking. I will do a bit more shaping of them, but, they are ready to be cemented to the axle, while pinned in place. When building anything with a rigid drivetrain (dragster, FC, altered, etc.), this assembly is critical. A single shaft must mount everything, at its center, from the crank snout, into the differential. Once that's accomplished, you can slide everything along the length of the shaft, until the engine is in position, in the chassis--also known as how far "out" the engine sits. Everything looks good, in this regard.

Also visible are the new rear seat loop and upright. Both of these parts are molded to the outside of the seat, in the kit. I simply replaced them with .100" plastic rod. I will likely make the seat from aluminum flashing, so I will only use that for a form.

I ordered a length of 3/4" round brass bar, and some fine nichrome wire, in hopes of making front wheels. I also need to clean up and anneal another sheet of flashing, to make  a new body. All of that will be a story for another time. In the mean, questions, critiques and comments are always welcomed and appreciated. Thanks for looking!

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  • Straightliner59 changed the title to AMT '70s Short Body R.E. Dragster (05/22/2022)
8 hours ago, MADmodelDOCTOR said:

looking good!

Thanks, Ken. Appreciate it!

6 hours ago, BuilderX said:

Looking good I like how the valve covers turned out!

Thanks, Pete. Yeah! They worked out, pretty nicely!

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, David G. said:

The amount of detail you're adding to this still continues to amaze me.

David G.

Thanks, David! 

I got everything made to hang the front axle, once I've done a little tweaking of some parts--nothing major, just some clearance issues. I added some "detail" to the third-member brackets. I'll get the spindles figured out, next. Thanks for looking!DSC_0050cr.jpg.db13631bac74853c313da7ee943ddd10.jpg

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Edited by Straightliner59
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It's starting to look more like a dragster chassis! I added some more cross-braces between the bottom rails, along with some diagonals, around the "box" area. I also added a bottom seat support tube. There are still a few various pieces to add, and more cleanup, to do (I should have just scratchbuilt the dadgum thing!😄). Anyhoo...Thanks for looking! Comments, questions and critiques are always welcome.

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19 hours ago, David G. said:

I've always liked the look of those old dragster frames.

Great job on this one.

David G.

I'm a sucker for dragster chassis, too! I have four or five around here, that I've scratchbuilt, over the years. Three of them are brass. Anyway...dragster chassis look great, just on their own, for sure!

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The parts for the blower and injector are coming together. I'm going with the eight-hole Crower. The hat is from the Wynn's Charger kit. The injector is from a mid-'70s Revell fuel car, and was modified and cast by Don Fahrni, back in around '86. The blower case, and front and rear covers are from various iterations of the Wynn's Jammer kit. I used a set of round diamond files to "hog out" the hat. Then, I drilled out the throats. The bit of black, in the lower right corner, in one of the photos is where the drill ripped a hunk out of the hat. I replaced it with some Contrails plastic tubing.  I still have some work to do. The drive cog seen here is not the one I will use. Blower manifold is from Miss Deal. 

The brake calipers seen here are from the Prudhomme yellow dragster. Of course they're the same as those in the Garlits kit. I have passed them over, many times, because they didn't look very well engraved, detail-wise. A dip in the purple bath revealed a whole new world, beneath that coat of "blech"! I decided that I needed to make two of them into parts for a single unit (one for the outside of the rotor, as well). I made a mold of the pieces, but, am mostly unhappy with them, so I will try it over again! I intend to cast them with acrylic nail resin. Using nail resin allows the parts to be cemented with Weld-On 4.

That's a lot more words than progress...Thanks for looking!

 

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19 hours ago, James2 said:

Pieces/Parts looking good...

Thanks, Rooster.

19 hours ago, David G. said:

Taking the best of what each kit has to offer. That's a nice option to have.

It all looks good together.

David G.

That's why I keep casting stuff. That way, I can stop raiding my kit stash, for parts.😁 I wish I'd started casting parts more frequently, long ago!

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47 minutes ago, bobthehobbyguy said:

What casting material and mold making material do you use?

Hi, Bob. I use whatever I can find least expensively, but, in quantities that I can use, before they go bad. Most recently, I used something called Startso World rubber. It flows out, very nicely. Most typically, I end up with Alumilite. It generally performs well, and is readily available. Once it arrives, my next try will be with Smooth On Oomoo (I think). For casting, I use Alumilite white resin for larger castings, and acrylic nail resin for small ones. There are likely better performing products out there, but, since I am only casting parts for my own use, my molds don't need to be as durable as a professional caster. I also like  Amazing Mold Putty, for quickie stuff. Hope this answers your questions! Thanks for looking in! 

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Daniel, I just checked the pictures of your frame and it looks great.  Have you ever tried to build one in brass?  I know it's more difficult but with your talent I think you have what it takes.  Don't see any pressure there, I'm just curious. 😁

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9 hours ago, AmericanMuscleFan said:

Daniel, I just checked the pictures of your frame and it looks great.  Have you ever tried to build one in brass?  I know it's more difficult but with your talent I think you have what it takes.  Don't see any pressure there, I'm just curious. 😁

Oh, yeah! This nostalgia fueler has an all brass chassis. The body is made from tooling aluminum, and if I ever decide to finish this, it will be rebuilt with flashing--except the nse and tail sections. Those are hammered and soldered tin. This Surfers chassis is also brass. I have another brass dragster chassis I built in 1986, or so. It was my first brass chassis. I'm always afraid of finishing them, because "What if I leave off a tab?!"😃 Thanks for checking in, my friend. It's always nice to hear from you!

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6 minutes ago, David G. said:

I'm thinking that machining the discs will be easier than lacing the wire wheels.

It'll look great either way.

David G.

Mike Williams posted a method on here for lacing them, that simplifies the process. They look really nice! It just seems like a good time for me to turn a set! Thanks, David!

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15 hours ago, Straightliner59 said:

Mike Williams posted a method on here for lacing them, that simplifies the process. They look really nice! It just seems like a good time for me to turn a set! Thanks, David!

Can you share a link....there's been several tutorials posted. Since I respect your building greatly, I'd like to see what inspires you. 

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