How do I remove glue smudge from windshield?

[Mike C.]

I'm using that Testors glue that's supposed to be specifically for clear parts (i.e. windshields), and no matter how careful I think I'm being, I always manage to get an unsightly smudge or haze of some kind after its all over. What would be the best way to remove this smudge without harming the clear plastic?

[James2]

Get a new windshield!

[Fat Brian]

That glue is supposed to be water based so I would run it under warm water and used a toothpick or something equally soft to try to pick it off. For applying the glue in the future try a paint brush. I sit my glass in place and then dab glue around the edges with a paint brush.

[Mike C.]

1 hour ago, Fat Brian said:

That glue is supposed to be water based so I would run it under warm water and used a toothpick or something equally soft to try to pick it off. For applying the glue in the future try a paint brush. I sit my glass in place and then dab glue around the edges with a paint brush.

Thanks Brian. I'll try those tips.

[Mike C.]

1 hour ago, James2 said:

Get a new windshield!

I would but this kit is a 1/20 MPC Ford van kit and they are going for like $130 on Ebay. It's also already installed so I have to do all I can to save it.

 

[Old Nasty]

Toothpaste.

[Mike C.]

20 minutes ago, Old Nasty said:

Toothpaste.

As I understand that's for real glass windshields.

[Can-Con]

26 minutes ago, Mike C. said:

As I understand that's for real glass windshields.

No, it's just like using polishing compound. In fact, many people used it for polishing back before other polishing compounds were easily available. Use the actual paste though, not the jell.

But if the glue is actually water based try rubbing alcohol or glass cleaner with ammonia in it.

[Mike C.]

2 minutes ago, Can-Con said:

No, it's just like using polishing compound. In fact, many people used it for polishing back before other polishing compounds were easily available. Use the actual paste though, not the jell.

But if the glue is actually water based try rubbing alcohol or glass cleaner with ammonia in it.

Thanks Steve. I try the glass cleaner. If that won't work, I have some scratch remover polish for plastic I can try.

[thatz4u]

silver polish...Walmart

[Mike C.]

11 minutes ago, thatz4u said:

silver polish...Walmart

Is that liquid or polish form?

[DRIPTROIT 71]

I have had good success with a polishing kit which consists of different grades of sandpaper up to 12000 grit.

[Mike C.]

As you can see from the picture the windshield is already installed and there is very limited space. There is no way I'm getting any sand paper or polishing cloth in there. The glue is on the inside so I'm thinking I will need to go in with a q-tip with something on it.

[Chariots of Fire]

No easy fix there.  If warm water does not soften the glue so you can remove it, you might be stuck with what you have.

[Fat Brian]

3 hours ago, Mike C. said:

I would but this kit is a 1/20 MPC Ford van kit and they are going for like $130 on Ebay. It's also already installed so I have to do all I can to save it.

 

This is a kit I really wish I gotten when it was a out a few years ago. The glass doesn't look ruined like from regular red tube glue. 

[Mike C.]

43 minutes ago, Fat Brian said:

This is a kit I really wish I gotten when it was a out a few years ago. The glass doesn't look ruined like from regular red tube glue. 

This glue is the stuff Testors makes that is supposed to be specifically for clear plastic such as windshields. If you are still interested, I have a brand new sealed Highjacker van kit that they re-issued a few years back that I would trade for the right model.

 

[yh70]

next time you install a windshield or any clear part get you some Elmer's Glue all..(NEVER use that testots glue)  you get any on the clear parts before it dry's use a brush and warm water to remove it.. i dont think you will ever remove the testors glue on the windshield so get u some bare metal foil or some tamiya clear smoke and tint just that part..

[StevenGuthmiller]

If it’s just the Testors “Clear Parts Cement” it’s not much different than Elmer’s.

It just tacks up a little faster.

In any case, it’s a water based glue, so as others have said, get it wet with a Q-tip, let it soak for a few minutes, (maybe even let the wet Q-tip sit on the affected area for a while) and then try rubbing it off with a Q-tip before resorting to a tooth pick, or anything that could scratch the plastic.

 

In the future, try using a few thin strips of a fairly easily removed tape like Tamiya to tape the window into position in a few key areas.

Then, using a tooth pick, or other thin applicator, apply something like an epoxy glue around the perimeter in the areas that are absent of tape.

Once the epoxy is solidly set, remove the tape and fill the remainder of the perimeter with more epoxy.

Your glass will be permanently and very strongly fastened in place, with little possibility of smudges or finger prints.

 

 

 

Steve

Edited August 1, 2022 by StevenGuthmiller

[Mike C.]

13 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

If it’s just the Testors “Clear Parts Cement” it’s not much different than Elmer’s.

It just tacks up a little faster.

In any case, it’s a water based glue, so as others have said, get it wet with a Q-tip, let it soak for a few minutes, (maybe even let the wet Q-tip sit on the affected area for a while) and then try rubbing it off with a Q-tip before resorting to a tooth pick, or anything that could scratch the plastic.

 

In the future, try using a few thin strips of a fairly easily removed tape like Tamiya to tape the window into position in a few key areas.

Then, using a tooth pick, or other thin applicator, apply something like an epoxy glue around the perimeter in the areas that are absent of tape.

Once the epoxy is solidly set, remove the tape and fill the remainder of the perimeter with more epoxy.

Your glass will be permanently and very strongly fastened in place, with little possibility of smudges or finger prints.

 

 

 

Steve

Good tip. I think I'll try that next time.

Thanks Steve.

[James2]

9 hours ago, Mike C. said:

I would but this kit is a 1/20 MPC Ford van kit and they are going for like $130 on Ebay. It's also already installed so I have to do all I can to save it.

 

If you take the time and work slowly Novus polish does work pretty well. I have used it with success and have friends that have actually used very fine sandpaper then Novus and polished out some very bad scratches. If this doesn't work, can you tint it?

[Mike C.]

Like I say, no room for sandpaper. It's a really tiny space I have to work with. If I can get in there with a Q-tip, I'm lucky.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Try the Q-tip to soak the smudge, and then maybe try one of the small conical Tamiya type swabs to rub off the glue.

They’re smaller and harder than a regular Q-tip.

Might be just the ticket.

 

 

Steve

[Mike C.]

Whell, I used the Meguiars stuff on a Q-tip with minimal results. I guess I'll have to just live with it now. At least I learned a valuable lesson for next time ad that bottle of "clear parts specific " glue went straight into the trashcan.

 

[Raoul Ross]

Just a thought, what about a black strip across the top of the windshield and a Chevy banner?

Edited August 2, 2022 by Raoul Ross

[Mike C.]

Thats not a bad idea but this is a Ford van.