landman Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 I've been looking for a thread/tutorial/video on how to do this.I think I'll need to do some when restoring models with damages windows. I'm interested in the HOW but also the equipment, materials etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maltsr Posted September 21, 2014 Share Posted September 21, 2014 (edited) Hi Pat I have just done this on my latest project, an old Johan built up I purchased. I used .030' x .030' Evergreen square rod (P/N 131) to form the edges of the front windscreen. These were cut and glued with liquid cement, then trimmed to size. After allowing time to fully dry, the basic shape was drawn on masking tape held over the window frame. I then stuck the masking tape on a sheet of clear Evergreen Sheet (0.010") and cut out the desired shape, slightly larger than needed. With very careful testing, trimming, re-fitting and repeating the procedure, I managed to get a piece that fit, without the need for glue. Took me three pieces, but I got there . It even conforms to the curvature of the opening. Hope this helps. Edited September 21, 2014 by maltsr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landman Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 Thanks Paul. Much appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deuces wild Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Wow.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobthehobbyguy Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Do you glue the window in or did you create a channel to slip it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maltsr Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Hi Bob, I didn't need any glue this time, the curvature of the windscreen holds it in place by tension. The screen butts up against the square rod. It took three attempts to make one that fit like this, I'm fairly new to this technique. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrObsessive Posted September 24, 2014 Share Posted September 24, 2014 Pat I did something similar to what Paul did. If you want to click here, it'll take you to my '67 Mustang WIP thread. I like to use clear stencil sheet for windows however as to me they're optically clearer than styrene, and can take bends and such better without fogging. It does take some practice, but yeah------this is the way to go if you want to do a nice restoration job on an old builtup that needs replacement glass. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 Pat I did something similar to what Paul did. If you want to click here, it'll take you to my '67 Mustang WIP thread. I like to use clear stencil sheet for windows however as to me they're optically clearer than styrene, and can take bends and such better without fogging. It does take some practice, but yeah------this is the way to go if you want to do a nice restoration job on an old builtup that needs replacement glass. Hope this helps! Thank you for posting this, makes it so I don't have to re-invent the wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misterNNL Posted January 28, 2015 Share Posted January 28, 2015 I believe I would try making a template from paper or thin cardboard like the stuff reciepe cards are made from rather than waste the plastic(.Just a thought) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FASTBACK340 Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Pat & Bill, good tips guys! After receiving the price-quote for vacuum formed glass (yeah, it annoyed me….) looks like this is my route. I'll look into making the internal window channels, but I need to find stencil sheet. Always a treat seeing Bill glue together a model ….. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930fordpickup Posted February 21, 2015 Share Posted February 21, 2015 Pat & Bill, good tips guys! After receiving the price-quote for vacuum formed glass (yeah, it annoyed me….) looks like this is my route. I'll look into making the internal window channels, but I need to find stencil sheet. Always a treat seeing Bill glue together a model ….. What about the plastic used on the inside of the sandblasting glass at work John? The one we throw out after being used for awhile. Just get a new piece. We use them for stencils at work all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I've had good luck with the plastic liners from the collier of a new shirt. They are very bendable and can be cut very easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twokidsnosleep Posted February 24, 2015 Share Posted February 24, 2015 I've had good luck with the plastic liners from the collier of a new shirt. They are very bendable and can be cut very easily. ooo, good idea! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drake69 Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Another good source of clear plastic is from blister packs used to hold action figures and toy cars. The newer acetate bubbles don't yellow with age like the older cardbacks used to. I collect Hot Wheels and always open my card blisters to handle my cars, so I cut apart the flat sides of the bubbles for replacement clear windows. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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