blunc

Looks like something designed for the Cadillac line but got grabbed by Chevy so Vette sales wouldn't suffer.

if the question is in regard to the photo in the original post, the coil springs and shocks will have to be shortened or different mounting points found that will allow the car to sit in the stance desired. or you can do a google image search for "lowered suspension" and see what shows up.

stainless steel exhaust tip are usually good for another 5 or 10 MPH. nice work, the paint looks super.

I do NOT look down on any builder for how they build ( and I certainly hope no one else here does that ), there are times when I don't always find a model quite as exciting to me as others....when that happens I look to see how the basic build skills are exhibited...sometimes I say "nice work" (and I may think to myself..."not how I would have done that, but it's nice work.") and sometimes I may ask the builder for some clarification on what they built. and then there are some that want to be more competitive and see how their skills compare to other builders....the kind that say (mostly to themselves) "I can do that...maybe a little better." or maybe they think to themselves "I want to build things like that amazing thing I'm looking at." The purpose of the original post was a pointer for those that want to build more realistic "scale" models, not as a slam to anyone that doesn't. modeling "fun" for me is to build something that could work as a 1:1 thing, maybe one day a model I built will be in the "Real or Model" thread here in this forum...

if you're going for 1:1 appearance I think you can go either way, whichever suits you unless you're trying to replicate a real car. I'd say keep looking at the google images to see what fits your scenario then you have a reference to start from. if you're not trying to replicate something real, you could be real crazy and put a serpentine pulley system on it also.

flathead ignition wiring may actually be easier to do than a "normal" distributor. check this google image search for ideas: https://www.google.com/search?num=10&hl=en&safe=off&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1920&bih=960&q=ford+flathead+v8+engine&oq=ford+flathead&gs_l=img.1.3.0l5j0i5l2j0i24l3.4166.15091.0.19811.28.18.8.2.3.0.114.1758.13j5.18.0...0.0...1ac.FEOkwprYrHo

if you didn't build for yourself...you might be lazy. As I stated in the first post, level of detail is all the builders choice.

This may sound like a rant but maybe some builders have never thought of using the internet to see what car/truck assemblies should look like. I figure that if they can post on this forum that they have the capability to do a Google Image search for what carb linkage or fuel lines could/should look like and the proper place to connect these details. I'm not trying to pick on anyone that that attempts detailing...I'm trying to improve... A hypothetical situation would be if you have entered your latest masterpiece in a contest (if you do that kind of thing) and the judges had to make a decision for the grand prize between your model and someone else supposedly worthy masterpiece, most conscientious judges will give the award to the model that has been detailed to the possibility of being functional as a real car and not a fire hazard if the key was turned. A quick example (no photos on this, don't want hurt feelings), 4bbl carb fuel lines don't (in real life) get connected to the middle of the side of the carb, that is where the venturi (the big air holes) are, generally speaking... the fuel inlet on any carb is right at the main "bowl" ( the reservoir where the fuel stays till atomized in the venturi), this is the design rule followed by every single carb maker on this planet. If you have a 4bbl Rochester(a common stock carb on GM vehicles) the fuel line goes into the front face in the middle. Most Holley and other performance carbs have their fuel inlets on the side near the front (and rear) corners. Now even if you choose not to detail in a manner that may work in real life I will still applaud your modeling and detailing choices because there are many styles and choices out there and the next artistic masterpiece is always just around the corner.

that thing you are trying to identify is an electrolytic capacitor that has been cut in half.

I feel that anyone that can make the j-bend type hinge can make this style hinge and brass channel isn't very expensive. Now, making torsion sprung trunk hinges will be a bit more involved...

Since my current car is just a 1996 Buick SW ( a people-mover) and nothing special, I'm gonna post a couple cars that preceded it: '67 Pontiac Tempest, the last engine put in it was a Pontiac 455 with a 4bbl carb and GM HEI. Due to gas prices and losing my job, couldn't afford to keep it. and before that was a 1968 Firebird which I saved from a salvage yard, when I had it towed home it had no engine and the front bumper was in the back seat. and this pretty lady is what can be barely seen on the trunk lid of the photo above: Both cars were painted by my best friend Larry Vela.

And...the down side of this kit... The exterior engraved trim is very weak and may disappear if you look at it too hard, the good news is that there is a PE set for this kit.

They make it in tudor hardtop and convertible versions, these are very detailed kits with lots of delicate parts and working steering that includes functional steering wheel and photo-etched hood hinges that work when assembled correctly. I have a couple because I think one will make a great El Camino type sport truck.

Thanks for the info, I have in inquiry in at Chip's website also...which I will relay here if I get a response.

any or all of them.

Anyone know if Foose designed wheels in 1/24 or 1/25 scale are being made/sold to the public?

The firing order is:18436572, or 15486372... not that it will really matter since I'm guessing you forgot to gap the plugs

No curves on this one, I am positive I got it ...

I guess he didn't want to rename it "The Birdbeak-mobile"...

The hinges in the tutorial are friction fit till final assembly but may just stay that way in case I need to modify/repair interior elements.

Southpier< actually I do have some ideas for pre-war / exposed hinges but I haven't actually made any yet. I have a couple concepts in my brain that I can try to illustrate with photoshop or drawing&scanning but that will be a few days. MrObsessive< I totally agree about proper alignment/installation of any operating function on models, (for me) it needs to look like it could/would work on a 1:1 size vehicle. All< I had another suggestion/concept to put out there... how about building & attaching the hinges before the doors/trucks are totally separated from the bodies. I envision making the cut on the side of the door where the hinge will go (so you know the pivot point of your hinge) then "roughing in" the hinge before the car body has lost it's structural integrity due to the doors/trunk being removed... it's just a thought, I will be trying this on my next project...I've got a lot of doors and trunks to perfect this on.

A 1/24 scale K-type model was sold in the 80's, I don't remember who made it...maybe Ertl, I have one in my collection unbuilt.

if you build a hood hinge assembly that slides forward on rails then tilts like a reverse hinged hood you could put an over-the-top induction system on top of that motor.

The shiny grill...is that electric shaver screen?

After seeing the anticipation in another "door hinge" thread, I thought I'd offer up my design ideas for door hinges not made of wire stuck into a tube. This covers a more detailed description of the hinge design I have already posted in "1/32 scale workbench" but I feel will "scale up" well for 1/24 & 1/25 and possibly 1/12 & 1/16. This tutorial covers door hinges in which the front edge of the door swings inward when the door is opened, thus duplicating the action of the 1:1 car being depicted in 1/32 scale. There are other hinge designs which the entire door swings outward, that type requires the hinge point to be moved forward of the leading edge of the door (and a slightly different hinge design than shown here). I suggest if you want to replicate a real car, research or take photos to get the proper type of hinge to build but most will have same or similar elements just different mounting points and hinge arcs. Here are the basic supplies that I used for the hinges herein illustrated, I leave to you regarding your favorite cutting, drilling and shaping tools: note that the brass u-channels pictured are different size and one will fit into the other ( this is for those that wish to make all of their hinges totally out of brass rather than the method I chose for this project ) Evergreen has lots of great shapes and sizes and should be explored by any who need more than basic kit supplied parts. Here are the design elements; the mounting points (square plastic rod), brass u-channel (cut, shaped and drilled) and the hinge pin(I am using one long pin during the build to maintain hinge alignment, this will be shortened to one pin per hinge during final assembly). another shot of the hinges showing the orientation of the brass u-channel A close-up of one hinge piece sitting on top of a mostly finished door. This is a shot of the leading (forward) edge of a door, note the openings where the u-channel will slip into the door. An interior shot of the door showing where the u-channel will fit and calling out where the I-beam and square Evergreen shapes were used. Note that the trailing edge of the door skin has been thinned out to replicate actual dimensionality of 1:1 door. Here is a shot of the other side door showing how the brass u-channel slips into the I-beam and square Evergreen strips. A different view of the same door to get better perspective on the Evergreen parts. Thanks for looking, I will be happy to answer any questions. There are many ways this can be used, u-channel and brass tubes can be used for exposed hinges on vintage rods... I don't have my "modeling area" set up right now due to moving into a house that needed/needs much work (and building computers is my other hobby) but I am creeping up on getting some of my model projects off the back burner and "Under Glass"