935k3

Thanks, there is a resin kit of the 99 CLR(flipper)made by Black Box , I built he first one for the maker and made the instructions. Pics are used in this ad for Isalnd Collectables. 99 CLR by Black Box

Both are Alfa Romeo 155 Touring cars.

It does not make allot of sense using naked people to sell sportswear does it? But it looks cool.

Decals that is. Of course the woman was the toughest to deal with.

For clear fuel lines use Fishing line. Craft stores sell chord for beading that loks like braided line. For spark plug wires get Radio Shack 30ga wire wrap wire.

An airbrush is the best way to do this. Do not sand off the paint, Tamiya's Acrylics come off with Ammonia which won't touch any other types of paints.

I noticed new cans for the regular Indoor/Outdoor(Not Fusion), I carefully read the label and found something new, it now says to recoat within 1 hour or wait 24hrs. I got suspicious and called Krylon and they confirmed they changed their formula. They also now have a Fan Spray head. I am going to round up a bunch of the old White while I can. If anybody has tried the new stuff(cone/dome shaped lid)please ley us know how it is. Why do they chnge stuff that's worked great for all these years?

I have been working on the CLK Sportswear CLK GTR. The chassis is done and the body is almost ready for decals. I hate silver paint had to repaint the rear deck a few(allot) of times. Body is painted TS-17 Gloss Aluminum with TS-13 Clear.

Rest assured people CAL is absolutely right The new stuff smells exactly the same and has the same directions for use, it's made by the same company it is called Pledge with Future Shine (not Power). I found both on the shelf together and the newer stuff looked even clearer, probably because the Future was older.

I like them to rotate but only very tightly so I can pose the tire lettering(race cars) for pictures. I like Tamiya's system because they don't relly roll but they can be turned.

I have never seen a contest winning model that was not painted. The tranlucent qualities really show up when near a bright light. Plastic looks like plastic . Most car bodies are painted metal,fiberglass or carbon fiber none of which are translucent. I think some people will not paint because they are afraid to learn how to do it right. It is more work but the results are worth it.

If you do not paint the body it will always look like a plastic model and not a real car. I like to prime and paint all cars so they look solid and realistic. Also decals do not stick well to bare plastic and can peel and fall of later.

Very nice builds, my only complaint would be I wish the pictures were bigger.

If you have to strip Future use straight Ammonia and it comes of instantly and will not hurt underlying paints except Tamiya Acrylics which also dissolve with Ammonia. Also I tried many waxes over Future and found only one that did not remove the Future, Zymol brand really protects and enhances the gloss of Future and it smells good because it has Coconut oil in it. I apply Future by wiping it on with a disposable cosmetic cleaning pad(sold in 100 packs at Dollar stores). I use a Q-Tip for small and hard to get into areas like NACA ducts on racecars. Because of the reworkability and absolutely safe over anything qualities of Future I would never use anything else.

Glad to see this thread. This was one of the prettiest cars from that era. I was lucky enough to see it race at Watkins Glen a few times. Can't wait to see your progress on this one.

I picked up both of these this weekend. Do not hesitate to buy either. The Audi was the first car I ever bought that needed no magnet tweaking at all, just trued the tires and handling is great. My only complaint about the Porsche was the Yellow painted body leeked light around the head and tailight area when running. I fixed that by painting black paint inside of the body in those areas. The Audi looks better in person than the pics on the net.

Everything you need to know about Future is at this link. The Complete Future

They are close to but not entirely flat. Tamiya does now make a semi-gloss(TS-79) and flat clear(TS-80) so you can just about whatever sheen you need.

I use Freezer Paper from the Grocery Store intended for wrapping meaats and stuff. One side is slick like wax paper.

Solvaset is one of the strongest solvents made. I avoid using solvents as they will destroy Tamiya's newer decals. I use a hot damp cloth pressed over the decal, it makes the decal conform and lay down immediatel with no wrinkles. Smaller areas can be worked with a hot damp Q-Tip. A hair dryer on the lowest setting possible work also. I only use solvents when a decalcrosses a panel line(like a door) and has to go down in line. I do nothing but racecars with allot of decals and this method works better than anything I have ever tried.

Crispy you stole my Spray Booth and Dehydrator(LOL) By the way for the Paasche Spray Booth get rid of the filter it comes with and tape the cheap 20" by 20" Furnace Filters over the vent. You will get better airflow. I buy them at Wal-Mart for less than 3 bucks for 4. Both the booth and the dehydrator are the best investments I ever made for building models.

The Goodyear thing has even affected Tamiya also, all of their re-released F1 kits have no tire decals like they used to. Luckily I have Stencils and bunch of 1/24 decals I have collected over the years including Fred Cady's.

The bracket is a photo etched part that had texture etched on the surface and smoother around the edges. I just gave it a black wash. The exhaust was painted flat white then dirtied up with the black(oil stain) from Tamiya's Master Weathering set 'D'. Thanks to all for the compliments.

Finished! Fujimi Porsche 917

I hate to ruin the parade but your chassis is so beautiful it's a shame to not put the real paint and decals on the body. Nice work though.