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I know Harold Bradford(through MAMA)of Historic Racing Miniatures. His stuff has zero pinholes and is some of the best in the business. He puts the mold in a pressure pot used in spray painting after pouring the resin. He also has figured out the best place to put the resin in and the point where it exits which produces the least molding problems.

It's this one from Fujimi.

Something I have been working on. I am doing the decals now.

BIN is available in a spray can. It comes out pretty sloppy and heavy but it sands well.

The white will have a slight tint but because you are painting yellow over it I do not think you need to seal it. Bin is available at Home Depot stores. It seams OK with any type of paint and it sands really well. It probably is better to airbrush it. Future acrylic can also be airbrushed to seal plastic. Read about here. Future

DO NOT use solvents on Tamiya Decals, on any of their modern kits. Try pressing down the decal with a hot damp clotrh(Q-tip for small areas). It sets instantly and conforms without any wrinkles. If you have any trouble getting decals to stick apply a white clear-drying glue such as Microscale Krystal Klear under them. I keep a small pot of hot(not boiling)water nearby and dip a clothor tissue in it then damp out the excess water on a paper towel.

I've been using it for years because it safe over any decals. The only thing I had truble with was finding a Wax to go over it that did not rubbing it off when applied. I discovered ZYMOL brand(availble at Wal-Mart)works great, it deepens and enhances the gloss. Zymol smells good too because it has coconut oil in it. I apply by carefully wiping it on with a clean tissue with excess drained off by pressing it on a paper towel. I use a Q-tip to apply in small areas. Holding it under a warm lamp helps it too level better. It can be used to seal models molded in yellow and red that usually bleed the color through successive coats of paint. Just about any paint can go over it safely. Here is an Opel DTM I used it on.

First you may have to use regular wet/dry 400 grit to get the mark out then 600 grit then start using the 1800 grit in the polishing kit next 2400,3200,4000,6000,8000,12000. If you can get to a Motorcycle Shop get some Simichrome Polish and use that next then use the Novus #2 then finish with Novus #1. If it still is slightly cloudy try wiping a coat of Future on with a clean lint-free cloth. Dipping makes it a little to thick and unnatural looking. If you mess up the Future remove it with Windex or ammonia and re-apply. Also holding under a hot lamp helps it level out a little better.

Nice job so far. Two tips that really work for decals are when having problems with decals sticking apply some White(dries clear) PVA glue like Formula 560 or Microscale Krystal Klear under the decal. To get decals to conform and bend try a hot damp cloth(Q-tip on smaller areas) pressed over it, it will set instantly without any of the wrinkles you get with solvents.

You could try polishing the overspray off. A good plastic polish like Novus #2 should do it. If it's Testor's Dullcote Alcohol will remove but keep it away from your body paint.

Before you use any putty try filling the area as much as you caan with strip plastic(Evergreen has a triangular cross section strip) glued in with a good liquid model glue. If filled properly with plastic you can use a 1 part putty like Tamiya's(highly recomended). Plastic is always better than putty.Super Glue can work but allot of paints will allow it to show through on even the final color coats.

Randy Derr's Penske Camaro and Jim Drew's Grandsport are awsome and don't forget one of the best but may not be known because he builds for customers around the world. Andy Mathews build the best Grand Prix and F1 cars in the world. He is currently building Mclaren F1 cars for Mclaren. Here is a link to his art. ClearviewF1

If you want to clean fingerprints and smudges go to your nearest PepBoys or any place that sells Meguiar's Clear Plastic Detailer and apply it and polish with a soft cloth. Also Novus #1 available at hobby shops. For minor scratches use Novus #2. Make sure you use a white glue to glue windows in place because it's safer on plastic than any other type.

A cure for the ill fitting rear deck is to remove the pins under the body that fit into the sockets on top of the rear inner fenders, this lets the parts relax and sit better. This causes a misalignment of the air ducts near the rear window in the firewall and they will require some rework. I found this tip on another forum along time ago, I wish I could credit the builder but I cannot find it or remember who it was.

The magnets used for Slotcars would probably work well they are very poweful Neodymium. Here is link for some that are available. Scroll down the page a little way to start seeing them. Magnets

Great job on a cool car. Make sure to bring that to the next CPMCC club meet.

My latest one.

I have had this problem with the Tesor's decals using Tamiya TS-13 Clear airbrushed. Try pressing a hot damp tissue or cloth over the decal and it will lay down perfectly. You can also use a little white glue underneath. This technique works much better than solvents and you do not get any wrinkles.

The kit is very nicely molded but if you can try to find the earlier re-issue from a few years(3-5)ago because it comes in this box with an absolutely beautiful artist rendering.

It will be this version minus the Night Stage lights. It looks allot cleaner without the extra lights.

Cosworth WRC.Just finished the chassis and the body is ready for decals. I used Tamiya's weathering set(D) for the exhaust staining and Alclad Stainless Steel for the gas tank, Krylon White for body and chassis.

All good ideas. I would like to a method I started using the last year or so. I used to flow india ink in the lines but they did look heavy sometimes. I started using a black wash of Tamiya acrylics applied with a 10/0 brush, it looks better and not so heavy as a solid black. I also deepen all panel lines usually with the backside of the Exacto blade before painting. The deepness of th line with wash looks just right. This Vette was done this way.

I have used about every brand of paint over Krylon primers without any problems, it should be OK over the Duplicolor Primer.

Apply a white glue like Micro Krystal Clear or Formula 360 Canopy Glue(My favorite) under the decal and press out excess glue and wipe it away before it drys. Pressing the decal with a hot damp cloth will get the decal to lay down on any surface no matter what the shape.

Thanks for clearing that up, I did the number 3 car(whew!). I wonder why it was backwards anyway.