935k3

Just a tip, if you have to strip Duplicolor paints try 91% Alcohol.

I have been using Future for years, It is the safest of all clearcoats and it will protect ALclad with the least change in shine of any clear coat. The link below will tell you everything you need to know about using Future. I have learned to apply it by wiping it on with disposable makeup pads, I use a Q-Tip to get in small and hard to reach places. Regular Ammonia strips it and will not touch any paint except Tamiya's Acrylics in the jar. Future

A pair of these beauties will be at this year's Sebring 12 hrs. A daytona "prototype" looks like a turd compared to these cars. Notice the chrome roof. I imagine it is an effort to keep heat out of the cockpit.

Thanks, but I think I will be OK, I have 2 sheets of the main decals and I found some paint at the craft store for small touchups.

Got all the main color decals done. Touchup will come next.

Somebody sent it to me via e-mail.

Watch this interesting video for yourself.Strange but interesting.... This is a car advertisement from Great Britain. When they finished filming the ad, the film editor noticed something moving along the side of the car, like a ghostly white mist. The ad was never put on TV because of the unexplained ghostly phenomenon. Watch the front end of the car as it clears the trees in the middle of the screen and you'll see the white mist crossing in front of the car then following it along the road. Strange noises can also be heard. Is it a ghost, or is it simply mist? You decide when you click to open it below. Is it a ghost?

Has anyone else built this car? If so, what brand and color of paint can be used to to touchup the green and orange areas? Any suggestions appreciated.

Started doing the decals. These colors will never look right by camera. They look much better in person. Tamiya's Flourescent decals are slightly brittle. Luckily I have 2 sheets. A hot damp cloth helps them conform nicely. Solvent are too strong for Tamiya's decals. I only use solvents down in panel lines and where they wrap under fenders. Tamiya was good to put the colors over a white base, because they overlap with out making darker lines. Tamiya constantly shows that they want to help you make a nice model.

I cannot get enough of this one. I love the car. the song and the track is my favorite.

This one is ready for decalling.Body is Krylon White, interior is Metallizer Gunmetal sealed in semi-gloss clear(TS-79)decanted and airbrushed.

New Aston Martin will challenge the Diesels, the story is at this link Aston Martin at Lemans

Another thing that makes double action airbrushes better is they mix the paint with air internally and make the paint in a smaller better atomized pattern which produces better color concentration. Also they use less paint, sort of like a 4 barrel carb versus a 2 barrel carb. A dual action also gives you control over the wetter or dryer a paint job is which allows you vary the sheen of the paint. An internal mix is far better for clear tinted colors and Alclad paints. A single action is good for a single color body but I like a dual action for everything else.

The racing is very good in this series which why I do watch, but I still think these cars are UGLY. The bulbous roofs just ruin the overall look of the cars. I just wish the rules makers would adjust the rules to allow better looking cars.

Thanks all. Chris you are right but this car especially looks naked without them. Randy, I tried every setting on the camera and adjustments with PaintShop Pro and I just cannot get the reds to come out right. Brendan, Tamiya actually provides the peaks as seperate masking pieces and includes the red triangles on the decal sheet but does not mention them at all in the instructions. My next project will be this decal nightmare(the $3.99 special);

And some more.

Paint is Tamiya TS-49, the "evil" white peaks are Krylon White airbrushed over the red. I used about 6 different type of composite decals on this one.

Always have been and alwys will be a Pittsburgh Steelers fan. I got to see them in a pre-season game. Ben is the biggest guy on the field. Go Black and Gold!

Simon, did you know Johnson's Klear is just Future by another name and can be easily stripped with ammonia, which will not harm the plastic at all? I f you have an airbrush, decanting Tamiya's laquer clear red,orange,yellow,blue and smoke work very nice for tinting windows and can be stripped with 91% or higher alcohol which also does not hurt plastic.

I knew that about the Shell car and the Blaupunkt version, which is why I never bought them. They were made from the molds for their Tamtech RC cars. Also the radiotor depth is way to shallow. They do have some nice interior and front chassis structure detail. Unfortunately I bought Speedline's beautiful Tic Tac sheet which I found only fits that kit, it is not wide enough for Hasegawa's 962.

Spaking of decals that don't stick. I dipped a Q-Tip in Future and wet the back of the decal it set much faster.

No but I really like this car allot and I had some money from christmas. Tamiya also has some new paint like Alclad they want $17 a can for. They will soon price themselves out of the US market. I notice the description of the car that it has 18' front wheels asnd 17" rears. All louvers on the hood molded open, the body is awsome. The antenna and mirrors are molded in a flexible material. Mine was $66 w/ tax.

I just bought this kit, I was dissapointed with the chrome roof section because it had some junk in the finish. That's Ok because I know kit chrome is very fragile and would not hold up to handling and decalling. It scratches to easily and can be rubbed off with just your finger. So what to do? I tried different foils like bare metal but it just doesn't work on a large area. I did this on an old junk body. So I tried regular aluminum foil used in the kitchen. I sprayed the back with adhesive and layed it down, it polished beautifully and will hold up better than any chrome or paint. The real car has foil on the roof to keep heat out of the cockpit Here is some pics. Look at the left side of the hood as it was the clean area on the body.

Scale Motorsports patterns are very nice but I think the decal film itself is some of the worst stuff I have ever used. The glue sucks and they can be very brittle at times. Tamiya's are very nice and be bought through Tamiya America by asking for the ones sold with various kits. I wish somebody else in th US would make some better quality ones and give Mr. wells spme some competition. I am sure Studio 27's are good like all of their other decals. Don't even try the Detail Master stuff it is absolutely the worst and is transparent over any darker colors. I have some old Modeller's sheets that were very nice and used them on my Toyota GT1, they are out of business but you might find some on E-Bay. Crazy Modeller also makes a bunch of different styles.

Nice build so far. The Judd V10 is pure music to the ears in person, I got hear it at the 2001 6hrs at the Glen. It powered the winning Ferrari 333(Dallara)chassis. I also remember how rough the 427 Ford in the Saleen S7 sounded in comparison. Mazda rotaries are also very interesting in person. Hey Nick did you look at the progress on my Toy yet. I am sick of doing Carbon Fibre decals. I used about 5 different types on it. I have some great reference shots of that car.