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ModelcarJR

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Everything posted by ModelcarJR

  1. Thanks, Jim! I appreciate your comment! This one is done! More photos in the "Under Glass" section.
  2. Thanks, Jeff! I appreciate your comment! This one is almost done. The chassis is not exactly square in the fender unit which caused some issues with the wheels in the fender openings. So I scraped some plastic from the rear wheel openings and the left front fender with my X-Acto knife so the wheels and tires would fit. I did use the Aoshima big and little 15" American Mags but the tires were too wide. I cut down the rear wheels about 1/8" from the width and then just used some Goodyear L60 - 15s all the way around. They probably would rub on a 1/:1, but I think they look OK in scale. But I won't show the mess underneath as it is not pretty. The hood doesn't fit well either but a little Handi-Tak under the hood fixes that. The interior is not much to see. I painted it primer gray with some clear coat on the dash, steering wheel and column and called it good. I took the steering wheel and column from the Revell 32 five window coupe that I have been using for extra parts. I've used quite a few parts from that kit on other builds. The windshield glass are two pieces of clear acetate as the kit windshield was just too thick and left gaps. Although the exterior paint looks good, it's really not contest ready so it will probably be a shelf sitter. So I'll be back with final photos after bumpers, taillights, gas filler cap, headlights and maybe a mirror on the door, if I can find or make one. Thanks for looking! ?
  3. Thanks, All! I appreciate your comments! ?
  4. This is a Moebius kit that would have been a good kit except for the windshield and rear window mounting. I failed to read every step of the instructions before starting. I painted, rubbed out the body and foiled it as I always do first. When I got the next to last step in the instructions I found out that the front and rear windows mounted from the outside. So since. glue and foil don't mix, I removed the foil on the windshield and rear window trim. In so doing, I chipped some paint on the trim on the both windows. Therefore, the trim in these areas are not smooth is some areas and look pretty nasty. So this one will remain a shelf sitter. The exterior paint is Dupli-Color Bright Red with a Krylon Satin Black interior. Engine has plug wires and heater hoses which run over the intake manifold on the left side. The rest is box stock and pretty much fell into place. The decals registered well. It could have been a nice build. Maybe the next one will be. Thanks for looking! ?
  5. This one is done! No photos of interior as there was nothing to see in the "monochrome" interior. The decals were good. The front and rear windows mounting on the outside ruined this build! More photos in the "Under Glass" section. Thanks for looking!
  6. I knew I could do better on the windshield and not leave a gap on that right side, so I stripped off the foil and started again. I think it turned out much better. Third time's a charm! Thanks for looking! ?
  7. Thanks, Len! I appreciate your comment! Well, I thought I would be finishing this one up today but the modeling gods and the instructions got me again. In this step, the windshield and back glass go in from the outside, Well, I already have the trim foiled and as many of you already know, glue on foil does not work. so I had to remove the foil from the front and back and while I was at it I removed the foil on the wing windows, The only original foil left is the piece on the roof and not all of it survived either. So while I was at it, I scraped off the paint from the "A" pillar so that I could address the mold indent or cut into the plastic on both pillars, I sanded them down with some sandpaper and a file to remove the ugly cut since the paint isn't really necessary as both are completely covered with foil. Once all that prep work was done, I glued the windows in as best I could. Neither fit well. Normally, when kit makers have windows that mount from the outside there is a groove inside the window that the window actually just fits in. But not on this one. So once the glue had dried I re-foiled the front and back windows. The windshield came out OK and the mold indents in the A pillars are gone and the foil went on OK. The back window on the left side looks a little ragged because some of the paint on the trim chipped off in the process and I wasn't going to remove the paint from all the trim on the back window. So I'll just have to live with some chips in the rear trim under the foil. I've been working on this a good part of the day and still have the wing windows and rear side windows to install. Makes me wonder if anyone at Moebius has ever built a model. I would call this kit a Moebius Manufacturing Fail! Thanks for looking! ?
  8. A quick mock-up update: Read the instructions when putting the body on the frame. Put the rear in first and work to the front. It doesn't work the other way.
  9. I like the changes you've made to the Demon. The "Model Car Magazine" issue 224 also indicates that the engine block and front seats are bit undersized and suggests that they could be substituted from the AMT 340 Duster. I have built this Demon with none of those changes but I did Dullcote the decals on the decal sheet before application and they look nice along with the flat black painted scoops and rear spoiler. Still managed to finish 2nd in a large model car contest. I plan on building it again and will incorporate your changes and the engine and front seat changes and see what happens. I hope you don't mind a couple of photos.
  10. Thanks, Carl! I appreciate your comment! I forgot that this one was one of those kits that build the interior on the chassis so I had to complete the chassis first. I think I have the doghouse square, at least as square as i can get it. As usual, its not an easy assembly. A couple of issues with this Moebius kit; the steering box doesn't really fit. Its suppose to attach to the firewall and dangle while you put the engine in. It doesn't really connect to the tie rod so I just left it out. The other issue was that the main chassis platform is missing a drilled hole on the right side to attach the subframe. So that was easy to fix by drilling a hole for the mounting. Other than those two items it went together pretty well. I used the bigger wheels and tires (which are treaded) on the back. Tomorrow the interior! Thanks for looking! ?
  11. So I am back on this one and will stay with it until completion, Today, I finished the engine. I can't believe I spent most of the day on it but I added plug wires and heater hoses and detailed some of the parts. This is the Commando 426 engine that I mixed up some paint for and painted turquoise. There are actually two engines in this kit with the Max Wedge being the other one. I'll save it for something else, I noticed by looking at photos on the internet that the heater hoses route over the intake on the left side of the engine on this one. So the left side is busy and its hard to see the plug wires but they are there. Interior is next. Thanks for looking! ?
  12. Painted the cowl and radiator support under the hood and foiled the exterior. Not too much foil on this one. Everything is painted now and it is in the cue for assembly. Thanks for looking! ?
  13. Thanks, Guido and Todd! I appreciate your comments! Yes, this is a very nicely manufactured kit. Everything fits well, no chrome to remove from parts that shouldn't be chrome, and no significant mold lines or flash. This one and the 68 Chevelle are nice kits. I still have one more of these in the closet. I am going to add plug wires and heater hoses and maybe a fuel line but other than that it will be box stock. Since I already have gone with a non-factory color for the exterior, I thought I would do the same for the interior and also made it a two-tone interior. Dupli-Color Pure White and Krylon Satin Leather Brown. I painted the dash, steering wheel and column the exterior color, Dark Toreador Metallic. I've also BMF'D the exterior of the body. Now all the painting are done so I can put it in the assembly line. Thanks for looking! ?
  14. Thanks, Bob, Greg, and David! I appreciate your comments! ?
  15. Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your comments! Stu, I couldn't resist posting a photo of my 71 Olds 442! Good luck with yours! ?
  16. Thanks, everyone! I appreciate your comments! ?
  17. I finally received my decals from Keith Marks so I could complete this one today. Its painted with Dupli-Color Universal Black on the outside and I used an old can of WalMart Fire Red on the interior. It was a W-30 kit but I deleted the W-30 option. Added plug wires and heater hoses to the engine. The air cleaner is the combination of two different air cleaners from the parts box, The red decals on black were not a kit option so it was nice to get the Keith Marks decals. Thanks for looking! ?
  18. Thanks, Bob, Rex, and Carl! I appreciate your comments!
  19. Thanks, DJ and Greg! I appreciate your comments! I wanted to do something with black and blue in the interior but there is really no way to do it without being too much blue, inside and out. So I thought about it and why not go with a tried and true formula that worked well with the 71 Mustang Boss that I built. So I used Gunmetal flatted out with Dullcote and a black carpet. Its almost black and resembles the interior of a modern day car. So once that was done, I finished rubbing out the body. Now all 5 bodies are rubbed out and now I just have the 69 Chevelle to paint the additional parts and I will have 5 kits ready to assemble and finish. I don't know if I will start on them or keep painting while the weather is good. Thanks for looking! ?
  20. Thanks, David! I appreciate your comment! Rubbed out the body today. Still need to do the hood. I've been working on other projects and about 4 hours on this one. Thanks for looking! ?
  21. I worked on rubbing out the 69 Chevelle this morning and then when the humidity came down turned my attention to all the other parts for this build. Of particular attention was the interior which has 6 circle thingys (pin injector marks) in the interior floor. One in each footboard area of the interior and two in the rear package area. So I dutifully filled the six deep circles with punched plastic and some putty. I sanded them out but its difficult to get level with my oscillating sander and even with sanding sticks because of the corners. So I did as much as I cared to and then I decided to use some glue and embossing powder to simulate carpet. Before I did that I taped off the doors, back seat and console, After the embossing powder was dry I painted it with some flat black spray as the powder was a brownish color. So after all that, it looks pretty good. At least you can't see the circles, although it might be hard to see with everything black. I also painted all the other parts and now I can move on to the parts for the blue and silver Revell 71 Mach 1. I'm thinking about either all black or blue and black for the interior in that one, with silver seat inserts, of coarse. If anyone has a thought about that let me know. What would you do? Thanks for looking! ?
  22. Thanks, Jim, Bob, and Bob! I appreciate your comments! Jim, I agree with you and I don't know how car companies come up with the names of colors sometimes. I originally bought it because the cap color looked close to Guardsman Blue that I needed for the Shelby Cobra that I built. The can does say that its an original Ford color. But its a nice dark blue without looking like its black. Bob A., I am anxious to see how the wheels and tires look and may buy some more. Bob S., Yes, I will probably do the same as I doubt I have any extra steering columns. Looks like there is a piece on the parts tree that might serve as a column shifter or alternatively as a turn signal indicator lever.
  23. Thanks, Topher! I appreciate your comment! The last six bodies I have painted have been with Dupli-Color lacquer right out of the rattle can. Usually, I paint two coats about 10 minutes apart followed by two coats of Krylon Clear Lacquer out of the rattle can about 1/2 hour later, as instructed on the side of the Dupli-Color can. I normally use either Dupli-Color or Tamiya for bodies unless unless I use a paint that can only be airbrushed. I try to avoid that as it is time-consuming and usually more expensive paint. Thanks for the question!
  24. I have built this Revell kit a coupe of times. The last two were Daytona Yellow and a Light Blue Metallic. So since the weather is nice I thought I would get another body painted and chose to go COPO with a Dark Toreador Metallic. Nothing close in the 1969 Chevy color chart but I did see a COPO painted Burnished Brown which looks similar to this color. Two coats of paint and two coats of clear, I'll rub it out tomorrow but it won't need much work as it looks pretty good. Thanks for looking! ?
  25. I painted all the other parts for this kit and then turned my attention to the engine and what I am going to do for a power plant. I found an engine in a bag that I had bought several years ago at a contest for $1.00. Looks like a Mopar of some sort but it had a number of parts that looked interesting. So I removed the distributor or magneto on the front of the Ford engine and drilled a couple of holes for a regular fan belt, alternator and fan. I also use the heads, valve covers, intake manifold, carb, exhaust manifolds, and oil filler tube. Then I found an air cleaner and distributor in the parts box. Everything fit well so I assembled it using the block from this Ford. I test-fitted the engine in the chassis and then mounted the fender unit, body and hood. Everything fit! So that problem is solved and I ordered some Aoshima 15' American Mags and Firestone tires from Model Round-up to see how they will look on this build. So I could probably wrap this one up in a couple of hours but I'll put it aside until I get the wheels. Thanks for looking! ?
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