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ModelcarJR

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Everything posted by ModelcarJR

  1. Thanks, All! I appreciate your comments! I made a little progress in that I have everything in primer before it started raining today. before that, I had sanded off the partial trim piece on the hood/fender top that glues onto the body sides. I didn't want a bad glue joint with a slit down the side where chrome trim should be. So a sanded everything down after I glued the sides on and then added 0.020" rod on both sides. I think it will work well and be easy to apply the foil to. I also removed the distributor from the engine and drilled holes for the spark plug wires before I painted the engine block and heads and intake piece. I'll add a pre-wired distributor. I painted it gunmetal so I can do some detailing with silver and black with a brush. Finally, I Painted the seats white so I can tape off the white square for the tri-colored seat pattern. I think I'll going with Coral Blue as a substitute for Indian Turquoise and white both inside and out with a third color true blue for the interior. Thanks for looking! ?
  2. I've had this kit for about 30 years. I've already been reticent to start it since the body has to be assembled. A few years ago, I saw a WIP where the modeler decided to tape down the side to a mirror in order to keep everything level and square. So I have taken that Idea and instead of a mirror I am using a piece of board that I think once was a drawer bottom in an old desk. I drew a rectangle on it that is the size of the model about 7 3/4" long and 2 7/8" wide. Then I taped each side down on its line and then cemented the front section with hood and the rear taillight section in place. Everything lined up well and I held the each section in place until the super glue held. Not sure I'm going to use all the moving parts yet. I rather have a nice model then a Transformer that doesn't work. But first I have to get everything painted and that will be a few days as it is raining now and is suppose to rain a few more days. Here are a few pics:
  3. Thanks, Gerald, Carl and Josh! I appreciate your comments! ?
  4. Thanks, All! I appreciate your comments! ?
  5. Its done! See WIP for more detail. Thanks for looking!
  6. Thanks, Dave and David! I appreciate your comments! Its done! Forgot the decal on the radiator but its on now. Here are the pics:
  7. Thanks, Josh and Carl. I appreciate your comments! Carl, I generally primer all parts as I did with this one. Of course, the interior pieces were painted flat white after primer and then taped off and painted Grabber Green. Thanks for looking! ?
  8. Thanks, Lee! I appreciate your comment! Its on wheels! Only a few more parts to go. I understand why this is rated a "5" degree of difficulty. There are bent, broken and incomplete parts in the kit, plus parts that are better to do without. Fore example, in addition to the bent windshield, the tie rod was broken in the kit and one of the pins on the axle to attach the tie rod was missing. Furthermore, the metal pins for the axle are too long for the front and cutting them will only make them "out of round" and unusable. They are not really necessary anyway as you can just glue the brake drum to the backing plate and it will be just fine! The headers were also a PITA. Its important to leave the front tailpipes loose so that they can be adjusted to fit into the end of the header and then glued in place in the muffler. In addition, the bracket on the header doesn't have any pins (I never understand why headers of exhaust manifolds are not make with pins for the side of the head) so exact placement is crucial. It is very important that if plug wires are added that they are place as low as possible so the plug boots are not in the way. I had a little trouble with one on the right side and the header bracket is a little slanted toward the front but its not very noticeable. I have to paint the radiator and attach a few more parts and this one will be done! I will have one Highboy and one Lowboy when finished! ? Thanks for looking! ?
  9. Thanks, Bob! I appreciate your comment! Well, when they re-crafted this kit (re-engineered would be too strong a word), they missed the boat! Here are some issues: 1. The drive shaft that is indicated for the channeled version is too long. Perhaps, they mixed up the numbering in the instructions. I had to use the shorter driveshaft indicated for the highboy version, 2. I had to drill another hole in the transmission stem to accommodate the longer mount on the transmission crossmember to get the engine anywhere near the engine mounts. 3. The smaller engine that looks like a small block chevy (not indicated anywhere what it is suppose to be) does not reach the engine mounts on both sides of the frame. I probably should have elongated the mounts on the frame but I already had the rear axle in place so I was trying to line up the engine, transmission and driveshaft all in the same glue application so I had to line up the engine so that it fit into the right side engine mount and the left side is just hanging onto the edge of the slot on the engine. 4. The exhaust headers are much smaller and a different configuration. you can see this in the photo with the originally issued Revell 29 Ford Roadster. The exhaust header sweeps down and away from the body which is very eye-pleasing. The smaller ones in this re-crafted kit will probably rub the body. Here are a few photos with the previously built Highboy version of the original kit. I think you can see the difference. I'm glad I have another original kit in the wrapper so the next time I want to build a 29 Ford I'll use it.
  10. Your right, Carl! It has rained twice this morning and its not even noon yet. It keeps the temps down but its awful for painting! I built the engine this morning and added plug wires. The coil wire is still loose but I've created a coil with bracket that I will attach to the firewall on the right side. I wanted to leave room for attaching the headers to the block and the exhaust pipes at the same time so I routed the wires underneath where the headers mount.I left most of the chrome parts chrome except for the carbs and alternator. Everything looks like it fits; motor mounts line up OK and distributor fits in the firewall niche. I will blackwash the intake and carbs then mount everything before I add the air cleaners as I would probably just knock them off while mounting the engine. Thanks for looking! ?
  11. Thanks, All! I appreciate your comments! I'm unable to use a clear lacquer due to hot and humid weather right now. So I tried the Pledge Floor Gloss (the old Future) and it worked well just brushing it on and letting it dry overnight. I also rubbed it out a bit with some Scratch X to even out the finish and get rid of the uneven sparkle. I finished the interior painting as well so now its just a matter of assembly. Here are a few pics. Thanks for looking! ?
  12. I agree, that dash is just killer with all those gauges with faces and it looks like clear covers! Nice work! ?
  13. I bought this one the other day and its a modification of the original 1929 Ford Roadster of a couple of years ago. I've gotten some paint on it but clear is still to come. I had a little bit of Tamiya Light Green Pearl and Testors Grabber Green that I wanted to use up. I am going to build the channeled version but using the steel wheels. First, I had to straighten out the windshield frame and get the window in place. Here's a partial mock=up of what it will look like. Thanks for looking! ?
  14. Thanks all1 I appreciate your comments! ?
  15. Thanks, All! I appreciate your comments! ?
  16. Thanks, John! I appreciate your comment!
  17. Looks good, MrMike! I am getting ready to build this one but I think I'll do the channeled version. Yours looks very good in the Highboy style! ??
  18. Its done! Lots of little problems in the interior and bumpers. The body looks good, good stance and nice engine. I fixed the distributor by cutting down the stem and now the hood fits better. Not sure I like the windows that mount from the outside. I probably should have installed them first and then foiled them. Its an OK kit but I'm glad I didn't pay retail plus sales tax for it!
  19. Thanks, Gerald, Marcus and Carl! I appreciate the comments! Its done! Lots of little problems in the interior and bumpers. The body looks good, good stance and nice engine. I fixed the distributor by cutting down the stem and now the hood fits better. Not sure I like the windows that mount from the outside. I probably should have installed them first and then foiled them. Its an OK kit but I'm glad I didn't pay retail plus sales tax for it!
  20. Its on wheels! Only a few more pieces and decals. The front bumper and stone guard were a complete fail on this kit. I decided to mount them my own way by gluing the bumper ends to the body with super glue. The front and rear bumpers were also dullcoted to look like aluminum although you may not be able to tell. Hood doesn't fit well but I am undecided about shortening the distributor stem to fix it. There's still time to fix it even after everything is done. Thanks for looking! ?
  21. Thanks, Carl! Its all shined up and ready for foil and decals!
  22. Thanks, Carl. No, its the distributor that is too tall. I may cut the stem down but that will be tricky trying to re-attach the distributor. I got paint on it today but it was a struggle due to the humidity. I had to paint on the back patio, then run inside with the body still wet, wait 5-10 minutes and give it a second coat the same way. Same for the stone shield and hood. 3 coats of paint, 3 coats of clear. I got a good bright red finish but it is still a little flat. I'll have to rub everything out and shine it up good with some Scratch-X and some Meguiar's wax. Once that is done I can get it foiled and finished! Thanks for looking! ? Started rubbing out the top this afternoon.
  23. I haven't been able to paint yet but I have completed the interior, engine and chassis and have everything assembled. I mocked up the body on the assembly and I am glad I did. I found that the windshield wouldn't fit over the tach and the steering wheel was too high. So I drilled a new hole in the dash closer to the edge and in the gulley in the dash and even had to move the dash back (not using the pins on the dash in the doors but just gluing it in and using a clamp). I dabbed some paint in the old drilled hole so I don't have a glue blob on the dash just a paint blob. I also adjusted the steering column by shortening it and gluing it in at a better angle. After doing all that, the windshield can be fitted to the body even though it still touches the tach. Other than that the body fits over the chassis/interior/engine assembly pretty well, the stance looks good and the engine compartment will be tight once the front fenders are glued down. The hood fits but is touching the distributor that I added and it may be pushing the hood up just a bit but I can't see under the hood. Thanks for looking!?
  24. Update: I just received my paint and painted the stone guard to test it out. Looks like a brighter red color to me, just a little brighter than the Italian Red but not orange. The spark plug wire is orange and the stone guard is red. Now, unfortunately, I have to wait on the weather as it is much too humid to paint. Just that little bit of paint on the stone guard already orange-peeled and will have to be rubbed out. Maybe it will become less humid with a tropical storm moving in. Ha! ?
  25. Thanks, Carl, Gerald, and Tom. I appreciate your comments! Tom, I have the same concerns as you do about the bright red. I have another color using an Ironlak paint called Fluroro Red. Its a acrylic resin according to the can and is used for outdoor street artists or as I call them, "taggers". I used it on the Mustang in the photo and it does darken down a bit with clear lacquer but I think I might have gotten lucky and I'm concerned about the multiple darts and crevices on the Comet body. If the Tamiya I bought is too orange I might just get another can of Italian Red and use it. Thanks for looking! ?
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