rsxse240

The bad thing is the sister kits (the 93 Cobra and the GT Convertible) had amazing headlights with buckets behind the lenses. Maybe the SVO was the basis of the Cobra and convertible and they made improvements. Who knows. Anyway you put it, I have some good looking lenses now.

I am just DROOLING over here! I recall see the build thread of the Willis but don't remember the trailer or trike. Do I see twin Briggs and Stratton engines on there?

I wasn't happy with the clear version of the kit headlights, so I re-molded them to have buckets behind the turn/park lamps. I also finished up the new rear inner-fenders and drilled and painted the exhaust. I lowered the suspension about 1/16" and I can't deny, it is amazing how much better it looks as opposed to the kit ride height. (Pics to come later). There really isn't a lot more to do, but the clear coat is being very stubborn and it isn't getting very shiny. I can't assemble anything else until I get the paint done. Soon as I figure that out it'll be "Under Glass".

That's a very sad story. I feel your pain. I've not had a decent paint job in a couple of years because of stupid stuff like this. I gotta say, Psycho' is probably right about the wax trapping gasses. Or the wax might not be compatible with the paint. It is very difficult to say. I would be sure to let it cure for a week or two before waxing it after you repaint.

Very cool! I've been wanting to build something like this in 1:1 but $$$ lol! I'll be watching this!

Proof that a polished turd can shine up very nicely! Great looking Charger! Both of them.

So, as amazing as your customs are, do you have any that are finished? Lol. Don't get me wrong, I do honestly love the custom work and in progress and in primer is the best way to show off your work. I'd just like to see something you have built that is done. I bet it is phenomenal!

I have always wanted to take a full size 73-79 Bronco and re-skin it with a 1967-72 body. Then of course make the 4 door bronco with the 67-72 body. Ford did sell quite a few of the 67-72 F100 pickups to the Santa Fe railroad company and other companies that had them converted to crew cabs. But Ford didn't actually start production of crew cabs until 1976, I believe.

They look amazing! I'm going to have to try this out. Thanks for the quick how-to! I'm sure I'm not the only one who will benefit from it.

I have heard so many horror stories of this model. It is a gorgeous model but it is such a pain to build.

As I am always changing my mind on the direction of my builds and haven't settled on a wheel design, I haven't decided if I am going 50's custom, modern lowrider, high tech retro performance or even a rat rod, I haven't done anything with the wheel openings. My initial thought was to radius the opening to fit the wheel/tire combo, but I haven't even settled on wheels! Lol

Soak in some NEW super clean to strip it. Next polish it out and seal it with a high quality clear coat that can go under your tinting paint and try it again.

How did you make the PVC windshield? Where did you get the material and what thickness did you use?

Looking at my Revell 1993 Cobra I was seeing some things that needed attention. The wheel wells are non-existent. So I found a chassis with some decent wheel wells from the parts box, I think it was from a Buick. Some fancy cutting, super-glue, and some putty later and a you have a reasonable wheel well. Now I'm going to blob in some Tamiya primer to give it an under-body coating texture, some semi-gloss or flat black and some weathering to match the rest of the chassis. Then on to the front.

Good plan. I'll see about finding some, or something that would be close.

Thanks for the compliment. I had to have another go at the paint, so another setback. One more wetsand and a final color coat, trim and final assembly. HOPEFULLY all goes well.

Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to see if I can do something about it. The top edges of the bed sides are pretty much stuck, unless I rebuild the whole thing but the fenders are fair game. And, no, it isn't yet finished. I kinda lost motivation on it because my imagination was hurting, so I put it up for a while.

You do have some very interesting and outrageous ideas. I love it. I hope you don't mind if I share my most ambitious custom project. '50 Chevy p.u., '53 'vette front, stretch cab, '53 Belair ¼ panels, parts box roof chopped up for rear of bed and 1:72 scale airplane wings for bedsides.

Yeah, I was thinking the same thing. I mean, I don't really ever build for historical accuracy, just for what I love. The thing I love about the Love's Fuel Trucks is the paint job/colors. I am also going to go to Basket Market again and get one or two more of these and do a Flying-J and maybe modify one to make one to resemble a local fuel transport company that runs a bunch of these rolling custom truck shows. Thanks for your input, Chris.

You have done the un-doable! You have achieved the un-achievable! Obtained the unobtainable! You have done what has been a proven fact can not be done! You made an AMC Pacer look cool! Now, I need you to focus on fixing the national debt, the U.S. Political system, world peace, and hunger. All of these things PALE in comparison to the challenge you accepted when you opened the box on that model.

Hey guys, I need to know what trucks Love's Truck Stop used before they went to the current Freightliner. I bought a RM Snap together Mack with the fuel tanker and want to build the trailer as a Love's truck. Also, where can I find some better wheels and tires for 1:35 American semi-trucks and trailers?

Basket Market score (hobby lobby close out store) they were marked down to $15! They only had one of the Super Bosses, but several of the Mack truck sets. I also found a resin '50 Ford COE at Top Shelf Hobbies in Tulsa.

I just painted a '48 Ford Woody with a very similar color and it sprayed so we'll through my airbrush. It is LA Colors Sea Foam. You can see the part number on the UPC label if you want to use it. It cost a buck at the Dollar Tree and thinks with about 60% lacquer thinner to 40% paint.

Any of the colors you mentioned are flat colors used in military application. Your best bet is to find out the paint code and go to your local Automotive supply store and see if you can get some Duplicolor or maybe they can mix up a spray can of your desired color. Automotive spray paint is very "hot" and will attack the styrene model so you WILL need to use a primer and the Duplicolor primer is great stuff. Be absolutely certain to use thin coats and build it up to the final color depth and follow the directions as for weather conditions, time between coats, etc.