Thank Gene. Love your new avatar. Funny story, I loved Batman as a kid. When I watched the show and there was a fight scene I would asked my mom or my older sisters to read the graphics for me. So there they were yelling "POW" or "KABLAM" while I acted out the fight scene. It must have been quite a sight.
Thanks Tommy. Yes the kit does include the driving lights but not the covers. Reji makes a resin transkit which includes the light covers and decals plus a few other bits.
Ask yourself this question. Your at a car show or watching Barrett Jackson on TV, there is a '68 Camaro restomod with a giant crate motor and an original Z28 setting side by side - which gets you more excited?
Thanks for following Tommy.
Here is the completed exhaust.
From this angle you can see why the Rally Prep Manual recommended the recess in the chassis pan, it really gets the exhaust system up and out of harms way.
And as a model builder if you take all the original parts and set them aside and build it with modern parts what have you learned about the original subject and why the car was significant?
I’m glad we have some within the industry commenting and I get why people ask for it and why as shop owners you build it for them. And I get that in hot rodding there really are no rules, if it makes it go faster bolt it on.
But at some point if all you are left with is the original car's silhouette I think you have lost sight with the purpose of bringing the car back to life.
If you take a ’63 Vette and hang it on a C4 chassis, engine and running gear is it still a ’63 Vette? It’s still cool, fast and handles like a dream but in my mind it has transformed into something else.
Are you using wiring or tubing? If you are using tubing it will never drape properly because it won't hold a shape. Looks also like the gauge (diameter) of what you are using is a bit too large.
Crate motors have no identity, no soul. There's a reason we remember engines like 440 six packs, 327s, flatheads and HiPos. They are identifiable in how the engine looks like and the car it belongs too.
If I am at a car show or watching an auction on TV and I see a vintage car with a modern engine my reaction is always disappointment. I get why it is done. Modern engines and suspension outperform period parts often for fractions of restoring or purchasing original parts. But to me it just runs counter to the purpose of restoring the car.
When I look under the hood of ‘66 Mustang I want to see a 289 HiPo not a 5.0 crate motor. When I look under a ’32 Ford, I want to see buggy springs not coil overs. And I want the same thing from the kits I buy, I want period parts. They don’t all have to be stock parts but I want them to be of the time period.
Maybe it’s my age bias (I'm AARP eligible). What is your opinion?
You might try flooding the styrene area where you want the captured nut to be with liquid cement thus softening the plastic. Then press the nut into the soften plastic and it should make a recessed formed around the nut which when dried would keep it from turning.