Peter Lombardo

Very nice.....I love that fact that we are thinking the exact same way as I am in the middle of a near clone of this dragster. I am using a Jimmy Flintstone resin body, which, most likely is the same one you got from Ebay. Very nice....I like the "Tin Box" graphics too...very clever title. Looking very sharp.

What do you know, I missed the "bashing" too! At the risk of making a comment on something I did not personally see....this sure sounds like "Treehugger part II". It is for these kinds of juvenile antics that I am limiting my posting lately. I don't know what others think, but I sure miss seeing Dave's inspired builds.....I would sure hate to lose Johns for a similar reason.

It goes without saying....our prayers are with you two. P.S. Just watch, She'll get through it. Keep us informed.

Well you guys are right, the Nissan GT-R will never win a beauty contest….but it will out perform most super cars costing over $100,000 MORE! From the drivers’ seat, you can’t see the ugly shape outside, but from outside you can see the huge smile on the face of the driver that just smoked your butt. I like a pretty car….but a fast car that can handle….now that is a thing of pure beauty.

A few weeks ago I posted some shots of the chassis for the long wheelbase dragster….since then I have gotten a bit more of it done. Normally, I build street rods, customs, concepts, F1’s and my own designs, but every now and then, it is fun to do a drag car. I am partial to the 1960’s era cars because as a teenager, they were what I thought about. I know the new stuff is great with the wild plumbing, crazy scoops and “big†everything….so here are two early era cars I am working on. The chassis is completely scratch built using plastic tubes and metal rods encased in plastic for the main frame rails. This is not patterned after one particular dragster, but more like what I would have liked to have built, if I were looking to build a dragster back in the late 60’s or early 70’s. The area around the cockpit is sheet styrene to replicate the rolled steel or aluminum that would be on a real car. The interior area is half round styrene cut and glued down. Later it will be painted to look like naugahyde vinyl “tuck and roll†which was popular back then. The body is a Jimmy Flintstone resin of a ’32 Bantam Coupe. I added a new firewall section, interior wheel well surrounds and removed the rather lame looking parachute pack that was on the rear. I cut it away, glued on a plate that will hold the new chute which will be held on with magnets imbedded in both parts so that when the body is removed, the chute can remain connected to the rear end of the dragster. The rear end is a piece lifted from the Tony Nancy dragster (the silver car) as are the front motorcycle tires. I will use them only if I can’t find photoetch ones. The rear slicks and wheels also came from that kit. The front axle is the R & D Unique unit sold as “Curbside Dioramicsâ€. I cut away the spring and attachment points and articulated the axle so the wheels will turn. I love how those old dragsters looked with their front axle mounted at a 40 or so degree angle back, so that the wheels leaned when they were turned. Obviously, the axle will be connected to the steering wheel with a very long link and l have to scratch build it in the appropriate “Butterfly†style. I am also planning a small narrow wing over the nose of the chassis….I have seen a number of cars from that era with small wings so it would period correct The engine is a Ross Gibson resin piece. It is the 392 Hemi “Top Fuel Drag Race Engineâ€. I like the engine as it looks just as I remember those old “Digger†engines looked, but I was not happy with the head covers, even though they provide you with 3 different sets, so I replaced them with a pair from Altered States, which I really like. This engine also came with an injector hat that I also was not crazy about….it looks just like that huge thing that sits atop the Revell Parts Pack Ford 427, I also replaced it with an injector scoop from Altered States. I added a fuel pump up front on the engine and will hook that up to a fuel tank riding up front in the chassis…both of them also came from Altered States Resin. On the left side of the chassis, just forward of the engine, there is a plate glued on, that will house the Dual Remote Oil Filters and Bracket from Machine Aluminum Specialties. The engine is wired up and all of the fuel and oil lines will be in place. The headers, or zoomies were fashioned from pieces of solid core solder. I bent them into shape and then drilled out the ends which are painted exhaust black. I was very happy with the result. I am not sure what color this will be yet…..I like the idea of white and candy blue….a white chassis and white trim on the mostly candy blue body. I am also thinking of some graphics for the name which at this point , the project is named “Bad A$$ Bantamâ€â€¦I am liking a small rendering of a kid “mooning†his opponent. There is not a lot of space on the body, so it would have to be pretty small…..but it could be funny. The next car is one that I have been working on very slowly for the past few years. It is a Fiat bodied altered gasser. The chassis is also scratch built with the same kind of materials as the long wheel base car, it is pattered after the Wild Willy cars chassis. The body is the beautiful resin re-pop of the old Revell Parts Pack Fiat body. I mated it up with the Pontiac 421 Parts Pack engine, which is still missing much of it’s plumbing, but it will get attached as some point, parts box wheels and tires and the same R & D Unique front axle, only this one has the springs, shocks and all of the hardware attached. I also articulated this one so that the wheels turn. I have a neat turned fuel tank which will be mounted just ahead of the engine and the exhaust headers dump into collectors that will exit under the floor of the car (a separate piece) I also have not finalized the color combo on this one, but the chassis is flat black and I am thinking maybe a pearl white, yellow and candy purple with a smattering of candy blue too….we’ll see as I get into that part of the build. I still don’t have a name for this one…these cars always had a name…something catchy…..something unique….I will have to do more research on it.

Beautiful job.....anyone who as ever done one of those "enthusiast" knows how difficult and demanding they can be. Easy to make a mess of, but when done right, they look great....this one looks great. The paint finish and the wheels look perfect....I am impressed.

Great looking build(s) Matt, you are right about the Fujimi kits, they are a real struggle to get right, but once built, I love their look. I like the two cars together, nice shot side by side......both are well done.

Nice work....and I agree with Foxer, the Camel decals make a huge difference. I built that one a while ago....so long ago that the Tamiya decals in the kit had the Camel logos and the Lotus logos. Not so today. Very clean build and your yellow looks just like the Camel yellow....good match. The yellow stands out nice, but those Lotus's always looked better, my opinion, in the John Player Special Black and Gold (biscuit). Always great to see these F1 cars coming out of hiding. Well done.

Gentleman, I am truly overwhelmed by all of the positive responses to my build....thanks, I appreciate it, and I appreciate how many of you guys like F1 cars. I really didn't realize that. Smokey, I was admiring your Fiat dragster at NNL East a few weeks ago, that car really stood out...really sharp looking build, very unique use of the scoop. Kane, the photo-etched kit was made by Hasegawa, but it is a separate purchase. I ordered the car and photo-etch together from HLJ.com. I certainly would recommend the photo-etch to anyone looking to build this kit, if just for the turned intake trumpets and mesh air filters over each. Overall, I was very impressed with Hasegawa's move into Tamiya's wheelhouse. They "out" Tamiya'ed Tamiya. I love customs and rods, but every now and then I really enjoy these great old classic F1 cars. Again, thanks for the kind words.

Here is the latest build I just started. A few weeks ago while at the NNL East, I picked up a couple of resin bodies from Jimmy Flintstone….a 34 Ford Sedan, which I cut the doors open on for a future build on the 34 Ford Coupe chassis. I got this really cool 1927 Ford roadster body with a “track nose†which I will convert into a Flat Head Salt Flat speedster very similar to the cover car on the current issue of the “Rodders Journalâ€. But the subject of this post is the chopped, shortened and cut up 1932 Ford body. I am custom scratch building a nice long low dragster chassis for this body. I am patterning it after the dragster chassis from the Tony Nancy Dragster double kit from the 1960’s…..but mine will be much longer ….just because I think it will look better that way. I have a nice “period correct†resin Ross Gibson 392 Blown Hemi for this and sharp working drop axle front end with cycle front tires. The chassis is made from plastic coated steel rod pieces for the main chassis and just plastic styrene rods for the support pieces. I have a long way to go on this chassis, but I got off to a good start so far.

Finished this the other day….I know, F1, not any ones “cup of tea†here….sorry…..anyway, this is my favorite F1 car from a great era of real racing….back when overtaking another driver was done on the track, not in the pits. Anyway, this is the Hasegawa 1/20 scale 1975 Ferrari 312T of Niki Lauda from his World Championship Year. The car was built with the Hasegawa photo-etch dress-up pieces too. The paint is Italian Red from Tamiya and Duplicolor White, all clear coated. After the decals were applied, the body panels were coated with Future to seal everything. The driver figure is a Tamiya piece with a working movable visor. I have the hole drilled in the helmet, and the oxygen line is in place but I have not connected it to the helmet yet….sorry. I also have the Hasegawa 312T2 and the Tamiya 312T3 to complete to go with this car. Ok, you are board enough looking at it….I know….avert your eyes….quickly, they may begin to burn…..Oh the horror……F1 models! Sorry.

Completed this a few weeks ago……Revell 1956 Chevrolet Nomad Wagon. Top is chopped, doors are opened and hinged and the windshield is laid back. Front bucket seats are beautiful resin seats I was sent by Crazy Jim (Jim Stepanek). He does some absolutely beautiful resin pieces….I got these great looking seats, some beautiful Mag. Wheels and really sharp looking disk brakes….check out his web site at….Crazy Scale Auto Parts. Anyway, I added a Corvette manifold and head shrouds to the basic Chevy 283 from the kit. The rear view mirrors are from a Corvette, and just for the record, the hood fits like dog junk…I was really surprised at how Revell engineered it. The paint is Model Master Acryl Napoleonic Violet and Camouflage Gray, sanded and clear coated…and lots of Bare Metal Foil.

Hey dudecicle, that is gnarly. Way kool. (very nice job)

Hey John, what is your problem???? You just can't leave a molded piece of plastic alone very long, can you? No matter what, you have to cut it, bend it, shape it, add to it, and change it! What did you never hear of "Box Stock"?? You just never seem satisfied to build something simple do you? No, it's always something unique with you, isn't? I am getting just a little tired of telling you that your work is great and very inspiring, so if it is all the same with you, could you maybe tone down your next project? You know, use only the parts from one kit. Maybe no custom decal work....maybe go easy on the paint. Come on, try something normal one of these times, ok? By the way, I am really enjoying this one....really, keep it going, (I say that like you weren't planning on doing just that)

I like ZZ Top just fine and 32, 33, and 34 Fords are great as far as I am concerned, but I never had any interest in that kit....after hearing all of the issues, I guess I did the right thing staying away from it. But I have a question....is it me or did I miss something here....is the decal upside down for a reason or did they have to modify it because of licensing or some other crazy reason? Or am I just looking at this after a few too many Bourbons on the rocks? Just wondering. Anyway, keep banging away at it....it is looking pretty good so far.

Very nice job, very very clean and meticulous. I guess there is something about that car that makes one want to replicate it....it should have been a kit by Fujimi. I felt compelled a few years ago to do one. I was happy with my windshield that I vacuum formed by hand (not easy to do....done long before I got a unit to do vacuum forming) but not thrilled with my side windows....so like you one of these days I will have to fix the issues with it. Well, here's mine. Again, very nice job on her.

Hey Doc, I love the color...deep rich blue...sweet! You have become rather prolific lately...every time I tune in, you have something new to show. One question...what happens down there in Florida when you are out with that car and the omnipresent afternoon thunder-boomer comes along?

Nice job on the Mustang...one of these days I want to do a Trans Am Mustang. Looks really good.

Great looking Porsche.....especially the paint...very slick.

It would be very difficult to find any fault here. Very nicely done...all of the accents are dead on. The wheels set it off very well and the engine is perfect.

Hey Howard, I will be there, (it's only a 20 minute drive from my house), barring a world ending cataclysmic event. I look forward to meeting you....it should be a fun day. I almost forgot to mention this, I really am looking forward to seeing what you did to the bodies.....its like going to see one of your kids in a school play!

This will be interesting! Great start...you are doing a very skilled job of mating the two bodies together.I find the real car rather ungainly and odd looking , but it is different. Go for it and have fun with it.

I was not planning to post any shots of these until done, but what the hey….why not, with snow on the ground I can't play golf today. Among others, I am working on these two right now. First up, and most likely of little interest to most of you guys is the absolutely beautiful 1/20th scale kit by Hasegawa of the 1975 Ferrari 312T. I am doing the Niki Lauda version of the winning car in the 1975 Monaco GP. This car has always been my favorite F1 car of all time, followed closely by the Williams FW14B that Nigel Mansell won the World Championship in 1992 in….which I have and will build soon in 1/20 scale, and I have a completed 1/24 scale of it….I know, big deal who cares…it’s just an F1 car…. anyway, here is the motor and transmission on the Ferrari with the spark plugs and fuel lines in place. The body is painted and waiting to dry and then I will get to final assemble……I am looking forward to that…..this will be complete with Niki behind the wheel. The second build I am working on is a 1956 Chevrolet Nomad wagon. As you can see, it is mostly done in primer now. I chopped the top about 3 scale inches and laid back the windshield to a more modern rake. The original design is very upright, which works ok on the standard height roof, but with the chop, I like the raked windshield better. I like the reverse symmetry of the lines of the A and B pillars with the rake I added. I made the A pillar from sheet styrene and used a couple of different size styrene strips for the new molding I added which later will be BMF’ed. As you can see I opened the doors. I used my standard shaped hinge design which, depending upon the direction they are installed, gives you the “door opening in†style or the “door opening out†style. This car has the former so the doors are opening in, which is the more modern way of doing things. I like this style of hinge because it is easy to shape, it works great either direction and you can leave it so the door will slide off the car so it can be removed after the car is done…..if that matters to you. Next, I cut out the interior panels for the doors. You can see the marks I put into the top of the panel and door to aid in the alignment of the panels when I finally permanently attached them. I glue spacers to the inside of the door so that the inner panel is the proper distance and closes properly. When dry I fill in the gaps with Bondo. When the Bondo is just firmly set (about 3 to 4 minutes) I use a sharp knife to cut away the excess Bondo. Once fully dry I sand everything smooth. If I screw up and have a small imperfection or gap, I just fill that with regular modeling putty and sand smooth when dry. I like this method of making the door jams as it does a nice job without a lot of drama…….no more cutting styrene filler pieces to fit in a long “trial and error†episode and glue smears all over the place. I have shaved off the insignias and door handles along with the rather large center trim piece on the hood. This car will be painted in a two tone combo with Off-White on the roof and rear quarter panels and light soft pastel purple on the hood, front quarter and lower body below the spear molding. The interior will be a light Ivory off-white and light tan combo. I am planning on using the kit version custom wheels and tires and engine….but I want to make a unique intake system for the engine….so it is a small block Chevy, but I am not sure yet how the air and gas get into it.

Congrats!!!! My wife and I am coming up on #36, I am sure you will agree....it goes by like a blink of the eye. Congratulations...it is a great ride when you choose well....well, if she chooses well, I should say.

Very, very nice....those 60's and 70's bubbletop creations were huge hits back then....very rare today. Nice job, this looks great.