Peter Lombardo

Curt, great job as usual. I love all of those 312'2 with the huge Boxer 12. Very nice job. I plan on doing the 3 cars prior to this one over the summer this year in 1/20 scale. Ok, is that 1 done now?

Chris, my brother is also a sign maker, we make painting masks out vinyl with his cutter too. I is really fun designing the masks and painting unique strips, flames and graphics. We are also now doing decals too. I love the look this gives with painted on graphics. Keep it up. Very cool.

This is great! I love the traditional Hot Rod flames on a traditional Hot Rod, and you nailed this. Just a perfect combo yellow/orange flames on black....it doesn't get any better. Beautiful, just beautiful.

Great paint....this is a perfect example of how a great paint job (black is so difficult to get clean ans shiny) can make even a straight up build look really impressive. Just beautiful, clean and simple.

WISE-GUY!!!!

This is WAY beyond impressive....this is way beyond what we normally do.

Guys, I am a little confused by all of this comparison of the magazine format stuff. Really, why bother? We, (all of us on the forum) obviously prefer MCM, and for a variety of solid reasons. Obviously, Gregg and Harry get it!!!! They know what we want and do their best to provide it. Any successful business operates in that way…..â€Give the people what they wantâ€â€¦..and from what I see, these guys do their best to accomplish that. But we all like different aspects of the hobby, so pleasing all, all of the time is impossible. Back in the day, I used to get the “Brand X†publication, but quite frankly, after the sale to Kalmbach Publishing, I felt that the publication began a long slow slide downward. It got thinner, less relevant and more repetitive in my eyes and I stopped reading it. I get my MCM from my local hobby shop in an effort to keep him in business. I buy as much from them as I can because I see them also falling victim to the electronic media (Internet stores, with lower overhead and wider selection). I see no reason for us to be complaining here about Brand X. Gregg and Harry do their thing, Kalmbach does theirs. The last time I checked, this was still a free country where we have the pleasure of choosing what we want to read and buy. I, for one, am thankful for whatever I can get in the way of model building content that is different and new. Guys, if we spent as much time creating and planning our next build, as we spend complaining about things we can’t control, we would all increase our completed model output exponentially.

I am not in the publishing business, nor do I want to be. I can only imagine how difficult it must be….deadline after deadline. I also think finding relative and interesting content must also be difficult today. As advertisers dwindle, so does revenues. As new product slows, so does the excitement on new “stuffâ€â€¦.the lifeblood of the hobby. As less “new be’s†numbers drop, so does circulation. I used to get a few golf magazines but stopped them….I mean; really, every issue had articles on “how to cure my slice†or “how to drain every puttâ€, or even, “How to hit it fartherâ€. Then they would have the same old interviews with golfing “Millionaires†that I really don’t need to hear about. The only information I really appreciated was the equipment reviews, but really, I don’t buy golf equipment that often. The point of this is the magazines became boring, predictable, over loaded with the same old ads and not entertaining enough to read. I think the same can be true for model magazines too….especially for us more “seasoned†builders. I think Gregg and Harry, and this is just my opinion…I could be totally out of whack here, have a very difficult time making a magazine that is interesting, different and relevant each issue. How many articles about “how to apply Bare Metal Foilâ€, or “how to make door hinges†or “how to polish a car to a killer shineâ€? Think about it, most of us know these things. And in an age of slowing growth….less younger modelers coming into the hobby….there just is less need for all of these “how to†articles. And on top of that, this very forum stands in direct competition with the magazine, as we post “how to†stuff in here every day. We post new pictures every minute of every day. Back in the day (before the forum), I would get the two model magazines and pour through them looking for pictures of “new†builds because I was very interested in what everyone else was building. Think about this, when someone opens a post here, they go straight for the pictures. I tend to write as detailed an explanation of my builds as possible to go along with my pictures, but I am willing to bet that most just look at the pictures. We all go for the “eye candyâ€â€¦.just like in the old days with “Playboyâ€â€¦.hey, I didn’t “read†the magazine for the articles….did you? So how do you keep a “print†magazine relevant in an electronic age? Especially difficult when you manage an electronic forum that is FREE and in direct competition with yourself in a time with dwindling new relative content? The younger kids coming into the age where they could get into modeling have way too many distractions today. When I was a kid, back in the early 1960’s, this was it…modeling was one of the great hobbies to get into. Not today. To many electronic games, gadgets and toys to contend with. On top of that, there really isn’t much “New†in the model kit industry today…..sure we get a smattering of new product and re-issues of old stuff, but paint is paint…glue is glue…putty is putty….and….plastic is plastic. Keeping a magazine full of new content is difficult enough, but when the subject matter is staying static, it is even more difficult. We are a very demanding bunch…if we don’t get new exciting pictures, new releases and new techniques every issue, we cry out that it is boring. Just like the Golf magazines….Woods are Woods, Irons are Irons and a good swing cures all ills. Model magazines face the same obstacles. Paint is paint, plastic is plastic, and new content and product makes us happy. The hobby is relatively static, therefore content is relatively static. Sure, I am over simplifying a bit here. Glues have improved and paints have improved over time too….even the molding process has improved from the ‘60’s to today, but really, a 1957 Chevy circa 1962, and a 1957 chevy from 2001 are not that much different. We need a few new innovations to bring some new interest to the hobby and the magazine. I think the next big “thing†will be the ability for us to make our own model car kits from a computer database with a new generation of Stereo lithography machines….but that is still a little way off. It is a shame we don’t have a Tiger Woods in the modeling community….you know, someone who could get press overage outside of the tight little modeling community that we have. Someone to draw attention to the hobby through exploits outside of the hobby….any volunteers? Anyway, I don’t envy Gregg and Harry here, they are fighting an uphill battle keeping the magazine smart and relevant in a time when the main subject matter is standing relatively still. Ok, rebuttals please. :) :)

Very nice, I love the details. I have that kit....one of these days I will get to it. Just a point for Dave, years ago Hasegawa did the same car in 1/24 scale. I have that one built and detailed....it builds to a very good look replica.

Brendon, this is very nice. I love the decsls, they look sharp with the black base coat. Nice clean build....just like the Audi. I want the Audi (on back order), but I may also get the MB too after seeing yours. Very nice.

WOW, I am very impressed. I was not sure about how the '57 chevy fins would work on this, but I guess it will be ok. I think pure Mopar styling ques would be more to my liking....maybe not having "cross-pollination" from GM to Chrysler, but hey, this is what makes the world go around....we all have different views. Anyway, I certainly can find nothing to say about the superb craftsmanship except it is truly impressive. Keep it going.

You did a great job on this...I want one of these but lately it has been on backorder...I will get one. I really like how clean your build of it is...nice job. My only reservation on this one is the crazy "ladder" rear wheel venting system, bit I can overlook that.

Here is my completed 1962 Chevrolet Belair Coupe with a Corvette engine, chassis and stretched interior. If you are interested in what I did to get to this point, look up my “on the Workbench†posting for the meat and potatoes of the conversion. Briefly, starting up front in the engine bay, everything in there came from the Corvette with the exception of the twin turbo’s and inter-coolers which were scratch built. All of the tubing is 2.5mm flexible wire hose that I got from HLJ.com used mainly for Sci-Fi modeling. The connectors are small strips of blue masking tape with wire tie down clamps. The two struts were made from micro brass tubing and wire. The front tilting hood has a double hinge set-up that allows the hood to move forward and then tilt up and open. I needed to have the hood move forward before tilting up so it clears the front grille. The doors were cut open and the Corvette Interior was stretched with a modified Firebird rear seat. The interior is paint with acrylic paints….Flat grey with a custom light greenish blue and metallic brown trim, to match the exterior pin striping. I added two speakers to the rear package panel and one each in the doors. The chassis is a stretched Corvette and the wheels are from a Corvette Z06. The car sits nice and low and the four Corvette exhaust pipes exit through the four holes in the rear bumper. The car is painted Viper Silver on top with a custom mix of Jacquard powdered pearl pigments of…silver, green, turquoise and green/blue duo flip-flop mixed with clear lacquer for the bottom. Once applied, tape removed and allowed to dry, it was covered with 2 coats of clear, lightly sanded both times after dry. Then a top layer of clear mixed with HOK Ice Pear Green pearl flakes to give both colors a bright fleck of green highlights in the sun. Once dry, I applied the vinyl burnt orange striping and another thin layer of clear topped that. Once that was dry, I applied Bare Metal Foil and once the car the windows were installed and the car was assembled, and bumpers set, the car got a final brushed on coat of Future. That is it. I really like this one…..personally, I like the fit of the Corvette power plant and updated chassis on the classic lines of the ’62 Belair.

Blake, first off, welcome to the forum….lots of talent and lots of know how in one place. Really, you only have two choices with painting car models. Rattle cans and airbrush. I use both and both have their place. If you want to get into custom colors and unique paint jobs, you really need an airbrush. Give this some thought….if you are serious, you need an airbrush. Go to your local hobby shop or art and craft store like Michaels and look around. I have two airbrushes, one cheaper, an Astek which works very well, if you keep it clean, and a more expensive Paasehe which also works great if you keep it clean. With an air brush you will need a source of compressed air. You can get cans of air (I have never used them) or a compressor. I have three of them. For painting I use a regulator, it goes between the compressor and the air brush hose. It controls the flow of air and traps any water that is produced in the compressor from getting into the air and therefore you paint job….P.S. water in the air is a very bad thing. If you stick with rattle cans, you are limited to the colors available, but with the air brush there is no limit. I mix my own paint colors all of the time, it is not that difficult to do. Lately I discovered Jacquard Pearl Pigments. I get them at either A.C. Moore, Michaels or an art store. They are a very, very fine grind paint pigment. They make around 30 colors….all different, all pearls and many what they call “Duo†which are really just “Flip-flop†colors…so from one direction they look, oh say, pink pearl, and from the other Blue pearl…really neat stuff. A bottle costs under $4.00 and if used properly, will get you 20 or so paint jobs. All I do is mix a very small amount of one, two or even three pigments into about an ounce of clear lacquer, although, you could use clear Tamiya or even Enamel if that is the type of paint you are using. You may have to thin down the paint depending on how thick the clear is, but it doesn’t need much thinner to get it right. The rule of thumb for airbrush paint is it should be the consistence of whole milk. Like I said, I sometimes use the rattle cans because they are rather quick and easy, but for real control and a variety of colors and custom work, you really need an airbrush. If you are going to be painting with vehicles with either, it is very important to remember a few basics. One, wash the car in hot soapy water first to remove any remains of the mold release agent the factory used. Two, lightly sand off any mold lines…also after you have done a few cars, look for obvious dips and sunken craters that will need to be filled. If you fill them, get a good putty (Tamiya is the best, but no longer imported…I get mine from Japan….HLJ.com to be exact.) Once dry, sand smooth using a very fine sandpaper last. Three, prime the car body with the proper kind of primer. I always use Rust-oleum Automotive Primer that I get at the hardware store for around $5.00. I works with all paint, even the hottest Lacquers (“hot†means a paint that un-primered, will eat into the plastic car body and cause the surface plastic to melt and get all “ickyâ€. Four, lightly sand the primer to get the body smooth and possible touch up any areas that need it. Five, when you have the body ready for paint, you must decide if the top coat will need a lighter base under it or not. Almost all top colors will look different depending upon what is underneath it. So, even though this primer that I use is light gray, sometimes I put down a layer of white paint to lighten up under the top color. An example of this is, say yellow. The yellow will appear darker over the primer without a layer of white between them…but if the top color is darker, then the added layer is really unnecessary. Six, many advocate heating the rattle can (assuming you are using a rattle can here) in hot water to bring the air pressure up inside the can, thin out the paint a bit and help it flow better. I have done this and don’t really find a big improvement over not doing it, but either way, it is very important to shake the can vigorously to get the paint mixed up and the gases in the can rather excited. Next and this is very important. Be sure to build up the color coats very slowly. Fight the impulse to do it all in one sitting. Lay down the color coat with a few light mist coats and give the paint a chance to build up. It is best to wait about 10 minutes or so between coats. You want the layer under the next coat to be just tacky enough so that the next layer will cling to the layer below it as this will help to eliminate any possible runs from aggressive paint application. The last coat should be a little heavier so that you get a nice smooth finish. Always begin pressing the rattle can button just off to the side of the car and then sweep the flow of paint over the car in one smooth steady motion. Never, and I mean never start the paint out of the can while aimed at the car….this is a great way to get bops and imperfections in the paint. Always begin off the car, and sweep onto the car. Seven, once done, LEAVE IT ALONE for a few days. Make sure it is in a dust free location, and always remember try to paint on “dry†days with very little humidity in the air….the water in the air will effect the finish and the drying time. Eight, if the paint is dry and looks good, you can now A….leave it as it is, B…sand it with a polishing kit ( this is another whole story in its self ) and rub it out with wax polish or C….clear coat it, lightly sand it and clear coat it. Nine, Many advocate, me one of them, using Future floor polish to put the final coat on the painted car. This stuff is great, an I could do another post on its use and advantages, but for now, it is easy to use this with just a larger soft brush. It is self-leveling so you can either apply with a brush or air brush (I have done both and see no real difference). You get it in the local food market or hardware store. Just brush on a light layer of Future, allow it to dry and even a so-so paint finish will jump to life with a new sparkle. If you are going to apply bare metal foil, I would do it before the Future coat and allow the Future to basically “seal†the edges of the BMF. That is it for painting, the way I see it. I hope this helps you. Others may have a different view or technique and that is fine as there are many ways to do these things. Good luck, but if I were you, knowing what I know, I would go out and buy a Astek airbrush and a small compressor, the regulator can wait a few months, but I would begin airbrushing as soon as possible….your cars and their paint will thank you for it.

Hey, I like this.....I have the kit, I plan on doing it a lighter purple and a gas tank rather than the pick up bed. I built it like this when I was a kid and I want to re-live the past a little. But, I like what you have done, the deep purple is really sharp....man those rear tires are really fat. Very nice build.

Tom, I missed this one before...it is really very nice. I really like the satin red finish of the pearl red without clearcoat. Very period correct and the white top just jumps out. The dash has some neat details in a very nice and clean interior too. Overall, this is a very classy build...I like it a lot!

Amazing....and you did this in what......5 or 6 weeks? Very impressive and I still can't believe that I never knew this thing existed before your build. :o

WOW....very impressive.

You know, after looking at the picture again, and hearing what everyone is saying, the simplest thing to do here, especially for Revell, would be to produce some of the "options" from this kit, such as the bubbletop, one or two of the custom grilles, a set or two of the wheels and short fenders and engine "toppers" options and market it as a "dress up" kit or options for a number of their '32 Ford kits. Think about it, guys would buy the dress up kit and many would have to purchase more of the '32, roadster, 3 and 5 window coupes and even the sedans....it would be a win-win for Revell without a huge tooling cost.....don't re-do what is already done, just enhance it. Just sayin'.

Absolutely, I am sure she will be fine....Doctors today are Gods miracle workers. We are all praying for her....you know that.

If I had a nickle for every mistake, screw-up or re-do I had to do, I would be retired in Florida playing golf right now. Relax, it is part of the joy of model building...besides, if it was easy to always get it "right", everyone would be doing it and the really great builders wouldn't be able to stand out. There is a very easy cure for this problem though.....keep building until you get it right more often than not. Most of us "older" builders have done just that. Just remember this....Never give in, never give up and never settle for good enough.

Boy Jairus, you are such a cynic!!!! (I happen to agree with you, though)

Harold, that reminds me of when I was in the Navy....we would get a new green pea on the ship and send him to the Boatswains locker for a gallon of sunshine, or a gallon of prop-wash, sometimes we'd send them for batteries for the "sound"-powered phones. It was always good for a laugh....especially if you have been out to sea for a few months non-stop.

Virgil is right, I also never tire of the '49, '50 and '51 Mercury, the quintessential Lead-sled's. I like the skirts and the shaved body frills.....looking good.

Wow, you sure are bringing this car back to life.....very impressive build....I really like it....keep it going.