Mrdarkmonkey96

You think the snap body and interior are better then the 3n 1 kit? I would rather get the 3n1for the extra parts value etc. I was mainly just disappointed with the undercarriage and engine/engine bay details.

It was the 70 streetburner 3n1

I want to make a better version of the revell chevelle 3n1 I built my dad, as I wasnt impressed with the detail. Im curious as to what the "best" kit is, both quality, accuracy and detail wise. Also if anyone has built this kit and detailed with photo etch badging etc, if you could comment the parts numbers that would be great!

Thanks fOr the help guys! How do people get such a great glossy finish on their engines? Ive tried spray paint and airbrushing model master, and it always comes out semi gloss, even when sprayed wet, which just covers all the detail.... Ive heard people use duplicolor engine enamel?

Im building a revell 68 dodge charger, the special edition one, and I want to detail it and what not with plumbing and wires, but I want to detail the chassis somewhat as well. Some one mentioned something called a trans kit? I it appears to be a bunch of photo etch stuff.... I was hoping someone could tell me what exactly you do to detail a model asides from plug wires...and aluminum pulleys.

That's good to know. In the long run its probably cheaper to just buy gallon of base, reducer, And catalyst. Thanks fir the info!

So what is the advantage of this over a dupont, PPG, etc.....Im guessing simply because its smaller quantities?

Is this a catalyzed urethane?

Looks good! I did the exact same thing when I built my cuda, but the decals over the panel lines on the doors is "incorrect. It would be like you taped the doors shut

Huh! I must have done 5 separate searches and nothing came up! Thanks!

most solder nowadays is actually lead free!

I plan on building this kit, and couldnt find a review on it. Im basically hoping someone could let me know if there are any innacuracies with the kit that should be fixed. I dont plan on using the flame decals for it, I was planning on doing a two tone similair to this Thanks.

what size wiring did you use for plumbing the engine?

Thanks! the funny thing is I actually wanted to paint it Go mango, but grabbed the wrong can!

Yeah they are currently. You must not have seen it, but I posted in the OP that I hadn't been able to paint em as its been too cold lately.

I spoke with some guys on a guitar refinish forum, and they said to shoot clear on the bare wood, then level sand, spray your candy, and then clear. Im curious if sanding the clear, as it fogs it as im sure anyone knows who works with clear, then spraying the cady over it, will it "re-wet" the clear so to speak, so that it turns clear again, and doesnt show the sanding scratches. I would test this but the paints being used are Pricey, and my friend is on a very small budget.

normally thats what I would do, but its some exotic type Ive never even heard of.. Im mainly concerned with the long term, is the paint going to slowly soak into the wood, or peel off, if the wood sweats etc etc

I have a friend who wants me to paint his bass with a transparent blue, so that the wood grain shows through. I plan on using a Kandy paint, with either duplicolor lacquer from the quart, or I might try 2K if I feel comfortable... My question is What do I do to the bare wood so it takes paint?? Ive never painted anything porous... Ive heard mention of Grain filler, but apparently this is an epoxy, and Im not sure on the compatibility of the epoxy filler, and urethane/lacquer color and clear. Obviously if i use urethane kandy I will use urethane clear, But Im fairly sure you can shoot 2K over lacquer. also, Is the grain filler clear? Basically once the wood is prepped and ready to go, I can take it from there.. Ugh, why cant the guitar just be made out of metal Any one with advice on this please send me a message, or post it below! Thanks!

Thanks! the real motivation was I didnt feel like masking off the windows and outside to paint the interior, and risk messing up the glassy clear coat, so I said I'll just tint the windows, and not do the interior! (lazy I know) normally I do the interior first, then mask off the windows from the inside, primer paint and clear, but I forgot to this time... but hey, theres always another one.

Make sure to send me some pictures when your done! I personally think its the black tint on the windows that really accents everything.

I don't mean to toot my own horn, but yes it sure does. Thank you!

What you could do is use transfer paper and find a picture of the stripes you want, then trace em on to the transfer paper, cut em out, put em on your car and paint away. That way the extra transfer paper masks off the body, and all you cut out is the negatives and use a small Amount of white and it looks correct.

Just some more pictures, this time in the sunlight, not overcast..

Well not what I wanted to hear.... I spent a lot of time on that paint... dang. Thanks anyways though guys.

Warped the body in the dehydrator...too much heat I guess... wierd how its just one side..... Do you think I can save it, and how? Will reheating pop it back, will it crack the paint etc...I've pretty much got it perfect and ready for clear and now it warped....