purepmd

Thank you all for the kind words. I got in a little bench time lately, so update photos are in order.I started to add some of the details back onto the cab, and not one to keep to the K.I.S.S. methodology, I figured it would be a good idea to make the service access doors on the front work. I used The Model Car Garage small photo etched piano hinges, some extra photo etched sheet to give them strength and an .005 sheet of styrene to make them easier to shape. I constructed the headlight buckets and fitted then to the cab. Just for fun. I threw some junk box bezels and a 1/16th scale enblem, which I will strip clean and reuse, to make the larger emblem.

I needed something for my 352H to be hooked to, so I have gt this in progress for just that task. I always liked the Ertl Great Dane reefer for having at least attempting to show some detail in the thermo king. I thought for a real nostalgic unit, (AMT), to be detailed would be fun. Having some H-O scale slot car stuff laying around promted me to see if I could not get the landing gear to work. I eventually was successful. After I discovered that the gears on the cross shaft had to turn the same direction, or the left leg goes up, and the right leg goes down, not the result I was looking for. I tried to upload a video I took, but it was to big to load. Look in the pictures and you will see the landing gear at both raised and lowered hieghts. As far as the reefer goes, the Isuzu 4 cylinders Thermo King used is just an AMT datsun 280ZX 6 cylinder cut down, with a bunch of spare parts thrown at it. Thanks for looking

Found this out by accident too. I was stripping some multi strand wire, looking for air line, and noticed that the outer sheath was very soft, flexible and would not kink. So I grabbed a metal straight edge, and cut it into strips, and there it was. works on K100s too. [

Hi Scott, FANTASTIC weathering. This is, so far the most unique Pete I've seen. I have to admit I don't like rat rods, so I was very biased when I checked your model out, but it is so well done, I can't help but really like it. Awesome job! Mark.

Had to look twice to make sure it wasn't the box art truck, very nice build.

JT, Nice paint work. Really makes an eye-catcher out of it. Sharp.

John, you're right. The norrowed axle does make a difference. Pretty easy fix too. Great start on this project. Can't wait to see more.

I am thinking of painting the Los Angeles stripes, Using Testors enamels and Pearl-Ex powders. I have already mixed a test batch of the black cherry main color an it was awesome.

David, from the reference pics I have been able to find, they are very similar. The differences, around the cab hinges and rear mounts, come from the cab being 4 inches taller than standard 352. Tim Ahlborn is THE Peterbilt expert, and could give a much better account. I am working from pictures found on the internet, and 30 year old memories of 1 I drove, and details get fuzzy after that long. Mark.

Thanks guys. This is the paint job planned for this thing.

Thanks guys for all the kind words. I am pretty sure I will throw this paint job on it when it gets that far. John, Sparkle wheels were so cool. Mark.

Travis, Welcome back to the hobby, and welcome to the forum. Very good choices as to your what to build. Enjoy. Mark.

The CMT White Freightliner photo etch set sent me speeding down this path. I wanted to build something Detroit powered for a change, and what better combination that a Sliver 92 and a WFL cabover. The radiator and grille from CMT. The Stabilaire suspension from Italeri was narrowed about 2 mm to fit the 1/25th frame. Out board exhaust and dual air cleaners were added. The interior was converted to a platform style, and 150 gallon tanks were fashioned. Some srap box exhaust give a preview in the mock up photos. The headlights were lowered, the front axle was moved forward on the springs about 3 mm, the wheel arch reshaped, a front crossmember/radiator support was made, and a corrected visor and mounting bracket were added. Thank you for taking the time to look, Mark.

Hey Buck, I think you will find that these are as infectious as the real ones. Once they are in your blood, there is no hope, your hooked. Great start. Very cool work stands. Mark.

Hey Guys, I thought i would post some of my ongoing projects. First, the 352H is one of my all time favorite truck. I had the privilege of driving one many, many years ago. When i found this picture on the web, I was hooked. The first order of business was fixing the ROG 3408. I removed the molded in filters, filled the block, added a proper oil pan rail, corrected the water pump, timing cover, balancer and pulleys. Scratch built cylinder heads were easier than fixing the blobs in the kit. Two cabs were mated into one. With photo etched door hinges in hand, all the doors, driver access and storage, were removed. Thats when I discovered a oversight in the cab as it is from AMT. The storage doors are molded to low. The bottoms of the main doors and the storage doors should be at different heights. I cut them out, flipped them over, that way the floor of the cab can stay the same front to back. The extra ROG 359 frame from the Can-Do wrecker was smoothed and fitted for the cab. Hydraulic rams and brackets made fro the underside of the cab. It is hard to see in the oridginal picture, but the H had a different shift tower. A set of Jamie's Peterbilt resin wheels, and 150 gallon tanks, and some CMT Photo etch will follow. Thanks for checking out my post, comments and criticisms welcome. Mark.

Mark, great start. With the air foil on the roof, to me anyway, it screams UPS. I may have to make one of the brown clowns wiggle wagons. No offense to any UPS drivers meant. Just to many years of hearing that on the CB.

Chris, if you are asking about the exhaust on the black WS, there is not an actual Y-pipe. All the pictures I found on the internet show the exhaust is sent to stacks from a dual exit muffler under the right frame rail. The head pipe comes off the turbo and drops to just below the frame and enters a round muffler on the long end, and from 2 side outlets, goes to the stacks. In this picture, you can see the passenger side exhaust and muffler. The drivers side is a mirror image, with extra length to get to the muffler on the passenger side frame rail.

Here is a Star that I did a few years back. I swapped the Cat in, scratch built the exhaust, tanks, and boxes.

KJ, looks like you got another outstanding KW there. I think the paint job is super eye-catching and yet as replica stock as you can get. Bare with me here, this is a true compliment. As I personally believe the Alcoa Corp was put on this earth to make spoke wheels Obsolete, your KW put a BIG ding in my beloved ten hole alloys. Your spokes look GREAT. They add such character. Well Done.

Congratulations, rattle cans can be a useful tool, but for the next level paint jobs, nothing compares to an airbrush. Steve hit the nail on the head. PRACTICE. Most important thing. Second, learn about the paint, mixing, drying times, coverage, recoating, enamels, lacquers, acrylics, and so on... Personally, I like to over mix the paint and reducer just slightly, and spray with as low of air pressure i can get away with. Overlap your strokes about half the width, use both vertical and horizontal patterns, and be PATIENT. Let the paint out gas, or flash, that is the solvents have to evaporate out of the last coat before you put the next coat on. On old rule of thumb for this is wait until you can just leave a fingerprint, on someplace you have masked off, without any paint staying on your finger. That should get you started. Find techinques that work for you. You can get results you never will with rattle cans. This Is clear Testors enamel with Pearl-Ex powder mixed in sprayed over white. I unmasked the stripes, and put 3 more coats to get the lighter blue. Good Luck and have fun, Mark

Think nothing of it, JT. It makes th build so much more enjoyable. I am almost ready to post some pics of a 104 BBC I am working on. Watch the on the work bench section and I will show photos of what I am describing. I think you will like this truck, CMT photo etch grille, emblems, etc... Detroit Sliver 92 with corrected valve cover, 220" streched wheelbase. Let me know what you think. Should be there next week or two. Here is a pic of a realigned and shaved WFL. Keep up the good work, Mark

WELL DONE! One of my favorite paint schemes executed so very well. Bravo.

JT, Looks great with the bullrack on! I have built about 15 of these over almost 40 years of glue sniffing, finger cutting fun, and you got the ladders right. The problem with this kit is the front axle is to far to the rear. Put the alignment tab on the axle in front of the forward alignment block on the spring, and that problem is solved. To make the wheelwell correct, you need to remove 3mm of material from the front, measured at the very corner of the cab. The oldest pic i can find on the net is 1969 for the three step ladder, the newest is '71 maybe '72.

Thanks Guys for the kind words. Dragracer, Mike Dunn was one of my favorite drivers. I got to meet him at the Mile High Nationals once, very cool guy. If my memory serves me as well as I hope it does, The JP1 was the last flopper to switch to the high gear only set up and Mike Dunn was the last fuel driver to shift gears in a nitromobile. Thought I read that somewhere, could be wrong though.

SHARP tractor. Great color compination. Well done use of aftermarket parts, well integrated into the build. Wanted to see more of the interior. Just a suggestion, Kenworth mirrors mount to the cab above the door and on the cowl. If you were to remount them, you could show off the interior better. Seeing upgraded dashes is one of my favorite aspects. Fantastic build none the less!