purepmd

Mike, I would like to offer a couple of words of encouragement and advice if I might. I do not claim to be an expert, by any means, but I want to share my results. I use both Alclad and Spas Stixx, another version of Alclad, and have gotten, what I think are very satisfactory results. What I think is the trick, for me anyway, is lots of VERY light coats, and after it has cured overnight, polish with a dry Qtip. I have a Passche VL that has a control to limit the trigger's rearward travel, limiting the amount of material picked up. By setting it so low, you have to watch the surface you are painting to see the SLOW color change. Build the coats very slowly, let it dry, rub it with a Qtip, and this is the result. I have even used S n J polishing powder, finely ground aluminum, in conjunction with Alclad with really good results. The wheels are pieced together Italeri and Revell parts and the tanks, quarter fenders, and visor are kit parts mist-coated until very bright and then polished. It is fairly easy to do, just time consuming. But patience really does pay off. A little practice and anyone can get this look.

Hey Guys, just making my check call for April. Been working on the floor/firewall unit, chassis, and started the resin engine. Getting the front cab mounts and sleeper air ride knocked out is this weekend's plan. will post pics soon. Thanks, Mark.

What Terry said! Now, given these results, I am sorry Inever picked one of these up. Superb results.

Exactly right!

JT hit the nail on the head! Beyond cool.

Michael, this build is simply superb. That little KW turned out beautiful. Outstanding work!

Nice work does not even come close to describing this build. Outstanding.

Thanks for checking this out, guys. There is one thing I forgot. Whether it is resin or styrene, make sure you rough up the area the repair/fill is to attach to. The hills and valleys formed buy sand scratches make the Union of the different materials stronger. Good luck, Mark.

Thanks Guys, I appreciate your interest greatly. For anyone interested, I posted a brief summary of my experience so far with the CA and dryer sheet fiberglass, in the Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials section. Maybe it will help anyone wanting to try it, save a few blisters and patches of skin. It does heat up enough to pull a blister. Check it out, if you like.

I stumbled across this idea while reshaping a very poorly cast resin piece for the Big Rig Build Off. The closer to the shape i wanted, the bigger the void became, and the more obvious it became that it needed drastic repair. A while ago, I had noticed, that the Fabric Softener sheets that go in the dryer, looked a lot like the fiberglass matting used with catalyzed resin to repair 'glass auto bodies, 'glass tubs and showers, etc... only made out of much finer fiber strands. As luck would have it, the shirt I was wearing that day, had a sheet get inside of it in the dryer. I am sitting at my work bench, wondering why my sleeve felt funny, and when I found the sheet and pulled it from my sleeve, Eureka, as they say. Once the softener itself is released from the sheet, the sheet becomes very soft, pliable, and free from the softener residue, (the CA glue does not bond well with the softener in place). It is, in fact, so soft, it is hard to cut with a scissors. I lay it out on a self healing cutting board, the anti-slip surface helps hold it in place, and cut it with a #11 blade. You can tear it, but that lease lots of stray fibers to deal with. Cut as many of the correct size and shape pieces as you will need to build the layers to the desired thickness. My experience so far, is that 1 layer equals .020 sheet styrene, as a comparable thickness. Remember, though, you will sand some of this away during the finishing process. Always and to much in order to take it down to where you need it. Besides, the more strands worked in, the stronger the set-up matting is. For most body repairs or customizing, I would recommend 3 layers, but you can adjust as needed. While Super Glue Gel can work, the thinnest hobby CA works the best. It saturates the sheet very quickly, and has the least amount of trapped air. Air bubbles should be avoided as much as possible. Not only do they weaken the finished product, but have to be filled if you sand into one while finishing. Be careful to not over saturate the matting, as being the thin CA, it runs EVERYWHERE, FAST. If you get a little to much glue in the first layers, add another. That helps build layers but control the CA. I use tooth picks or Popsicle sticks to poke and prod the matting, not only to set the final placement, but to help with the saturation and air removal. After just a little practice, you will see there is sort of an ideal level of CA for the sheet to stay workable as well as set quickly. That brings me to the hardening of the sheet. With the increase of surface area, the fiber strands in the sheet, the CA will set fairly quickly, even with a relatively high volume. When it does set, at the beginning, you notice no real temperature change, but as the CA sets, it does build heat. With even a relatively small, say. a dime to nickel sized area, this heat will get to the "blistered skin" level in an heartbeat. Make sure you skin is clear of the matting when it sets. I have tried using accelerators in this process, and can't really recommend them. They can help, in certain, tough to hold the shape, type situations, BUT, they can over heat the CA and matting and make it boil to a consistency of Silly String. Then you start over. USE ACCELERATOR VERY SPARINGLY! When it comes time to finish the surface of the, now hardened sheet, it sands very much like resin and matting in full scale. It is hard, which degrades you sandpaper faster than the plastic will, and heavier, grittier paper leaves deeper scratches. It also has the trait of being a little fuzzy, like real 'glass. Always plan on a really good layer of primer after shaping. Although I have not tried it, I am fully convinced, you could build this into a part of it own, able to withstand more stress than plastic, and easier to form than metal, as well as having the right mold, not too complex, you could use it to cast parts. You may not us it often, but it is a nice tool to have should the need arise. Thanks for checking this out, have fun!

Just adding the monthly post. I want to thank all of you who have added the words of support, as well as those of you who have checked out the posts. I will have some new pictures shortly. I have been working on the firewall and floor pan. Thanks, again, Mark.

KJ, another home run! I really like your builds. They have really made me appreciate type of trucks you like to replicate. They have an air of toughness no chromed out Beauty Queen can ever bring to the table. I am even considering a build along these lines, spoke drive wheels and all. Never thought That would happen, but your work is that influential. Outstanding work.

Clayton hit the nail on the head. It just has "the look". Very cool little custom.

Hey Gino, the choice of the needle nose is fantastic, there is something so cool about any Pete with a narrow grill. Really liking the seriously custom mods you are working into this build. Looking forward to seeing how this shakes out. Good job.

James, thanks for sharing this outstanding rescue. The closer you look, the better it gets. Superb work.

I have said it before, and I will say it again here, I really like it when imagination and skill come together. Well done Pat.

JT, I know, sounds crazy, but it works just like full scale fiberglass mat and resin, just sets up a lot faster. Very strong too. I am also testing the sheets with paint, as a replica of unfinished 'glass for the underside of W900 and other 'glass hoods. Will post updates on that on this hood.

Hey Clayton, First, I really am looking forward to seeing how you work over a C.O.E. Here is a little wheelbase tease. Some times the things that give you the most trouble, give you the most satisfaction overcoming those difficulties. No matter what, persevere.

In it's own way, this KW is as sharp as your avatar WFL, both just first rate eye candy. Still crazy about the Green 'Shaker.

Hey Ken, I LOVE your use of Earth Tones. or Neutrals, as you said. They certainly give your builds a very distinctive style. Combine that with outstanding build quality, and you always impress. I'll have to check with Clayton, but I do not think there are any extra points for first done. I wish I could have this quality at even half the pace. WELL DONE.

While my tastes are permanently rooted in the '70s and early '80s, as far as interesting subjects, this little bulldog is just so superb, you cannot ignore it. Just beautiful. Very impressive work. Thank you for sharing this marvelous little Mack.

Hey Rob, looking really good so far. Really like the way this is going. Typically, the rear of the plate would be positioned so that the fifth wheel, in the rear most position, would be just slightly behind the midpoint between the rear axles. When in the forward most position, it would be almost directly over the front drive axle. Hope this helps. Mark.

Hey guys, First, thanks for all the kind words. They are greatly appreciated. Looking at some of the updates, I can't help think this is going to a great event for us on the dark side. Here are some pics of the cab / sleeper almost roughed in. I still have the back corners of the roof to build, then sand, sand, and sand it again. I hope the next update will have some more sub assemblies, like the frame, engine, or interior platform. This is a mix of resin and plastic. Not mention a ton of CA glue. Almost forgot, the semi-transparent areas are the super glue and used dryer sheets combination. Sort of a scale fiberglass. It is really strong, but will probably need a little putty to make it perfect. It is very hard, but not the easiest to sand smooth. It was the easiest way to fill the places I sanded through the resin. thanks for checking it out.

Matt, this build is going to be very cool! As much as I like the TV truck, a custom version is just awesome.

Hey Clayton, whatever you decide, it is going to be a fine looking build. Can't wait to see the progression.