Quick GMC

The bottom where the acrylic overhangs the base is open. It's enough to get some airflow. It's not 100% sealed but it's below the fan line so any dust that gets sucked in from that point should go right down into the filter before it reaches the model

I'm confused, is the website automatically calculating the shipping, o is it a person? On my site (unrelated to the hobby), we had entered some weights wrong on some light items. While it was correct for a single unit, it added up to a huge number when people ordered multiples. The system doesn't account for pro-rating the weight and so something that should be .3lbs each x10= 3lbs, ended up being 30lbs. It overcharged by a lot. we've since fixed it, but the system is too smart for itself, so all my orders are manually double checked before charging credit cards, but it is frustrating to lose sales to something so easy to overlook.

It's scrap. If people want to get offended by that word, that's their problem. Scrap doesn't necessarily mean garbage, or something you throw away. if you want to call it something else, fine, but being bothered by someone using a universally known term is just silly. We fabricate granite and stone tops. We use the cutouts from sinks and tubs, and we use the leftover bits for other projects. It's scrap. It's an undesirable term, people think we have "scrap" laying around that we are going to throw away, or that it has somehow lost it's value because it's smaller than it used to be. Remnants, scrap, extra (that one's hilarious), or whatever it may be.

Here is the video of the Jeep owner. Apparently, this was at a Red Robin somewhere in New Jersey

It could be. I have seen shavings from a pencil being used, but not as good of results as this stuff. There has been speculation as to what it actually is.

That's the main problem. Tamiya makes really dense pointy q tips that definitely help, but the recessed areas would be a problem. However I don't mind because those areas would have a shadow ona real car and it adds a little depth

Or anything else. IE is terrible compared to Firefox and chrome. However I find that Bing is significantly better for image searches than google.

I have it, I mentioned it earlier in the thread. You need to prep just like alclad. Ultra smooth and ultra glossy base. You can use any color as a base, but the base color will impact the final finish. Over a white plastic spoon is the most accurate. Black base is nice, but darker. Blue base is nice too for exhaust detailing. I haven't used it a lot yet. I got it from HLJ. One thing to keep on mind is that it's essentially lead dust. If you have respiratory issues then you need to take it into account. It comes with gloves and a mask. It's messy. VERY MESSY. It can be better than alclad, but the prep is absolutely crucial.

The forum is on the internet, not the computer. Try another browser as suggested. Firefox or Google Chrome would be good ones.

I have the 68 Dart Hemi. Is there any reason why the Mr. Norm's photo etch kit wouldn't work, or am I missing something? I am not that familiar with Mopars or what the subtle differences might be.

I did this with Duplicolor engine enamel, over Tamiya primer http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73676&hl=%2Bboss+%2B429

That's incredible looking. It really all comes down to what you're more comfortable with, and what you feel is best for you.

No, you don't. You're off by 17-27 coats. Where did you even get the idea you need to spray that much? It's beyond absurd. 1 coat primer, 2 coats black base, 1-3 coats alclad. That's 6 total. They can all be done in the same day and you can move on with your model. I wanted to try this, but completely forgot. Have you found it makes a difference?

Now we wait for the YouTube unboxing videos and comparisons.

There is a ton of misinformation in this thread, some of it from people who have clearly never used it. I never use kit chrome. While I don't always get the desired result with Alclad, it is absolutely possible to get a real chrome effect. 1. Should you buff it? YES, VERY LIGHTLY WITH A TISSUE 2. Can it give you an actual chrome effect? YES 3. Does it only work on small parts? NO 4. Should you only spray with 12-15 PSI? NOT NECESSARILY. YOU CAN EXPERIMENT AND SEE WHAT WORKS. I HAVE HAD SUCCESS WITH 8-25 PSI 5. Do you need 20-30 coats of Alclad? INSANITY. 2-4 IS PLENTY. THE LESS YOU CAN USE TO GET THE FULL COLOR, THE BETTER. THE MORE YOU USE, THE LESS SHINE YOU'LL GET This is all based on what I have actually accomplished. I am a terrible painter. If I can do it, anyone on here can. Of course re-chroming parts gives you actual chrome, but if you're in a pinch, this is a solution. The biggest thing I use Alclad for, is a starting point for weathering. I know have some Kosutte Ginsan I will be playing with. it does show the base color through a little. I got the best "chrome" results over a bare plastic white spoon. Gloss black works well, but it darkens it a bit.

The two biggest factors for Alclad: 1. Spray at a 45 degree angle across the surface. 2. When it's dry/cured, LIGHTLY buff it with a Kleenex. There is a dry dust that settles when you spray it just right, like minute particle of paint that dries as it hits the surface. Buff this off with a tissue and it will pop a bit more without hurting the finish. But as Paul said, the base is critical. It doesn't have to be black, but it has to be smooth and glossy. PSI is relative, I've sprayed at 10 PSI and 25 PSI and had very similar results. This is Alclad Black Base over Tamiya gray primer. This is Alclad Chrome over the black base.

Wow. I don't usually care for silver but it shows off the lines very well. This looks awesome

Was that worth it? Being a jerk to a new guy on the forum? He could have ended being a contributing member, but I doubt he'll be back. How are you pointing out his grammatical error when you used two unnecessary semi-colons in your sentence? Are you freaking kidding? I just got a brain tumor from reading that.

This is awesome.

My view changes on a daily bases, but here are some shots of our shop, and a recently completed job. Engineered stone shower with custom shampoo box, and kitchen sink made by hand from engineered stone. It's like manufacture granite, but it's made with crushed quartz aggregate and epoxy and formed into a slab. 3/4" thick

Tamiya has done a bunch on clear. The CLK GTR, Toyota GTONE, etc

Looks good to me. I think I will get one of these to use as practice for painting.

this is what ended up happening. They just opened the road today, but there is still a month's worth of cleanup. The mud was up to 8 feet in some areas around my shop DAY 1 DAY 1 9 HOURS AFTER IT STOPPED RAINING. The 4x4 was trying to help the Mini Cooper (who is an idiot), he broke a yoke and ended up with only FWD. The truck in the back was towing an equipment trailer and for whatever reason tried to cross. Stupid people everywhere. So the next day, in the same spot, this guy drives in NOW HERE COMES THE BEST PART. WHILE THE BLACK SUV IS STILL IN THERE, THESE FREAKING GENIUSES DECIDE TO DRIVE IN. THE BLACK SUV IS RIGHT BEHIND THEM there used to be a road there somewhere

This is kind of what I will be going with when I build my cobra

I always used Faskolor on my bodies. It's acrylic for lexan, for an airbrush. Seal it afterwards and it holds up great.