yellowsportwagon

Getting closer

Be careful with museum cars. Lots of them are fakes and not necessarily correctly done.

I hate to say this but get yourself on Facebook and join some of the vintage nascar groups. Tons and tons of killer pictures and info. And some super knowledgeable guys too!!

Find a picture of Pete’s Superbird from Daytona and look how different the chin spoiler is.

Does anyone make a 71 conversion kit for the GSX kit?

This car was tun in three races in 1980. Long story short it’s a Salvinos Cutlass with a Monte Carlo roof. On an AMT TBird chassis.

I’m a glutton for punishment. I usually have a minimum of five going at once. So every other month or so I get a batch finished. Some I start and put aside for months cause something I’d rather do comes along. I don’t know what’s wrong with me.???

Bud Moore used Zolotone a lot. Trans am and NASCAR cars. I do it by spraying the part grey. Then white black and maybe light turquoise misted on from about 2 feet away. If you get too much of those colors on you can come back and mist some grey on.

Primed ,painted ,decaled and cleared

My kid got me this for Christmas so I better add it to my 1/2 finished projects list. Decided to bulge the fenders and qtrs. Out and add some missing character lines to the thing.

I just saw this topic and thought I’d add my 2 cents. I think Revell got the entire Monte roof wrong. And for that matter so did Salvinos on their race car Monte. I think they copied the Revell roof to some extent. Not only does The back window need to lay forward the frt window need to lay back. And the shape is way wrong. Any way I put the back of a Salvinos Monte roof on one of their Cutlass kits to make a formal roof Century. You can see how much better the Cutlass windshield looks on my build as compared to the Monte Carlo build. I realize this is a Salvinos Monte but the roofs are almost identical.

I always keep 5-10 TBird kits in stock. I’ve thrown out probably 40 of those bodies

I’ve done it this way too. Looks real good but is a lot more work.

No the chassis is completely wrong. And it’s a pain to get it to look right. The best chassis for this body is the one from an AMT 90s TBird. It needs to be stretched about 1/16 inch in the wheelbase. The rear wheelhouses need to be sanded to fit this body too. And the top of the roll cage needs to be rebuilt to fit this roofline. It’s pretty easy to do. This chassis is close to a 70s Banjo chassis. I use it under most all of my 70s builds. Most GM and Ford cars in that era used a Banjo chassis. Here’s how it looks. Some show mods to the chassis. Car will sit waaaaay better with this chassis.

Those Talladega cages fit perfectly in a 68-70 B Body Mopar.

That’s a real nice build. Looks like you thinned the rollbars a lot

I heard pretty soon.

One thing I’ll give the Polar Lights kits. They got the stance right. On the Chargers and the Talladegas

Decals done and cleared. Polish is next.

That was my original plan. Then I saw the Buddy Baker car and said That’s a better looking car. I’m not a fan of the yellow and blue.

It is an automotive pinstripe I cut down to under 1/32 inch. I have a slitter made to do this.

Getting there.

I use Sikkens brand paint. Waterborne base 2k clear