vincen47

Fantastic, grimy engine and great details!

No, that's the way it is. Like Robert stated earlier, it is my only real complaint too. The rear wheels are one piece (though Michael said he has made them separate before, but for more $) and I noticed it more when I put the XDY's on them, as they have less sidewall buldge than the Italeri tires. I'm overlooking it because the overall effect is so pleasing, and they will be mostly covered by a motorhome box. Now, if I was using them on a tractor, especially with no trailer, it might bother me more. But, with a nice set of real metal full rear fenders, rear tail light bar and mudflaps...yeah your large car would be pure class, and those wheels will be perfect... I considered the accurate 1/24 resin wheels from Ben, but I really wanted the real aluminum ones, and it seems MCA is the only choice available at this time and like I said before, the overall effect is really nice.

Robert - Yes, the stud itself fits a bit loose in the hole, but I used a tiny bit of CA on the stud to secure it. The super glue seems to work well, and it is simple and clean. But it is tedious, even with tweezers. I may use a stronger metal epoxy in the future. Though they haven't popped off yet, I don't want them popping off and having to replace them (though this would be a realistic operation like the full size nut covers that go missing all the time!). Originally, I planned to use Scale Hardware's real threaded acorn nuts on the supplied bolts, but they still don't have the nickel plated ones available in 1.2mm. The RB Motion ones look great anyway and are aluminum.

Some of the best, if not the best scratchbuilding I've seen in a diorama.

No problem. And yes, I'm working on a Series 60 right now, I'll post about it soon. I've been using your work as a reference and your awesome decals.

There's a prototype for everything in the model world. Here's a cool stretch I found while camping this summer...

I have a set of MCA US Style Alcoas. They come with real nuts and bolts, which are nice, but I customized them with .075 acorn nuts (#1455) from RB Motion. They are shown here with Michelin XDY3 drive tires from Ben Wicker's Class A Resin. You may use regular Italeri tires too, as I have done with the steer tires. A set of Michelin steer tires sure would be nice....right Ben?

This one. Plain and simple, a 1975-78 Ford LTD wagon. Country Squire or standard.

I hope they don't use the Ram name. It is not worthy of it. But, I think there is a market for it, even if it is just a small crossover that is missing the rear part of the roof.

I would recommend RB Motion, I ordered 3 sets of the 1.90mm aluminum acorn nuts and they look good on the MCA real aluminum Alcoas. Fast Service. I'd post a pic, but I'm camping (but I still make time for the forum, of course). They have a non-threaded stem, easy to install.

Anyone know how long Revell plans to keep this going?

Wonderful. You are the man.

I assume you mean the 379 legacy vs. the original 379, not the 359. The Legacy 379's were a special edition, the last 1000 379 trucks built in 2007 before the 389 replaced the model. They had special branding, Legacy numbers like 456/1000, and other neat features, making sort of a collectors edition of the 379. Not sure of any major spotting differences that you could recognize from a distance, like the 379X's chrome front fenders. The "X" was another special edition done a few years prior, like 2004/05. It had several factory cosmetic upgrades that were popular as aftermarket items for owner-operators.

I've just started looking for a set to fit a circa 1976 Ford one ton. Along with the modern set, there is a need for older wheels. I see Danny has a new 16" dually??? along with the 17" No pic on the website yet, but maybe....

Very nice work. Could you tell us about the change to square headlights? I've always been curious about updating Aerodynes to the K100E look.

What a fine job of Michigan's finest. I'll have to admit, I've been stopped by a cruiser like that a couple, well, a few times...

Great build, I'll have to look up the original thread.

True. Tim's simple conversion technique, using only the 378 kit will give you a 379-119. However, the 378 grill is not quite tall enough for a true scale 379-119" or 379-127". It may not be very noticable, but you will have a slightly squashed 379. I ordered a Bill Drennen resin long hood conversion kit from P&P last fall. It took several months to arrive and afterwards the 379 wasn't on the P&P website anymore. So, not sure about it's current availablity. It is a very nice kit and yes, the resin grill surround is taller than the stock 378 Italeri grill. The conversion instructions ask to lenghthen the frame rails by 1/4". Also, the driveshaft, and lower horizontal exhaust tubing needs another 1/4". Lastly, the hood hinges need to be modified to accept the resin hood and grill. Otherwise, the stock 378 components are used, unchanged. I haven't started the build yet, but I'm planning it for late summer.

This is from another thread, and we have to give Aaronw credit: AMT American LaFrance Pumper/Ladder/Aerochief - Detroit Diesel 8V71T AMT Autocar - Cummins NTC250 AMT Bandag Bandit - Detroit Diesel 12V71T AMT Diamond Reo - Cummins NTD350 AMT Ford C series - Ford SD (401, 477 or 534) AMT Ford Louisville - Caterpiller 3208 (or the 1160, very similar motors, not positive which) AMT Freightliner SD/DD - Cummins NTC250 AMT GMC General / Chevrolet Bison - Detroit Diesel 8V92 AMT GMC Astro / Chevrolet Titan - Detroit Diesel 8V71 (old kits optional turbine) AMT International F-4270 Transtar - Cummins V-903 AMT International Payhauler - Detroit Diesel 16V71 AMT International Paystar - IH V-800 AMT International F2476 - IH V-800 AMT International F2575 - IH V-800 AMT International 4300 - IH V-800 AMT Kenworth Aerodyne - Detroit Diesel 8V92T AMT KenworthT-600 - Cummins NTA370 AMT Mack Cruiseliner - Mack ENDT676 AMT Mack DM-800 - Mack ENDT865 AMT Mack RS-685 - Mack ENDT675 AMT Volvo N-10 - Volvo F-10 AMT Volvo F-12 Globetrotter - Volvo F-12 AMT White Roadboss - Cummins NTD350 AMT White Western Star - Cummins NTD350 Italeri / Revell of Germany Ford Aeromax 120 - Cummins N14 Italeri Peterbilt 377 - Detroit Diesel Series 60 Monogram Peterbilt 359 - Caterpiller 3406 The N14 above is not an accurate representation, but better resin ones are available. Overall, not many choices for a factory equipped Pete 378, and a V8 wasn't available in a 378, but as a custom truck, anything goes. Hope this helps, and I bet others can add to the above list.

Nice factory scheme, great job!

With most real trucks having separate types of tires for the steer axle and drives, and most kits not, I'm suprised it isn't a bigger issue of complaint amongst big rig modelers. I recently ordered a couple sets of drives from Ben Wicker @ Class A Resin. Anyone else usually put aftermarket tires on to fix this problem? Or, do most people not mind? Years ago, before I just got back into the hobby (in the past year), I didn't even notice the difference.

Not trying to knock Freightliner, but it just seems to be something that doesn't hold up on these particular models and brand of truck. Plus, the companies running these old fleet trucks today don't care to replace them. It doesn't benefit them economically. But, that's why I really appreciate the pride most O/O's (and fleets) take in their truck's appearance.

I just think these big Ford boats are awesome. My favorite is the 78 country squire wagon like the one above - my dream kit. There is one on the Revell "Share Your Dream" idea site. It has quite a few votes already.

Ever notice how often Freightliner FLD120's, Classic Xl's, etc, are missing grill bars? If I ever model a well used Freightshaker, I'm going to have to model this: It is such a common thing, I nearly chuckle every time I see it.

Excellent kit. The resin is top notch quality. I picked one up a little while back, it is on my "To build" list.