misterNNL

Thanks casey!That did the trick and the album is available for viewing.

Thanks for the kind words guys!If it appears that I jump from one part of the build to another,it's because I do.Models like this require a lot of research and planning for me so while I am working on how to proceed with one problem or another I switch over and work on another part of it.Overcomplicationitis is a terrible thing.The only known cure is to keep building I think.

Art,I need to build a rear buggy style spring for a model TT Ford wrecker I have underway on my bench.Since the worm gear drive rear end is considerably taller than the standard T rear end I need to build one with a double curve to nestle into the frame rear cross member and clear the worm drive housing.Have you ever built that type and do you have any tutorial photos of the process?Thanks.....Tom

Thanks to someone a lot more tech savy than myself the link should work now.Sorry for the confusion.http://public.fotki.com/misterNNL/1925-ford-model-tt-/

http://public.fotki.com/misterNNL/1925-ford-model-tt-/

i am trying to post a link to my latest"on the workbench"project,a 1/25th scale 1925 Ford model TT wrecker.The link is in the topic title.

I am starting a new topic today in the on my work bench forum.I am building a 1/25th scale 1925 Model TT wooden cab wrecker truck with a circa 1915 Weaver Auto Crane 3 ton hand crank boom assembly.Here is the link. http://public.fotki.com/misternnk.1925-ford-model-tt

Great job!Where did the 4 door body come from?

The ones I personally find the most interesting are the art deco coupe and the swoopy roadster the racing greyhounds are chasing. What do you do for a living that allows for the tremendous amount of time it must take to plan/engineer and build this many complicated projects?THanks for all of the information you are willing to share.

Great news!Please let me which ones are available and how much they are.

Do have any of the extra vacuum formed bodies you made available for sale?There seems to be quite a stack of some of them.Please advise.

Nice subject for the slot drags instead of mostly funny cars and gassers.I like the choice of body color as well.It contrasts nicely with the rusty weathering effects.Thanks for sharing with everyone.Great job!

Are there any in-process photos available of the art deco vacuum formed body cars?If so would you consider posting them please.Thanks from some interested builders!

I have never seen any of your work until today.Thanks for posting these very impressive photos.Your range of knowledge is extremely varied and details are so well done.You must have done a ton of research to complete that many models so expertly.There is also a lot of such well done complicated paint.Over what approximate span of time were these built? You should be very happy with what you've been able to accomplish.Extremely impressive!! Have you ever thouight about selling any of the vacuum formed art deco bodies?I would certainly be very interested mysef!

Great period custom.Super smooth paint and flawless body work.Also very well photographed.Thanks for sharing your work !!

Great job!Reminds me of the kind of work done by the Alexander Brothers custom shop.The paint is right on the money,and the body work seems very straight and well done.Thanks for sharing with us!!

Great rat rod!I love the metal finish you were able to achieve on the body as well.A real one would require some protective gear to be worn by the driver and passengers on most any road surface with that screen floor!Thanks for sharing your work with the rest of us.I'm sure some features you have included will insprire a lot of builders to think outside the box and be creative!

Nice model T build bruce.There were literally thousands of light commercial vehicles based on the running chassis types avail through Ford dealers at that time for a few hundred dollars.Great that you were able to tie your wife's family history into it as well.Thanks for sharing this with us and for Painting everything black!

Nice job and very original theme as well.I particularly like the layering of your different materials such as exposed brick behind broken away stucco and the pot holes in the street.Colors are right on the money.Thanks for sharing with us! Sometimes not having a big budget to use ready made detail parts is what drives to get creative and make our own.

In answer to the question about the Ford name not being on these any where,it really is a licenseing issue at this point. To answer (in my humble opinion)the question about do any of us actually build the kits we buy,most kits are raw material.Unless you are either a kit collector or a box stock only builder most kits are intended as raw material to be built as the builder sees fit.If they were not kit would only include parts for dead stock showroom versions. That question reminds me of a button I have that states"anyone can collect old kits,but it takes a real man to cut one up".Depends on your personal preference and point of view.

This is developing very nicely!Great corners and everything looking symetrical.Are you working from photos or memory?Be sure to post your progress photos for the rest of us to enjoy! Just a hint,For more contrast in your photos hang a dark colored bed sheet on the wall behind it.

If you would like a ruler that has 1/25 th scale right on it I have one and will gladly send you a photo copy of it by mail if you send me a PM.

Having built a couple of structures from plywood I suggest using that for strength.Be very sure that the pieces you select are not warped to start with.I suggest 1/4" plywood for exterior walls.I but craft grade plywood from a source such as Hobby Lobby sonce it has no knots and is smooth on both sides.Also be sure to double check all of your walls sure they are the same size before securing them togeather.By that I mean be sure the north and south walls are exactly the same,then the east and west walls as well.That will help with squareness.If you don't already have one buy a small 90 degree angle square to double check wall corners before attaching them togeather. I followed a suggestion from a friend and made a mocked-up sample of my building from corrugated cardboard before I ever cut a single piece of plywood.That really did help me keep from making some mistakes. I also suggest fastening togeather your walls at the corners with very small nails instead of relying on glue.I learned a neat trick in wood working shop in high school(over 50 years ago!) that really does work.That is to pre-drill your nail holes by cutting the head off of one of the nails you are going to use and use that as your drill bit.1/4"wood is pretty thin and pre-drilling can really help prevent split wood corners that then need to be repaired. Foam bord makes for excellent brick and block wall surfaces.Be sure to take the paper off of both sides of it as it will warp if you don't.Brush on rubber cement adheres foam board very well.Just follow the instructions on the container. Good luck with your garage projet.Be sure to post photos here so we can follow along.

Andy,I have answered my own questions.I just looked at your Model martin site and it appears I have somehow ended up with a center door T body only.I probably got it in a trade somehow.I will have to order the complete kits in order to build complete stock model T's for my display.Sorry for wasting your time.

Andy,I am rounding third and headed for home with my 1925 Indian gas station diorama project and am planning on adding a couple stock built Ford model T's when I display it.One will probably be the 1915 center door sedan I got from you several years ago and I have a couple questions.Have you ever built this as a stock model?If so what did you use as an interior?I am planning on using the King T flat top fender unit as a starting point and probably modifying the AMT 1925 Model T frame,engine and wheels. Any opinion from you or those viewing this thread as to hat you would use?Thanks for any opinions or suggestions! Tom Woodruff