LeadFred

The chassis was cut off where the rear wheel housing starts, and also the cardan tunnel has to be removed because it is just too small. Looking for the new transmission tunnel, I see a ballpoint pen in plastic that appear to have the correct dimensions. Said and done I saw the pen and trim it to fit and put together the two floor halves so the hole floor still continues to fit in the body, then I make a frame to hold the rear end,and then the wheel tubs. This construction section is quite tricky to get to, because if there will not be a good fit on the chassis "in" the body, it will be difficult to get the car good from all angles, and does the body spanning over the chassis, it will becomes quite impossible to get the doors to fit back into the body. I did make a lot of errors along the way,but the best thing about that is that you learn a lot,and When you have dealed with your errors, everything falls into place. Here you can see the plastic part made out of a ballpoint pen. Also you can see the upper side of the dash, and that was a very imported reference part,because the chassi needed a fixed point when i test fit chassi unit into the body. The chassi need to be in the same height every time you testfit, I need all the time to make fixed reference points for all proportions,and in a later stage of the build it is imported that everything has a predetermind position,if not, you probebly Dont know how the stance Will be.this picture shows the two floor pans and the firewall from the kit without the tunnel.here you can see the silicone jig holds the chassie and the rear wheels in place,not assembled with each other, just mocked up, and the body lifted from the chassis.The engine is Futurattraction´s 351 clevland/pro stock engine. I´ll think this engine is a very god choice for this. Here we can see that i have cut off the old front frame,but still i can place the chassi into my silicone putty jig,and the front of the body can also be put into the jig in the same place as you have seen before.The marking for the front tires are ready to use if you need to mock up them for measuring. The new front tube chassi can now be made and in the same stage i can control the engine height,so it does´nt sit to high and of course not to low.another angle.Here you see the extra body that also fit into the same jig. and as you see,it is very thin a-pillars and very fragile to work on a body like this one,so a extra body is a very good choice to testfit with and when you get close to your fit you can check with the cut body,this solution saved me alot of broken a-pilars etc. of the original kit parts i have used so far......the most parts,are Modified to fit. Next update i will get on to the rear end......... Fred.

Hi, Thanks for comments, I have also this picture that shows the body with the chassie and i have mocked up with the wheels in jig made of silicone putty. And the great thing about silicone putty is that you cut of areas that dont want the putty in. so this jig only holds the body, frame and wheels to see how you want the stance. it helps when you want to measure parts and proportions. it was in this stage of the build i discovered that the engine was too much high in the frame front. and to get it right i have to make a new tube front with a slight angle on the frame legs, then the engine would fit properly.Next two picture´s show the frame legs that i had to cut off to another angle,but it did not work well,so a new tube frame was the solution. (And John C, i have already cut off the front of the body....sorry. But ...i have another kit of the same car that i can fit the chassie to. the cut body is so fragile so it is better to have a extra body that is untouched to take measure on. but the pictures show the kits original frame that did´nt work well for a big engine.if you wonder what front wheels i have used in the mock-up,it´s from the Revell Jungle Jim Vega funny car. i will use the tires on this build but not the rims, it´s just for the mock-up. soon i will give you pictures of the new tube front frame and some engine mock-up. Fred.

Hi, It´s been a long time since i´ve post some builds here on the forum, so it is really fun to share some pictures of this build and tell you what i have done. I wanted to build a very small car with so much drag parts i could put in to this little body,and this is how it started. I posted for a long time ago the first pictures of this build in the workbench column but i closed that tag,just because i realized that it would fit in better in the dragracing column. In the beginning of this build i started to cut out doors and all body panels that i wanted to view the details for the spectator to. When i had did that….????? i start to wonder if i really could do it as the plan i had in my head. after cutting the hole body in pieces the project went back in the modelkit box for a year. But the following year, I could not quite let go of the thought of my little Datsun. When the time is getting ripe and I had built the building in my head over and over again as the box went up again and the building began to take off. This is the first pictures of ”Sweet pain” The name is well an explanation of what I thought the building was. I took, for example, assume that Revell kit was symmetrical. and it caused problems, including the big wheeltubs,built symmetrically from the start, but did not sit symmetrically in the body when it was mounted. it meant I had to change a lot to get into a chassis that has the proportions that I wanted them. It is not the best picture,but the rear piece that have the taillights moulded in white plastic,I have replaced with my own cast in clear plastic that I have masked the rear lights and then primed the body panel to get a better sense of realism, The kit's rear panel look more like a toy. I have not yet cut off the front. I probably forgot to take a picture of the back panel when it was completely unassembled and unpainted, but this picture shows the original panel to the left and my copy of clear plastic assembled and primed. the tape is on the back just for it not to get paint dust on the inside of the rear lamp glass. Here you can see the mounting holes for the original rearbumper, as you can see, it is not very symmetrical, and then you can understand that maybe it came unexpected problems later. This is the first try of my chassie,but the engine did´nt fit correct with the headers mocked-up, so i had to change the front frame next. this is the frame from the kits chassie,but it was to small for a 351 cleveland V8 pro stock engine ,just wanna show you what problems i had before i change the front. Comments are welcome and more to come.... Fred.

Does anyone know anything about Arrowhead aluminum Company? I have done a order in november 2015 and the order is paid,but i have not received anything yet. also tried to e-mail them 3 times but no answer. IThe only confirmation about my order i have is the receipt from paypal. Are they still in buisness, or do they have a vacation. wonder why they does´nt answer my e-mails? Fred

Front tires that i Think should work on this Cortina is the tires that comes with the new revell Vega Funny car (Jungle Jim) I have used these front tires on a Datsun 510 drag car build. 1/25 But the Cortina is 1/24 scale? i´ll think. Mabye the tires looks to Small on this body? check it. The tires in the Vega FC kit are no brand on it,so decals are needed if you want the good year logo. Fred

Ok,thank you guy's for you answers.I'm still confused about what Numbers a should use at My windows. If not the build are correct with the brand of engine and car,i Will not change anything in this case because i have Done so much already on the build. I decided to do the car as it was my own car there are Some decals on the car that are my nickname on the fenders. So it is just fiction! anyway, it is a pure drag car, and a want to have the Numbers in the Windows just because the build lock more like a competition car. The hole " feeling" of the build get's better with the Numbers. I Will start a New topic here in the dragracing column about the build with pictures When i have "controle" of My build i Will start the topic. And i Dont have much to Do to reach that Point. The Numbers i Will put on the Windows Will be Some related stuff to the Pro stock class i think. (what's if ) if you know what i mean. Before i start the topic, and it Will not be today, i can tell you that i have scratchbuilt so Many things on this little car, i have a old topic in the workbench column that shows the build in the beginning, the name of the topic is: Datsun 510 Pro Stock project (Doge Colt) if you want to search in the column for that topic you can see the first pictures i shot When i got this idea. Soon i will post more as this build are getting closer to the end. BUT, the New topic Will be in the dragracing column,i should have post it here, Dont know why it was post in " workbench" column. Thank you guy's Fred.

Hi, I'm building a seventie's PRO stock " Datsun 510" with A 351 Cleveland engine. But the car is not a real car from the past. it just has the style of that period. I know that the Numbers on the Windows show some info about the class or something like that. what Numbers do i use on My Windows? What does it mean? Fred

Hello, what Time period will match the revell Auto transport trailer.? Fred

Hi Scott, The Fairmont is so great, your pictures are so inspiring. When i Look at them i just wanna get on with my own builds. Thanks Scott.

Hi, Can anyone tell me how many different castings it is made of the AMT Ford pinto and also the MPC Pinto? Does Any resin or photo-etch maker Do Any up-dated parts or emblems to this little cool car I know that AMT have Done 71,72,73,74,75,76,77, MPC, 74,75,76,78, 80. And also two wagons,year? Is this the complete line of pinto kits? Or have i missed Any kit? If you have Any Pinto builds, i would love to see them. Any information you have about these kits, please drop a line here. Fred

Hi, I wish that somebody can help me with Some reference photos or explaining/ or drawings of the electricity that are placed in a Pro Stock drag car. It is often mounted on a plate under the dash or the floor. How it is wired and also tip's of where i could find these detail to buy. Pictures of the boxes or bottles are welcome. If no aftermarket is available i have to scratch the parts. I have opened the Doors for Some of My drag car builds and i think it is important to show Some detail there.

Wonderful work.! Every part is so Clean, It is a work of art, I must ask you a funny question, when you are done with a build at this level,that is the highest level i can Think of! The next model you start building,is that just a "box stock" or something a Little more easy to build.?or do you get to Another super detailed build right away.? Myself,when i have build something super detailed at my level, (way lower than yours) i need to relax with a easy build. Thanks for the inspiration, i love this.

Hi , Can anyone tell me if it is the same frames and engines in the modern funny cars from revell? If you go back 20 years,alots of funny cars have been realesed from revell. Do they use the same tool for all or does Any kit have Other parts? The New mongoose 57 chevy for example,is that the same chassie as the Other Latest realesed funny cars? And how about Monograms 1/24 funny cars,are they good for building and update with extra detail. Fred

Hi, The level of this build,is almost beyond what you can imagine and think of as a modelbuilder. The precision in every detail and also the knowledge of reference to assembly the chassie. To what it is. In my eyes: this is art. Thank you so much for the inspiration this is for me.

Your Fairmont build is absolutely a huge inspiration for me to get through my own builds.Your update´s is just what i need. Thanks Scott

Hi Guys. I was on a Modelcar contest in Stockholm,Sweden on April 5th. I will post some of the build here in this topic. If you want to see more you can click on the link. http://public.fotki.com/froudi/modelcar-meetings/ccm-2014stockholm/ if that does´nt work you can visit www.fotki.com and search for member "froudi" in the search button. Hope that you enjoy this, This is a Mike Gradis 1/8 scale resin body. It has been chopped. This Corvette is a slammer,just the body and wheels and blackpainted windows,Pretty cool,i´ll think. There is more to see in my fotki album and many more contests from other years here in Sweden. My fotki ID is: froudi

So great,thanks for the inspiration. I´m interested in future picture´s,when you are at the electricial detail stage of this build. When you make details on your lathe,how do you do when it comes to make radius curves, if you know what i mean. Super Clean work, Fred

Hello, Does anybody know if the new AMT 1960 Ranchero "Ohio George" have separated lenses for the headlight in the kit,or if it is like the 61 issue."molded in chrome"???? Fred

If you are going to build a chassie from scratch with front and rear suspension i would say that a jig is a must. Because it is very difficult to get the wheels in the right place, i have a topic in this forum called "Duster pro mod build" that you could look at. It is not so much yet but you can see a little about it. For the first you should mock-up the body height from ground and then the wheelbase you want. Then you have to measure a lot inside the body and start to build up all the distance between ground and the lowest part. You can use some clay to fix the wheels and some rods between the body and the ground. then you could lift off the body and start to take measurments of the wheelbase mock-up And ofcourse do a drawing of your chassie if you want. I´ll hope you understand my explanation,take a look at my topic and i´ll think you know where you start the operation. Fred

Thank you all, It is so cold here in Sweden right now, so your feedback warm me up very much. I hope that the Comet will inspire you, Many of you liked the paint and i can tell you,that it is done with a Volkswagen Yellow metallic Spray can and also the red faded paint in the rear of the body is Red transparent Taillight paint from a spray can. Before i did the faded area i hold my breath,because it can very easily get paint on areas that you dont wont it on. I got lucky because i hit the paint exactly where i wanted.(that was luck) It is more control if you do it with an airbrush.But in this build it is done with a spray can. I can also tell you,that, When i got the body painted it all went down in the kit box and was there for two years before i went on with it again. thats always a problem,i have to much ideas of what i want to build. Thanks Fredrik

Very nice, It is a very beutiful funny car,.looks like a mean machine. Fred

Hi, Hope you like this build, It is a Jo-Han Mercury Comet with a modified interior with wheeltubs and Competition resins Wrinkle wall slicks. Also a modified chassie in the front with a tube frame. My own Headlight lenses ,Slixx decals. This build was meant to be more detailed ,but something on the way did´nt go as the plan. I decided to finished it and this is the result. And i dont know How correct the build is from the original car,but this is what i could do of it.

the idea is great,and i like it a lot. Fred

I have googled this build and find and follow this build before i had joined this community because i think this build is going to be one of the best drag builds i have seen. The realism in this build is so close to the real thing,so i must say that just looking at the building pictures,makes me feel good. I´ll have two Fairmont Kits myself from you Scott,and your build is a huge inspiration for me.Thank you. Question: Does any decal manufacturer produce any Fairmont Drag decals? I have bought the slixx decal sheet fore "Glidden Pro Stock Omni" just to see if anything was useble for the Glidden Fairmont.?? Fred

No Secrets, For the symmetric roll bar i always start with the rear rollbar where the highest point is. and always check the center of the jig,and always bend the styren strips with a sharp flame from gas burner. Practice on some scrap pieces first so you get to know how the strips reacts to the heat. You can mark the strip where you want the bend and make one or two quick moves through the flame just so that the stripe becomes soft in a small area. Then bend it to the angle you should have ,and hold for a few seconds until set,if you want to adjust some few degrees you can do it without the heat. I have done this over a candle flame, and it works but it's harder because the heat is blurry and you soften areas that you dont want a bend on. the sharp flame from a Gas burner heaten up a very limited area. It is much easier to work with. My burner fills up with the same as cigarette lighter gas If you want to do two bars with a bend who have exactly the same angle,you do the same as above but you hold two styrene strips at the same time. or you could use a adjustable angle tool,see the pictures. if you use the angle tool,you can keep the styrene strip fixed to the angle and then heat and bend it to the angle, (as a template). And do not forget all measuring,without that your lost, take extra length at each end and start from the middle, sometimes the bend are fine but in the wrong place, then you have an adjustment I´ll hope you find this explanation useful. You know i´m a Swede,but i´ll try my best to be understandable. Fred Two Strips at the same time. Strips are bent at the same time on freehand,two identical bends. Here i keep the strip in preparatory before tha heat. Direct after the heat,bend it and hold to set.