jbwelda

well, and sorry to belabor the obvious, i think the motors are different. and probably some supporting parts as well.

great idea! i like the concept of swapping very expensive motors into econo racers, total sleepers.

a shot glass is an excellent idea (thats from a more or less non-drinker mind you). not only can it be used for its intended function, it can be used as a paint mixing glass, a thinner container for short term on-the-table use, maybe a brush holder if its deep enough, all kinds of modelling applications. and with a mcm logo it would be a killer. hes right, a million dollar idea. i want one of those coffee mugs too, but probably wont be at SLC unfortunately.

man i am impressed at those 60s build ups! a quick dunk in warm water with soap and they are going to be looking sweet! look like good build quality too from your photos! and that volvo motor! wow imagine that in a Big Drag or something!

i saw that this thread mentioned the chrysler turbine and i couldnt help but think of Bill's obsessive as it were rebuild of that kit! that is a fantastic model and it was pretty fantastic following along as he posted as he was building it! it really sets the standard in my mind.

>Mysterion show cars have some detailed internals such as the camshaft which is kinda ironic because wasnt it the mysterion with its twin heavy motors, that didnt have internals to reduce the weight and strain on chassis?

you want detailed? then check out the Fujimi "Enthusiasts Series" cars, particularly the Porsche 356 variants. i bet there are close to 500 parts. seriously. they are the epitome of detailed and just to make it more fun, they dont really fit together all that well so they require lots of fiddling! instructions for ultra rare Carrera quad cam engine assembly: heres a shot of someones excellent buildup; note the engine on the engine stand, also included in the kit. these kits came with a variety of body styles: speedster, roadster, coupe and convertable i believe, and different trim sets. one killer kit in more than one sense!

if you do what Mark says with Zap brand super glue, you will have the same result. clean the tip regularly and always double cap it (the inner cap and the outer cap). and keep it in the freezer like mopar says. the problem is if its humid where you live it reacts with the CA and hardens it, so in the freezer and using the caps properly keep the moisture out.

also al's resin (sorry i am spacing on actual name of the firm...Ma's Resin maybe?) sells these cool sheets of bolt heads, stud heads and all kinds of hardware in resin for very nice price. i use them for 1/8 mostly but there are many that are small enough for 1/24 work.

as to why pipes are sometimes a real snakes nest, you want the ideal header to scavenge the exhaust gasses from the combustion chamber by active sucking it out if possible. that can involve a lot of complicated routing to make the exhaust path as smooth as possible but also creating the scavenging effect. and you want all cylinders to do it the same, so you end up with requiring equal length pipes which in tight quarters involves a lot of bending and getting length where you can. there is a whole science to header design, though it might be debatable whether some or even most of the examples shown here adhere to it vs just for looks. for sure those ramchargers pipes had purpose in the scavenging area probably working in conjunction with those extreme risers on the intake.

you know, the thing not really being stressed here is that these people the OP mentioned were out there representing models, and modelers, to the public, or at least the auto show public. and evidently turning them off to the cars and the hobby. i know at the shows i work at we stand around and watch that the kids (mostly but you would never figure...) dont grab the models and if they do gently remind them that the big sign in front of them says DO NOT TOUCH. we (or at least i and i see everyone else doing the same) are always happy to hear comments or answer questions as best we can. in other words encourage those who come up to become engaged in the hobby, maybe bring a model next year (or tomorrow if its early in the show), encourage kids to build and even give them a model sometimes. seems a real waste to have some sour dawgs behind the table shooing everyone away with their attitude. you can be sure not many situations like that exist, most times you will find everyone willing to talk about this car or that car or all the old models you have at home you havent opened since you were a kid but they were a bunch from this second grade company called jojan or something like that and youre thinking of throwing out the whole lot just to regain the space they are taking up and might even pay someone to come around and collect them out of your life...ah, but now i digress

dont underestimate the allure of that F1 car! its looking great and i thank you for that tutorial on the doors. opening doors remain a mystery to me and your photos showed me a lot of things like how those hinges actually work!

nice paint and clean build! so i take it you didnt run into any gotchas in the assembly?

and k&r it is, or at least sorta: and by the way i have an Auto-Art 1/18 diecast of an XJ-13 as well. i just had no idea it was from the sixties! the styling made me think it was from the 1990s or even bang up to date! this new found fact will make it fit in much better with my collection of 1/18 vintage jags, Ctypes, Dtypes, etc: oh and by the way, yours compares very favorably, and in fact might even be nicer, than this 1/18 highly regarded and reviewed Auto-Art example. and of course the detail level is easier to replicate in 1/18 than 1/24 for congrats on a job well done!

gregg, do you ever build anything you say you are going to build? just wondering because you seem to say that a lot but somehow i end up missing the finished product. ok then.

1966? man that car was WAY ahead of the design curve if that truly was when this car was built! excellent job in a tough medium. makes me want to consider the 1/24 D-type i have in white metal. i forget the maker of the kit but its full detail and weighs a ton. ive had it on the shelf for many years and now i have to pull it off the shelf and check it out closer!

man that looks great! i like what you did with the intake trumpets, and the whole thing looks right.

thats a wild looking bug, for sure!

thanks for commenting folks, i appreciate it and glad it rings some bells with you folks! i might try a small drivers side only windshield but i was thinking more of a cut down full width one...we will see as the second version progresses!

If you have been following this in the workbench section, its probably old news, but if not, take a look! its a resin austin body actually sourced from a revell germany bmw 3/15 ps (as i learned from the workbench thread, thanks for the info!) which had its fenders cut off and a couple of other modifications. the body sits on a narrowed and lengthened (in the rear) frame from the roth tweedy pie (2, actually) with a small hemi from the ala kart retool of a few years ago. most running gear was from the tweedy pie as was the grille shell, and the interior has scratchbuilt flocked floorboard and seat that i happened on that fit perfectly. front wheels are halibrand with knock off from reps and mins of maryland, and rears are from the tweedy pie 2, both hit with metalizer magnesium and buffed on the high spots. slicks are the killer racemasters from the double dragster i think and the front skinnies came out of the parts box. i scratchbuilt a few little pieces like the rear torsion bars, polished aluminum adjustable driveshaft with metal U-joints (that ended up being slightly crooked somehow after i glued it in! ), dashboard, steering column and box, etc. the wicked headers are from reps and mins of maryland as are the finned brake drums and some other parts. you cant see it with the body on but there is a really kool looking fuel tank from the old Wild Dream model and some, but not all, underchassis wiring and plumbing. i wanted to keep it simple on this one (so i could actually get it done!) paint is tamiya mica red with a red clear overcoat and then a couple coats of modelmaster clear. i should have polished it, but i did not because it looked pretty nice right from the can. thanks to tamiya for that! theres some kool little details if you look close: blue dots in the taillights and yellow running light bulbs inside the headlight buckets and some others scattered around. some things are never truly "finished" and thats how this sits: i want to add a windscreen of some type still and some aircraft style seat belts and a couple of other touches, and glue the floorboard to the body shell so it will lift off in one piece, but for now, its on the shelf. i am now planning a companion with full fenders and stock/mild kustom configuration but i havent thought it through yet, still experimenting with wheel/tyre combinations and stance and body modifications. but i want it to be sort of a british hot rod (that never existed no doubt), so we will see where that leads. many thanks as always for looking! i appreciate your interest and will gladly address any questions or comments!

ok reading through this thread has me a little confused. is the ford pickup the same as the one that was issued by AMT with the go-kart (or triumph motorcycle as i recall)? if so please post a link to it here...i didnt see it above or maybe i missed it. (edit: never mind, answered my own question...the pickup with the kart was a 63 f-100, not a 60!) by the way the go kart is available from reps and mins of maryland and if i had access to imageshack at the moment i would post a pic of my build of one. its a super nice little kit. now i need the pickup to carry the kart! thanks in advance!

im sorry i dont know any but i sure wish more casters would cover the japan domestic and otherwise market. there are a ton of kool little kars we never even know about over here.

i have found that a coat of dullcote, either brushed or sprayed for larger surfaces, does miracles. even makes that "flat aluminum" look flat. one thing though, im not sure if i got this from James Bond or what but i much prefer to stir my bottle paint vs shaking it. i got coffee stir sticks at smart & final and they were cheap and work great for sanding sticks etc too. its amazing how much thick paint (the color actually) is gummed up down at the bottom of one of those model master bottles. even with a bb or two in the jar (you know about that right, for use when shaking?) most of the color doesnt get dissolved by just random shaking. but get in there with a stick beforehand and you really mix up your paint! problem i have with metallic paints is they de-mix too quickly: if you manage to get the part painted with the first dip into the paint your golden, but you can see the particles swimming around separating from the thinner right in front of your eyes! but then the dullcote comes to the rescue by how it unifies surfaces miraculously!

thats the beauty of the mini mite and now the stylus, besides the cordless feature, they run a lot slower and are a lot more controllable than the regular AC dremels. they are two speed and i use mostly the high speed to grind on plastic and it doesnt go so fast to start melting the plastic unless you really get carried away. its the koolest tool on my bench! if you get a chance you should try one sometime, mine has really saved the build a few times and ive become pretty spoiled by having the minimite around!

hey come check me in the "under glass" section! i gotta take a nice portrait first though so it might be a few hours! meanwhile, i am thinking about my next project (after i clear my bench of a couple of long term dust collectors). another of the same car but with the fenders and running boards intact, and a lotus twin cam motor. lowered as low as i can of course. not sure what exactly to do to make the body look a little kooler but i am planning out some surgery. we will see...